Tiburon T4N - Stripped Threads

[Wally15]

 Anybody got a fix for stripped threads on a Tib T4N? I recently purchased a 113H with the narrow Tib frame off fleabay. Old style 113H, burgundy plates with the easy access drags, but I was more interested in the narrow Tib frame.
Started taking it apart, primarily to lube it and upgrade the drags, but the two screws on the bottom were frozen, and the head of one broke off without much force being applied. Enough was sticking out that I could finish removing it with a pair of Kleins. As best I can tell, it looks like the two screws used were too long and were sticking into the reel clamp post hole cavity. When the clamp posts were installed, they bent and distorted these screws and damaged the Tib threads to the point that the correct length screws won't hold. 
Obviously the seller ain't happy that I'm sending it back to him. I don't necessarily want a refund, I just want it fixed. My tap and die set doesn't have a 5-40 tap, plus I was reluctant to go buy one and try to fix it. And I don't have a lot of experience with drilling and tapping aluminum.
I've never seen a heli-coil that small. Drill and tap oversize?
Suggestions??
Wally

[STRIPER LOU]

Depending on the damage you might be outta luck on this one. I had the same problem on a newell YTS. The two very bottom screws in the base were bent due to the clamp screws being cranked in. The screw holes were distorted and couldn't be retapped. One of the gents on
BD says as long as its the very 2 bottom screws, he just puts the screws in with epoxy just for looks. He claimed it really dosen't compromise the strength or integrity of the reel as long as the rest of the screws are OK. I haven't tried it for a fix but this guy has been working on reels for a long time and he knows his stuff.
Its tough to make everything perfect but for practicality you may have to settle for second best sometimes unless your rich!!!
...................Lou

[alantani]

ok, so the threads are jacked up, but at least you got the screws out, right?  for a quick fix, you could use a strip of copper (aluminum from a soda can is too light.  the copper strips used by penn as dog springs seem to work the best. slide it into the screw hole, trim off the excess and run the screw in and it will usually hold. 

[Wally15]

ok, so the threads are jacked up, but at least you got the screws out, right?  for a quick fix, you could use a strip of copper (aluminum from a soda can is too light.  the copper strips used by penn as dog springs seem to work the best. slide it into the screw hole, trim off the excess and run the screw in and it will usually hold. 

I decided to keep the reel and try to fix it. What if I filled the damaged holes with J-B Weld, let it harden, then drill and tap back to 5-40. Anybody ever tried this? Any reason why it won't work, assuming I do my drilling and tapping correctly?

Wally

[foakes]

Hi Wally --

If it were mine, I would just put a strip of copper in the hole -- trim it off -- then thread a new screw in there -- and be done. 

It will hold very well until you decide to disassemble the reel for service in the future.

The JBWeld can be tried -- but probably not as good a fix as the copper strip.  The JB will fill the hole, you can try and re-tap -- and it will work OK.  But not as well as the softer copper metal conforming to the hole and screw thread -- metal on metal on metal.  The JB will not be as strong.  Been there, done that -- got the shirt.

There are other alternatives -- but I do not know if they are small enough -- such as Keenserts, or heli-coil.  McMaster Carr has Keenserts.

Anytime I start to mess around too much with the holes in a Tib or Accurate frame -- there is a chance of expanding or blowing out the side -- copper strip is quick, cheap, invisible, and can be used multiple times.

Just my opinion.

Good luck -- and show us your finished project -- whichever way you decide to go.

Best,

Fred

[borchcl]

McMaster-Carr also has Heli-coil inserts down to 2-56. Most other industrial supply houses or auto supply shops should have them as well. Like Fred said, "you got options" but the copper strips work cheapest.
Regards,
Charlie

[Wally15]

Hi Wally --

If it were mine, I would just put a strip of copper in the hole -- trim it off -- then thread a new screw in there -- and be done. 

Good luck -- and show us your finished project -- whichever way you decide to go.
Best,
Fred

Well, I fixed it. Took Fred and Alan's advice and went the soft copper route. Didn't want to use my only spare 114 flat dog spring, so I cut off a piece of 4 AWG and flattened a strand with a hammer. Worked great, plus I now have a many-lifetime supply of spares. 
Second problem was finding the proper screw lengths. The two bottom screws in a Tib T4N frame only have about 5 threads total because of the post clamp hole (.17"width less a .04 bevel /.025" thread pitch). Maximum total length of the handle side screw was .585"; .485" for the non-handle side. My supply of 5-40 screws is limited, so I had to modify what I had. Part # 39-9, handle side post screw, is .625" long. I CAREFULLY ground off .040", cleaned the threads, screwed it in with the copper strip. Worked great.
Repeated the same for the non-handle side. Only difference is I used a 32-17 handle side stand screw (.530" length) and ground off .045" to get the .485" I needed.
Fortunately, because of it's location at the post clamp, this area should have the least flex and distortion under load.
Is there a Penn list of screws by size, pitch (TPI), and length published anywhere? I found 3 different lengths for a 39-9 screw (non-handle side stand, handle side post and non-handle side post).
Didn't take any pictures, but here's one of my Redneck engineered "T4N thread repair system".
If anyone wants a lifetime supply of soft copper for thread inserts, PM me your address and I'll send you a 2" piece of 4 AWG. That's about 40" of wire. I first tried the ground wire from a piece of 14-2, but it's much too large when flattened.
Supposed to get to 79 here in S GA today. Spring is less than 3 weeks away. I'm getting a twitch in my right arm!
Wally

[foakes]

Good thinking on that wire fix, Wally!

Never thought of that.

Copper works so well in snugging up a screw hole -- because it is soft and malleable enough to enforce a solid contact between the screw and the hole threads.

Same principle applies when repairing a loose door hinge screw where it attaches to the jamb casing.  I am sure all of the wooden matchsticks or wood splints I inserted in door screw holes over the years -- are still there and holding well.  Old carpenter trick.

Thanks for sharing your solution.

Best,

Fred

[Bryan Young]

1 5,

Good job.  Glad you got it sorted out.

[Wally15]

Good thinking on that wire fix, Wally!

Never thought of that.

Thanks for sharing your solution.

Best,

Fred

"If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants"  - Isaac Newton
Wally