Solid vs Hollow braid

Started by fIsHsTiiCkS, March 10, 2015, 05:47:02 AM

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fIsHsTiiCkS

Hey guys,

This is a question for my fellow braid guys. I have always used solid braid to a fluorocarbon topshot. Recently, I was talking to a buddy about switching to hollow instead, as the connection is better and thinner, from what he says atleast. What do you guys think? What advantages and disadvantages have you noticed?

doradoben

Hollow is more expensive than solid. 130 lb. hollow usually costs the least.

fIsHsTiiCkS

Quote from: doradoben on March 10, 2015, 08:58:26 AM
Hollow is more expensive than solid. 130 lb. hollow usually costs the least.

I know the pricing difference, due to the need for high strand count in hollow, but if its worth the price then I will pull the trigger on it.

Bryan Young

I'd say if what you are doing works, then don't mess with it...just my opinion.

Hollow and solid have slightly different characteristics when splicing.  The joint area becomes very stiff and many don't like it because it doesn't always sit nicely on the spool.  It depends on the length of serving.  You also need new tools to do hollow splices...so is it worth your extra time in preparation?
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Keta

#4
Hollow negatives,
Hollow is expensive, even at my price.   (I'll PM you the price to compare to others)
Splicing needles are expensive

Hollow plusses,
Hollow lays flatter on the spool
Hollow can be spliced
Splicing is "cool"....;O)
You can splice different weights of hollow into one line, my "kite reels" (Penn 50SW and 70VS) have 200# on the spool, with a bunch of 130# on top of that with a 100 yards of 200# on top.
L2L connections are somewhat smoother with a spliced loop (but not enough to matter)


I have all solid on some reels (my deep water halibut, kokanee, salmon and steelhead reels), all hollow on some (my cow YFT and live bait reels) and solid spliced on top of hollow depending on the use of the reel.

JB 40# hollow is expensive to make, if it's price was in line with hollow 60# I'd use more of it but as of now I use 60# for 30# to 50# topshots.  I don't use much 80#  hollow due to price, but I have a lot of 130# and 200# on my larger reels.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

BMITCH

Jason, I'm also venturing into the hollow braid world. With the kind of fishing I do,off of party boats in the fall for tuna, the hollow as my backing is looking like a nice way to go. I'm in the process of making a serving jig and just recently got the rigging needles. This is a learning process which I think once I get it down it will be a better connection to the braid. As far as cost is concerned...yeah a little more money but I think a lot mors confidence in the connection. Just my 2 cents worth.
Bob
luck is the residue of design.

Keta

#6
Quote from: BMITCH on March 10, 2015, 04:11:15 PM
.....As far as cost is concerned...yeah a little more money but I think a lot mors confidence in the connection. Just my 2 cents worth.
Bob

I never looked at the price difference until I started selling JB line, when I did I was shocked....especially for 40# hollow  :o.  I still use hollow for most of my reels over 40#.  


One word of warning, coated Spectra does not make good topshots unless your goal is long line releases.   A friend/competitor sold a bunch of topshots built with quality but coated line, they failed and it cost him business.  I picked up 2500 yards of his 40# coated hollow line and used it to fill my smaller reels with.  Splicing and making loops out of it works as good as non coated.   I would buy Power Pro Ace Hollow line anytime for filling reels, at retail price too.



Another 'tip" forget about breaking strength, use the line diameter as your guide.  30# and under can (will) cut you to the bone, I know this from experience and only use it for reels I fish for kokanee and trout.  40# is a good size but far too much $$$, 60# works best for me for under 50# topshots,  I have some 80# and use it for 60# and 80# topshots.  Most of my spectra is 130#, I use it for 80#, 100# and 130# topshots, the 200# is used for 130#, 150# and 200# topshots and my downrigger "cables".  I have some 300# and 1000# I use for other things.
[/quote]
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

bill19803

if you want to  check breaking  strength of  spectra   check  Paulusjustfishing.com   lots and lots of data  there. Just an observation   we  tend  to over engineer our  rigging   strength   wise    No   truly  special tools  are needed to  work hollow if  you use a  4  foot lenght of  ss  fishing  wire    say   25 lb   bent in half  as a  pulling tool.  This does  let  you get a  bigger    fluoro  test into a  given   spectra   100 into   60 is often possible (most   60 break  close to  100)   using the  wire method.  You  can  also polish a ball  end on  flouro  till  its real  smooth  and  with a steady  hand insert  it into  spectra   with no  tools  at all. For  serving    3   10  turn  uni  pulled  super tight   1/4 apart  gets the job  done.
With  any insertion   whether  braid into  braid  or   mono into braid  a  very  rapid  decrease in  diameter    will  promote   spectra failure   appx1-2 inches  above   end of insertion. However   we are mortals   and  I  dont think we   can   apply   80 lbs of   drag  where  failure  might occur. lol

BMITCH

Bill19803, right you are I'm personally not having issues with breaking strength. My issues are with the union of braid to mono. I'm not real fond of knot to knot methods due to their profile. I'm more concerned with streamlining the connection. Splicing looks mighty appealing!
luck is the residue of design.

day0ne

Quote from: Bryan Young on March 10, 2015, 01:31:33 PM
I'd say if what you are doing works, then don't mess with it...just my opinion.

Hollow and solid have slightly different characteristics when splicing.  The joint area becomes very stiff and many don't like it because it doesn't always sit nicely on the spool.  It depends on the length of serving.  You also need new tools to do hollow splices...so is it worth your extra time in preparation?

Two things. You don't serve hollow splices unless you are talking about mono/fluoro to hollow. For me loop to loop works better anyway and makes more sense. The other thing is you don't need any special tools unless, once again, you are talking about mono/fluoro to hollow, and you can do that without any special tools.
David


"Lately it occurs to me: What a long, strange trip it's been." - R. Hunter

Keta

The tools make it much faster though.

I usually have 5-10 L2L topshots in the weights I'm fishing with me at all times.  They are fast to change out on the water.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

fIsHsTiiCkS

Quote from: BMITCH on March 10, 2015, 04:11:15 PM
Jason, I'm also venturing into the hollow braid world. With the kind of fishing I do,off of party boats in the fall for tuna, the hollow as my backing is looking like a nice way to go. I'm in the process of making a serving jig and just recently got the rigging needles. This is a learning process which I think once I get it down it will be a better connection to the braid. As far as cost is concerned...yeah a little more money but I think a lot mors confidence in the connection. Just my 2 cents worth.
Bob

Thanks for all the replies guys!

Bob, I am thinking that if it works better then in then long run it will be worth the investment. I am really looking at it more for 80lb Hollow. I just want a better connection when I start stepping up to high drag ranges. I tie the FG knot and a modified Albright knot for solid briad and it hasn't failed yet, but I get slipping sometimes that I have to retie before I can throw another bait out there. I fish mostly for yellows, yft and Mahi so my tackle takes a beating.

I know that solid works, the real question is if the connection is better between hollow and flouro vs solid and flouro.

Lee, I did not know you sold JB line. What is the diameter of the 40, 60, 80, solid and hollow. Shoot me a PM if you want. Spooling most of my reels this season.

Shark Hunter

Keep us posted on this Bob. I bought a reel that has 600 yards of JB Hollow that is new. I want to use it as backing and splice it to 130 lb mono, but I am scared because I don't know what I'm doing. I can watch video's all day, but I need to see a serve done right if front of me to know I'm doing it right.
Life is Good!

fIsHsTiiCkS

Quote from: Shark Hunter on March 11, 2015, 02:32:00 AM
Keep us posted on this Bob. I bought a reel that has 600 yards of JB Hollow that is new. I want to use it as backing and splice it to 130 lb mono, but I am scared because I don't know what I'm doing. I can watch video's all day, but I need to see a serve done right if front of me to know I'm doing it right.

Looks like we will all be learning this season

doradoben