squidder gears issue

[Alto Mare]

Not sure if a one piece frame would have saved it, but I know the flexing definitely helped it. A custom spacer from Alan C does wonders there when cranking the handle under stress.
It doesn't matter how strong the post is on the bridgeplate, when cranking under enough pressure, that post will always flex, that's when the main gears get tilted.
Alan C resource did come up with a good solution and I know that the custom spacer helps quite a bit, but I always give credit where credit is due.
John ( johndtuttle ) mentioned that same spacer, over by the Tank, that was a while ago.
We have some very smart members here, taking bits of information here and there has helped us come up with some great improvements on our fishing reels.

Also, Penn was aware on this, I have some 3-117 bridgeplates with a flat piece of metal welded on it at the same height as the gear sleeve ratchet, this was placed there as an attempt to keep the main gear aligned with the pinion when under stress.
The custom spacer would do the same, but in an easier and cheaper way.

With that said, I caught a nice size Shark with a stock Jigmaster, with brass gear and frame posts. This was a couple of years ago, I have a pic here somewhere.
The gears looked good afterwards. So, your fishing style also has something to do with it.

Sal

[otghoyt]

You're already getting gears but for future reference when the spool engagement slot on the pinion gets rounded out like yours are...it wobbles on the shaft and rides up and down all over the main and yoke.  I change out my pinions at the slightest indication of the slot getting rounded out. 

I see that on my reels when I free spool anchovies for tuna.  Get bit, count three and slam it into gear.  A season of 40 pound Albies will kill pinions and spools even on 3/0s in exactly that same place.  I think I responded in like manner to another question like this about a hard cranking Squidder. Where am I anyway?