Rod tip replacement question

[esgeo]

Hello.  I just joined the community a few weeks ago and have a question.  I am new to the business of rod and reel repair, so I figure this one will be pretty simple, but wanted to get some good advice.  I appreciate anyone's time in offering some guidance!

A few days ago I picked up a Daiwa Apollo 1672 6'6, 20-40#, 8-16oz lure weight, extra heavy conventional rod at an estate sale for $5.  The rod looked to be in reasonable shape, other than some damage to the foam at the butt, compression of a few of the aluminum threads on the reel seat, and a rough groove worst possible spot on the tip.  The rest of the guides are undamaged and still solidly wrapped on the blank.

I removed the tip today using a lighter, so that I could measure the diameter of the tip and order a replacement.  Much of the outermost layer of fiberglass beneath the tip is quite frayed, and there is thread wrapped at the base of where it is frayed.  It is my assumption that this wrap at the base of the tip is to keep the fiberglass fray from extending further down the rod.

So, I am somewhat at a loss of what to do next.  I was thinking there is likely some sort of fiberglass repair epoxy I could coat the frayed part of the rod with, let this cure and smooth it down with some sort of sandpaper, then measure diameter and procure a new tip to attach.  Another option would be to cut the tip shorter (probably below the wrap) and attach a slightly larger diameter tip, but I prefer not to do this.  Also, given the nature of the fiberglass being somewhat compromised, are there recommendations for what epoxy one would use in this situation to secure the new tip?

I figure this is a pretty common issue, and although there is not a lot at stake financially, I would be grateful to get any feedback/advice on how to proceed.  Thank you very much.  I've attached a few photos.     

[Newell Nut]

Looks as though it may have been overheated but whatever the cause I would cut that part off clean. Take a razor and trim the wraps back to where you could install a new tip top. I assume you know that the measurement is in 64's for the tip size and you order by ring size that you want and tip diameter.

[Bryan Young]

Concur that the tip tube has been overheated.  Many cheaper method of attaching rod tips was the use of epoxy and unfortunately, in order to remove those tips, you have to get the tip hot.  This has the unfortunate disadvantage is that it also melts the bonding epoxy of the rod that results in what you see. 

Based on this, I would unwrap the rod tip decorative wrap and cut the blank (I use a file while others use a fine hacksaw) until you get too a section that is unaffected by the heat of removing the tip.

I know this is not what you want to hear, but it's the best thing to do.

To do it absolutely right though, you should unwrap all of the guides and re-space the guides based on the movement of the tip, but being a $5 rod, I would just replace the tip.  As Newell Nut indicated, the tube size is based on 64th of an inch.  I cannot recall but some manufactures will assume that the tip size is based on the tip of the rod while other indicate the diameter based on the edge of the tub when the tip is mounted.  I learned that the hard way.

[esgeo]

Thanks to both of y'all for the prompt responses.  I unwrapped and indeed there was no damage below the tip- lesson learned.

In retrospect, do you think I could have heated it in a more controlled fashion (like conduction from a lab heating plate set at say 150 degrees F) and the tip would have detached from the blank without damaging the epoxy in the blank?  The lighter method I saw on youtube definitely seemed a little haphazard.     

At least now I have a really cheap blank to learn to reposition guides on  .  But for now I think I'm just gonna put the tip on the remaining blank (I lost about 1.5") and leave the rest alone.  Much appreciate it!  Eric 

[Bryan Young]

I normally use a light to heat the ring and let the metal thermal transfer properties work.  I heat, wait, then try to twist the tip, and repeat until it loosens. 

A controlled temp device would be far better for sure...but I'm not sure what temp would be best.

I know guys who use boiling water that seems to work in they have used thermal cement to bond the top to the rod, but if it's epoxy, well, you need to get it hot enough to soften the epoxy, which is also about the same temp to loosen the blank's epoxy.

[Keta]

I'd cut it first then unwrap it but either way works.

[Dominick]

I'd cut it first then unwrap it but either way works.

I'd bite it off.    Dominick

[Shark Hunter]

You mean like the stapler method we discussed before.
Take your teeth out, insert rod tip, and staple.

[Dominick]

You mean like the stapler method we discussed before.
Take your teeth out, insert rod tip, and staple.

Ha Ha Ha  Dominick