Arbor Press

[Tightlines667]

I finally purchased a 1 Ton Arbor press.  Went with the Dayton from Grainger.  

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/DAYTON-Press-4Z328

Paid less buying the only locally available one, then shipping out a cheaper model.  Now I need to figure out what accessories I need for it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a set of round flat dies to buy?  I need 3 sets of dies for pressing cam housing through and out of bridges and sideplates, while supporting the relatively thin alum sideplate material, and For the 130s, I figure I need...
one with a 1 7/8" outter diameter (to press with) and a second with a 2 1/8" inner dismeter and at least 2 1/2 deep to support the outside of part being pressed.  Then I will need the reverse (1 7/8" inner diameter/2 1/2 " deep, and 2-2 1/8" outter diameter (maybe use the same one?), to press the part back in place.  I could actually get by with just 2 dies, since the bridge will work to support the side plate when pressing it back in place.  I will need 2 similar, but slightly smaller sets for the 80 then 50/30 size reels as well.

I would also like to invest in a quality punch set for pressing out (or in) pins, frozen screws, bearings, and the like.  

Thirdly, I would like to get a better quality punch/cutter set preferably with a lower support for punching/cutting Delron, Teflon, Carbon Fiber washers.  Having one that can cut both outter and inner diameters would be ideal.  

I apoligize if my machining terminology is off a bit, this is relatively new territory for me.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Alto Mare]

That tool will come handy. Do not secure the handle, I like it to be movable so I could always set it at the correct angle.
Make sure you bolt the press to the bench, I tried it loose and it doesn't do, it will need to be bolted down. Also, you will need a 2' piece of pipe as for an extension, the handle that comes with the press is worthless.
Its a nice tool I'm enjoying mine, good luck with it.

I'm not a machinist but use my imagination. To press the bearing in, I placed the plate on a thick towel and used a piece of wood dowel of the same diameter as the bearing, pressing it in was a snap.Custom cutters will cost you from $100 to $150 each, but those would be top of the line, made by a machinist. Mayhew has individual cutters, I believe they're around $70 each.
I have a plastic cutting board in place of the round metal disc, those come handy when cutting washers, even better than wood.

Report back after you use it and let us know how you like it.

[Tightlines667]

Just used it to press out a corroded bridge, by pressing lightly on the drive shaft bearings/bushings from the inside.  I think I might end up making 2 custom jigs to support the side plates, and just use a hardened socket of the correct OD for loosing frozen bridge assemblies.  I still want the correct size puches, and dies for pressing out/in cam housings when corrosion is really bad though.  I think I might mount it to a solid piece of wood that I can clsmp to the benchtop to conserve space.  I really need to build a smaller side workbench to mount the arbor and a drill press to, and have slots under it to store parts.  I'm afraid that project will have to wait until after Ahi season, when buisness slows down though.

I also used my el cheapo punch set to cut a few laminated CF washers.  This set had trouble fully punching the Delron, even after sharpening.  Gonba need an extension, and would prefer a better cutting set, that does inner and outter cuts simultaneously.  It worked pretty good on the CF though.

[Alto Mare]

Any jigs you make, make sure you post it here so we could follow.

[LTM]

John,

In regards to the hardened sockets; they are typically called "impact" sockets designed for heavy duty use. I started out buying "Snap On" brand and ended up with a Chinese set that performed very well. I used the Chinese exclusively at work (Diesel mechanic for Los Angeles bus system) daily when I was a mechanic for over 8 years. They may work out for you instead of a "costly" set of name brand.

FYI,

Leo

[Tiddlerbasher]

I'm with Sal on bolting down the press - unless you want a very heavy lump of metal falling on your foot . As regards small pin punches I just use an appropriately sized bolt/ machine screw. A combination of a small and large sockets for pressing out A/R bearings etc. For cutting delrin /acetal/ teflon and cf washers I use a set of these





The punch heads simply screw onto the handle - which has a centering pin. Cut the outer diameter first - change to the small head - the centering pin can be aligned to the 'dent' in the washer. The handle has been designed to be wacked with a mallet.





I found it would frequently shatter the acetal/delrin washers - so I made an adapter for the press.





It is simply a length of 5/8" studding (depends on your punches) with 2 nuts (locked together). A centering pin was fitted by drilling the hole .1mm undersize. Then heating the stud in the oven (don't tell the wife ) dropping in the pin and allowing to cool. It is obviously important to get the length of the pin right and the position of the 2 nuts - but it wasn't difficult.



The proof of the pudding - delrin and teflon washers nicely centered.



cf/ teflon is the easiest to cut - it's just an easy pull on the bar. But delrin is tough - use an extension tube. I can just about cut 1mm delrin without the extension tube but it's an effort.

[Alto Mare]

 Chris, thanks for posting this, that handle could be hit with a mallet, that tells me its made from solid steel, am I right? If so, we could probably cut it lo length, so we wouldn't have to make the adopter, what do you think?
You must be a machinist, you always come up with some good stuff.

Sal

[Tiddlerbasher]

Sal it is made from hardened steel (some sort of tool steel). A hacksaw wouldn't touch it - I didn't try it on a lathe with TCT or cobalt blades, I don't think HSS would work. I only have a small modelling lathe - 'tener cojones' as they say Similar sets may be made from a different steel. The adapter was pretty easy to make once I found out the thread. Accurately centering the pin is the hardest part, you need a lathe or get lucky!. The pin on the original handle is sprung loaded - I may have another crack at this (sprung loaded this time).

Not a machinist Sal, but thanks for the complement , I just come from a broad electrical and mechanical engineering background - and I love a challenge

[Alto Mare]

Can't stop there Chris , what's the size of that bolt.  It looks like a standard 1/2"

[Tiddlerbasher]

Sal it's a standard 5/8" 14 tpi BSF thread. I just checked my hacksaw blade (that I tried) oops some sharp teeth help A new blade is cutting just fine. I'll finish sawing it tomorrow and face it off on the mini-lathe. No need to make a new adapter

[Alto Mare]

 ...thanks Chris!

[Tightlines667]

Thanks Chris!

I have a similar set of punches, and I like your approach to making them press compatable.  I may have to follow suit.  I was looking at that handle yesterday wondering "How the heck am I going to be able to cut that?"  or make an adapter that can affix these to the press.  You have answered my question.  The two other things that crossed my mind, were...

Maybe I can find a neck-down, male-male adapter to go from the 1/2 " square stud to a standard socket size, for attaching any sockets with 3/8" or 1/4" drives.

I might have to try to find a chuck that can be mounted on the stud, so I can center smaller diameter punches, for punching out pins, frozen screws (through the non-threaded part), and the like.  I was thinking of something similar to the simple chucks that come with tap sets.  If I can find one with a 1/4" drive, I may he in buisness.

The other thing is how to make something for pressing pins, and collared pins (like international dog, and dog spring pins, or bridge centering pins in place.  I noticed there are collared bushings of various sizes available through Grainger or McMaster Carr.  Would just need the correct size and a simple means of attaching them to a 1/4" drive.

Just a few thoughts on how to get tools mounted to the arbor.

I would certainly appreciate any other thoughts/suggestions on the matter.  

[Tiddlerbasher]

The re-modeled handle is finished - sawn with a hacksaw - faced off - re-blued

[Alto Mare]

hAha...somehow I knew you were going to do it . Thanks for sharing my friend.

Sal

[Tiddlerbasher]

No problemo Sal