113 hn baja special

[jonnou]

As the ratio of stainless to aluminum goes up, the galvanic corrosion  potential increases.  So a reel with stainless rings and foot attached to a aluminum frame (especially cast aluminum) is at much more risk of galvanic corrosion than an all aluminum setup with just some stainless screws.   The reel is acting like a battery when exposed to salt water.   The more stainless to aluminum, the better the battery.

The recommended  fix is to  create a barrier between the dissimilar metals.  This is usually done with grease or specialized compounds.  TSI claims that 301 reduces galvanic corrosion, so 321 might be worth a shot as a short term technique.
Nice trick on the freezer!
-J
[/quote]

you know, I was wrong in a part of my last post, the Baja SS rings never touch the aluminuim frame, they are on the outside face of the side plates which are not aluminium.
but on the reel foot being SS and the frame aluminuim we still have that galvanic corrosion risk.

have any one tried a customized plastic sheet there like the ones on the penn int 50T and few others





[/quote]http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=11657.msg113078#msg113078
i think this will work but it is too early to tell yet

[PacRat]

http://www.amazon.com/Burndy-P8A-Oxide-Inhibiting-Compounds-Container/dp/B008KLX2RY

This stuff might be better than marine grease.

[PacRat]

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=02031
t
Here's another product that's worth a look. This is a corrosion inhibitor that works real good but smells real bad. This is like a more refined aerosol version of Cosmoline. It sprays on and penetrates with the consistency of WD40 but then cures to the consistency of paraffin wax. Any petroleum distillate will work as a solvent for removing it so WD40, mineral spirits, lighter fluid or paint thinner will take it right off. You can layer it by applying additional coats which will thicken it up. Another good use for boat owners is to mist your on-board tools and they won't rust. Also very good for long-term storage of anything you don't want to rust or corrode. The only drawback is that it mostly remains tacky and will make your hands tacky.

If I were using it on a reel foot; I would apply a couple layers to both sides, letting it cure up for 15 minutes between applications. Then I would assemble the foot to frame as usual and torque the screws then wipe of any excess Lectra-Shield with solvent.

I use this stuff in chemical plants and marine environments with great results. The only disadvantage is the smell is unpleasant.

[Keta]

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=02031 The only disadvantage is the smell is unpleasant.

Even after it dries/cures?

[Keta]

http://www.amazon.com/Burndy-P8A-Oxide-Inhibiting-Compounds-Container/dp/B008KLX2RY

This stuff might be better than marine grease.

I use De-Ox and No Corrode is similar.

[foakes]

On stands screwing to aluminum frames -- I generally just cut a silouette match flexible plastic piece as a spacer -- grease the top and bottom liberally with Yamaha Marine grease -- screw it down while making sure the screws also have plenty of grease -- along with the rod mounting nuts and bolts having plenty of grease where they touch the frame --tighten it up -- and you are done.

Spray and wipe off excess with WD-40.

Best and cheapest I have found is the plastic 1 quart containers motor oil comes in.  They are free throw-aways -- and come in red, green, black, yellow, silver, blue, etc..  So can be color-keyed for match or contrast.  Since they are made of a flexible and strong enough material to contain oil safely -- and are tough and thin -- they simply work efficiently and well.

Available for free at auto parts stores, garages, and dumpsters.

Best,

Fred

[PacRat]

Thanks Fred, Great tip.

Lee, The Lectra-Shield won't stink forever, especially if it is sandwiched between two pieces of metal with the excess wiped away. Also, the field I notice that when I return to a site the surface sprayed Lectra-Shield no longer stinks. With that said....never use it in the house as I don't know how long the smell will linger. When I use it on the job I get overspray on my clothes that lingers for a while. When this stuff cures you can scape it off with your thumbnail but is stays in cracks and crevices real well. I can always tell when a contractor has applied it because the copper will still be bright and shiny where it's applied. We use this in paper mills, power plants, chemical plants, refineries, petroleum storage facilities, etc. all high acid environments.

To describe the smell; You know when you buy a new end-mill or cutting tool and it's wrapped in that brown corrosion inhibitor paper and it has a bit of residue on the steel? That's what it smells like.

[steelfish]

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=02031
t
Here's another product that's worth a look.

Since you use it and know it works on your field then it sounds like a product to check it out.

After two or three fishing trips with few catches, I bet the smell should go away.

[Keta]

CRC makes good products.

[day0ne]

A great product is TEF-GEL. ( http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor ) It is made just for this type application

[jonnou]

Im with Fred. You can't beat a Gasket of inert material.

[SoCalAngler]

As the ratio of stainless to aluminum goes up, the galvanic corrosion  potential increases.  So a reel with stainless rings and foot attached to a aluminum frame (especially cast aluminum) is at much more risk of galvanic corrosion than an all aluminum setup with just some stainless screws.   The reel is acting like a battery when exposed to salt water.   The more stainless to aluminum, the better the battery.

The recommended  fix is to  create a barrier between the dissimilar metals.  This is usually done with grease or specialized compounds.  TSI claims that 301 reduces galvanic corrosion, so 321 might be worth a shot as a short term technique.
Nice trick on the freezer!
-J

you know, I was wrong in a part of my last post, the Baja SS rings never touch the aluminuim frame, they are on the outside face of the side plates which are not aluminium.
but on the reel foot being SS and the frame aluminuim we still have that galvanic corrosion risk.

have any one tried a customized plastic sheet there like the ones on the penn int 50T and few others





[/quote]http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=11657.msg113078#msg113078
i think this will work but it is too early to tell yet
[/quote]

Not sure if the bold part is from you or if you quoted someone else but the frames of the 113HN's are machined and not cast.

[AEM]

In reading these post about corrosion I wondered if any one has tried 3M Silicon Paste. It is like a Di-electric grease. I have used it for years to prevent corrosion on disk brake calipers and on boat trailer brakes and also to protect electrical connections. It is available at any good auto parts store.

[jonnou]

the bold was quoted from another. I am just pushing the gasket idea. this is ,after all what the grease or other products that everyone recommends and uses does. i think with a gasket you can also use product or grease and you have double the protection. Fred uses the oil bottle. I have used an adhesive plastic. I hope my solution works. I will let you all Know. It has been nearly a year
Best regards Jon

[steelfish]

oil bottles sounds like a cheap and easy fix, but the foot screws on the baja are kind of short, wondering if they still screw enough to be strong and secure.
those antocorrosion pastes and compounds are new to me but they worth a try, the good thing here is that if I try any of them would be on my own reel and I can check it out anytime.