The Jigmaster Project

Alto Mare · April 18, 2016, 10:41:30 AM

Chris, here is what I think.
You should quit your job and work here full time for us.
We could all chip in a little each to cover your time and material, what do you say?

Sal

mhc · April 19, 2016, 11:46:06 AM

Good to see you got some time to do a bit of 'reel' work - the clicker shifter is a piece of art. Is the bridge chrome over brass or stainless? I haven't drilled a hole in one of those (yet).
Mike

Rothmar2 · April 19, 2016, 01:03:23 PM

Yes Mike, stock plated brass bridge, drills nice and easy. Going to put the BP stainless bridges and gears into the narrows. Looking forward to getting home and seeing Adam's stars as well. Also should have a Cobalt Tib 501 spool waiting for me from Randy. That's going with the Cortez plates. With a stainless frame, it should be brutal!

Penn Chronology · April 19, 2016, 05:50:43 PM

I believe you should be able to target Marlin with your Jigmaster. New world record in the making..............................

Rothmar2 · May 01, 2016, 12:09:12 AM

Have got a bit more done this week. Weather has been ordinary, so have had some hours to spend on getting some fine tuning done.
The main focus has been to get ring/frame hole problem sorted.
I filed out the lock ring and original trim ring together until I got both of the problem holes fully in view.

I then lined up the stainless trim ring, and was able see where I had to remove metal from this new ring's holes

Once that was done and test fitted with the stock screws, it was time to machine down some 5-40, 3/8 SS countersunk screws to suit. I did a bit of a thread on this....

http://alantani.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=h5k2ih50prov0h91lljeamafk7&topic=16302.0

The screw for the badly misaligned hole needed a lot of material removed to be able to get it in. There is still the slightest bit of bevel to tighten onto the lock ring. It looks unsightly, but I just have to go with it.

Eventually got all 6 lock ring screws in

I also drilled the extra left end ring to get rid of a bit of weight. Would really like to get this milled some day, but this will do for now.

I have a T-bar made, and a crank partly done. Should get it finished this week. Will show that when it's complete.
I adjusted the ratchet tension to where I was happy with it, just carefully bent the copper spring outwards. I don't feel excessive resistance while cranking the reel with the ratchet on now.
So I can feasibly take it fishing. Here's a sneak-peek what it will look like.

Still a lot of things to do though. The clutch lever, SS dogs, handle/crank, rod clamp, new spool arbour (Thanks Mike!) and I still want to do a bit more skimming of the frame/reel seat next time away. Have the SS sleeve, and jack/yoke to drop in when I do the final grease up assembly. I have also made a SS spacer sleeve for the drag.

But at least it's "fish able".

mhc · May 01, 2016, 08:31:05 AM

Thanks for the preview, it's good to see it with the rings on. I'll bet you're looking forward to fishing it after all the work you have put into this project.
Mike

Shark Hunter · May 04, 2016, 05:44:55 AM

Truly an amazing piece you have there Chris. Good Job my Man!

Rothmar2 · May 04, 2016, 06:42:09 AM

Thanks Daron. It's not going to be a shelfy either. I'm actually pumped to take it fishing.
I'm just loving to custom work that has been put up on the forum lately by so many other members.
Lou and his acrylic masterpieces.
Marq's carbon fibre work.
Mattman's spool mods.
Ted's continual mix and matching, and tweaking.
And hats off to anyone I've missed.
Keep it coming!

Rothmar2 · May 11, 2016, 09:21:48 AM

A little more done in the last week.

Fitted the SS sleeve, coarse pitch.
The spacer to go in is self made.
Leaving the stock jack and yoke for the time being, but will replace with SS at a later stage. Mike also sent me an SS eccentric (Newell?) to go in with new jack/yoke.

UG delrin washer.

I got around to the clutch lever. It's 2mm SS sheet. The screw is SS M3, and the lever is tapped at the stopper end. The stopper is delrin, tapped M3.

A little blue loctite on the screw before fitting, and down the bore of the stopper.

Tighten it all together

And all ready to go

Here's a look at the crank/T-bar. Still unfinished at this point. I have a bit of length trimming to do to the handle. I'll need to get to my father-in-laws to do that, it's a too large a piece to do on my mini lathe. Using a 10-49 star at the moment, but looking forward to getting one of Adam's soon. The crank is going to have a " little something" extra fitted to it down the track. I'll show that when it's done in time.

mhc · May 13, 2016, 11:05:59 AM

I like your delrin stops on the eccentric levers, it would work well on Tom's plates to protect the anodized finish. I've been thinking of doing the same thing after seeing the lever you made for your 6/0 project - http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10286.90 The handle grip is looking good as well - the stainless inserts look great.

Mike

Rothmar2 · May 20, 2016, 09:52:47 PM

Got the T-Bar completed this week.
The sleeve was made in similar fashion to the 6/0 handle. Delrin bearing inside, with M5 cap head bolt shaft. The end of the crank is tapped M5, and the lock-nut has 3.5mm hole to tommy bar it tight. This also adjusts the axial float of the handle. The thread at the end of the sleeve to screw into the T-Bar is 3/8BSP. I filed a slight flat at this end to tighten the T-Bar to the sleeve.

And mounted onto the reel. Mike had sent me one of Adam's curved stars previously, shown here

But we had some straight arm ones coming, and they arrived yesterday.
I was waiting to see this one so I can plan the idea I have for the crank. This will be the one I'll go with for this reel.

The curved star will go on the Cortez Jigmaster I'll be assembling soon.
I might actually get a chance to fish this current reel this coming week. I'll be spooling it with 8kg test, and see if I can find a school size BFT for it.

David Hall · May 21, 2016, 07:49:47 AM

Okay next picture should be on the water fishing!
Can't wait.

Tiddlerbasher · May 21, 2016, 08:37:56 AM

Lovely work Chris

Rothmar2 · May 30, 2016, 10:50:57 PM

Sorry David, no pics of this one fishing....yet. It was with us in the tin-dish with the Tank, but due to sea conditions it didn't get used.

Here is a run down of what I have done so far to build the rod clamp.

This crude mould was made from a large plastic drill container, cut and taped at one end. It's 65 x 24mm.

Pre-cut fibreglass pieces to fit in the mould. The bottom 6 layers are 450g biax cloth, the rest of the layers will be 450g csm. My reasoning being for this layup, is that the biax will provide the tensile strength where the piece will be under tension when the clamp nuts are tightened down. The csm will primarily act to build up the slab thickness for machining the clamp shape.

Mix the resin, in this case polyester. After the core piece has been shaped, epoxy and carbon fibre will be layed over this core. The epoxy will bond over this polyester core no problem

Pour a little resin into the mould and let it level out

Take first piece of biax and lay into mould, push fibreglass into resin to drive out air

Continue adding a little resin, then the biax cloth. Once the 6 layers of biax are in, continue with the csm.

Keep adding layers until the desired thickness is reached. I was shooting for 18-20mm

Allow the resin to cure for 24 hours, then pull slab from mould.

The piece was then sanded on a flat surface to true up the faces so I could mount on my mini-lathe's faceplate.
Set up the boring bar and skim the rod profile. The aim is to not skim too far, so as not to cut into the layers of biax.

This is as far I have got for now. I'll probably get a little done while at work, fab the nuts/bolts and get the holes drilled in the core piece. I will do the carbon fibre sheathing when I get home next.

Rothmar2 · June 26, 2016, 10:00:24 PM

Not a great deal of progress on this reel lately. I have made the reel clamp screws and nuts, and drilled the fibreglass core to suit. The screws are M6 that go into the frame, and M4 at the nut end. Will hand cut and then file the drive slots into the nuts at a later stage. The drive end of the nuts sit neatly in a recess on the clamp.

The reason I haven't done much to the 500 is this.....

Been busy on the first of the SS 501 frames. Although I have cheated a little this time around. Mike sent me a couple of Penn International 12T reel feet to see if they could be used.

But there was a slight difference with the radius of the 12T foot, just a shade too big...

But there was enough meat in order to re-bore/skim the radius of the SS frame into these stands. Of course, a tool had to be made to accomplish this

The faceplate was skimmed true on the lathe, and the frame diameter skimmed onto the faceplate for reference. The holding tool was then clamped to the faceplate and carefully aligned so the new frame radius could be machined into the seat. You can't see it in the photo of the tool, but there is a jacking bolt on the face of the angle bar that sits on the faceplate to assist with alignment. Tedious to set up, but once set correctly it didn't take long to machine in the new radius with the boring bar, even with light cuts.

The screws to hold it all together are M5, and I used the same method with the 500 frame to hold the seat and frame together while I drilled and tapped the screw holes. You can just see the clamping hole in the middle of all the screw holes.

When finished, one of these frames is going to Mike. He has been a big part of this project with me. There will be a few more Jiggy frames before I move onto other reels. Have a couple of extra twists to reveal in time with them as well.
I have about another week a work, so will be getting the frame cut-outs done before going home, where I will do final filing and polishing. Will show an assembled 501 then. This frame may get my set of Cortez plates mounted to it, but I have a franken-501 that will more than likely finish up this first narrow one. See how it all goes together when I get home.