My First Pflueger

[Tightlines667]

Ever since Mike posted the thread showcasing reels with the early external drags, I have been on the lookout for examples to add to my growing collection of prewar reels. Many of these guys have been selling pretty high on Ebay of late, and I wasn't quite ready to 'step up to the plate'.

*As an aside, I did buy a well patina'd  300yd Ocean City 'Dover Club' earlier today.

I made a trip over to my friend, Brother Bill's shop this afternoon to pick up an Accurate frame and anniversary spool for a jigmaster build.   Low and behold, what did I find hiding in the back corner of his bottom display shelf...

A 1920s 400yd Pflueger Everlaster Surf Casting reel with Williams drag.  

Bill was happy to hook me up.

Thank You Brother Bill!

This particular reel has no antireverse, unlike the model Mike posted earlier.  The plates measure 4 1/4", and the posts are 2 1/4".  I also noticed it has a badly cracked tailplate at the 6:30 position, it appears to maybe have replaced (or maybe just worn?) tailplate post screw at the 9:00 position, there are light scratches, a small chip, and a lightly scratched '20' in the tailplate, some corrosion and light scratches on the spool, and other metal parts, and 2 small indents on the rings on the reel's top.  She has a bit of 'character'.

Now the question is...
Should I leave the patina 'as is', do a light cleaning, or polish her up (adhering to ORCA guidlines of course)?

Also, should I attempt a repair of the tailplate myself, send it to someone, try to replace it with a period correct plate, or leave it 'as is'?  

Most of the metal edges are rounded/worn, and with the scratches, and damage I don't think it will ever look 'new'.  So maybe a light cleaning is in order.  On the otherhand, I know these reels clean up nicely, and my kneejerk is to crack her open and clean, and lightly lube the internals, and hand polish the exterior to bring back some of its former glory.

Any info/recommendations Mike or others might have would be welcomed.

Not sure of the value or rating in its current condition, but I think I am going to hold onto this one for awhile.  Cool reel.

[Tightlines667]

A few more pics...

[coastal_dan]

Score!  I guess everyone has the personal preference, but if I was shelfing it, I'd take some 0000 steel wool and then never dull over the whole thing.  When I did my Cozzone it didn't take away from the character because the nicks and bumps were still there, it was just a whole lot shinier.

Someone else may have a different opinion though...

[Keta]

For a dust collector I'd say leave the "patina".

[foakes]

Everyone is different --

I tend to agree with Dan, though.

Since I am not about to do a rotisserie museum restoration from the wheels up --

For me, a careful disassemble, clean all parts with appropriate cleaners like 0000 wool, Never Dull, Brasso, mineral spirits, etc..

Polish the finish.

Full lubrication as if it were going to be used off the end of the pier today.

Back on the shelf -- but functional.

This may sound a little corny, but I like to picture the reel as it was likely fished when new 95 years ago --

The busted pieces, or worn areas, to me -- just add to my imagination and the character of the reel.

Just clean, lube, and enjoy -- nothing special.

Here is an old Pflueger with that Williams drag, also.

Best,

Fred

[Tightlines667]

Thanks for the input guys.  I think I am leaning towards a restoration, fixing the sideplate, cleaning/lubing internals, and a light polish on the externals.  I would like the final product to be 'period correct', and know this model was produced with 2 types of finish on the nickle-silver, dull & polished, and believe later models actually had plating. This one appears to be from the 1922-1927 period, though a search through available catalogs, and reading a past ORCA article on these reels may be in order before I proceed.

Fred,

Somehow I am not surprised that you have a few of these early Pfluegers laying around your shop.  Do you have any other cool reals like the Dover Club, or an Atlapac as well?

Thanks for the input, I will post pics of the finished product, when I can find the time between servicing Internationals and Tiagras to work on it.

John

Some

[Mic]

Nice, nice, nice~!

I have had my old reel setting in mineral sprits for a week and a half and that old green crust ain't broke loose yet!

Still soaking !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Has anyone had any luck or even tried to get one of them wooden handle knobs off of it's arm ? I'm trying to soak the arm without getting the wooden knob soaked.

My vote, clean it up and make it look like it did a log, log, time ago. It is a real nice reel.

Mic

Cool reels~!!

[Reel 224]

Some pictures of my Pflueger Capitol.

[foakes]

Hey, Mic --

The Mineral Spirit bath is only to loosen up the hard grease and crud -- so you can clean it easier.

It will not take off the crusty green, or corrosion.

The green is Verdigris -- this happens when the chrome comes off and exposes the brass, copper, or bronze underneath.  Or just plain attacks the exposed metal (brass, copper, bronze).  This green or turquoise is a sign that corrosion has already occurred, and is getting worse.  It will eventually eat up the metal.

There are a few ways to stop it from getting any worse --

Soak for 20 minutes in vinegar --remove and use toothpicks or wooden dowels to chip away at the corrosion.  The vinegar should have loosened it up some.  In tougher cases -- put it back in the solution for awhile -- then keep repeating the process until you have it removed.  The vinegar will stop and arrest the corrosion process.

Then you can use Brasso, NeverDull, "0000" steel wool, etc. -- to clean and polish the reel.

As to the wood handle knobs -- they are peened or riveted in place.  And they will crack easily.

I have been known to sand them down when still on the handle -- then use a black stain to bring back the color -- then polish with a mixture of peanut oil and rottenstone -- peanut oil for a satin finish, water for shiny finish.  It is all a lot of work -- and I really don"t have the time or patience for it -- so I just generally do not touch the wood -- just use Never-Dull and elbow grease -- or Never-Dull wrapped around a wooden dowel, in the chuck of my drill press.  Patience will win the day.

But you might as well take those parts out of the Mineral Spirits -- it has done as much as it is going to do.

Best,

Fred

[Tightlines667]

 Cool reel224.  I believe that reel was produced later then the Templar, Oceanic, Everlaster, etc.  The ORCA article on Pfluegers, and the catelogs available through their website would probably nail your model down to a year range.  Head over there if your interested.

Mic,

You might want to head over to the ORCA forum and have a look around as well.  There are many knowlegable members over there, and several posts outlining the different types of 'patina', and how best to remove it without further damaging the base metal(s).  There is also a post or two on how to clean/restore, dissasemble, and repair those peened wooden handle knobs.

Fred's basic formula is a good one.  They also have several articles, and a restoration book available. I seem to recall that more severe patina can be removed utilizing a dilute HCL acid bath.  Using this stuff definately requires certain safety precautions be employed (i.e. never add water to concentrated acid, use rubber gloves, avoid skin contact or inhalation of the fumes etc...).  Do not use muratic acid (HCL) on any alum parts though, it will destroy them.  Marine jelly works well on alum, and chrome, viniger works well on brass/bronze.

Maybe post some before and after pics of your reel once you get her all cleaned up.

[Reel 224]

Cool reel224.  I believe that reel was produced later then the Templar, Oceanic, Everlaster, etc.  The ORCA article on Pfluegers, and the catelogs available through their website would probably nail your model down to a year range.  Head over there if your interested.

Mic,

You might want to head over to the ORCA forum and have a look around as well.  There are many knowlegable members over there, and several posts outlining the different types of 'patina', and how best to remove it without further damaging the base metal(s).  There is also a post or two on how to clean/restore, dissasemble, and repair those peened wooden handle knobs.

Fred's basic formula is a good one.  They also have several articles, and a restoration book available. I seem to recall that more severe patina can be removed utilizing a dilute HCL acid bath.  Using this stuff definately requires certain safety precautions be employed (i.e. never add water to concentrated acid, use rubber gloves, avoid skin contact or inhalation of the fumes etc...).  Do not use muratic acid (HCL) on any alum parts though, it will destroy them.  Marine jelly works well on alum, and chrome, viniger works well on brass/bronze.

Maybe post some before and after pics of your reel once you get her all cleaned up.

Tightlines:  That reel has been cleaned up from it's original condition, there is a lot of pitting that can not be repaired without refinishing, it's actually a reel that I intend to fish with. What I need to do is get into the drag system and look into what needs to be done or how I may be able to improve so of the looseness in the star and crank.

You are right about the age of the reel though it is a newer model then the one you have, there a well made reel though. I like the older reels and I love fishing with them. 

[Robert Janssen]

...I seem to recall that more severe patina can be removed utilizing a dilute HCL acid bath.  Using this stuff definately requires certain safety precautions...

Yes, it certainly does. Very nasty stuff.

On the other hand, citric acid is extremely effective at cleaning tarnished brass, as well as oxalic acid and phosphoric acid, which are commonly available as rust removers at the hardware / auto parts stores. And, they are far less nasty both to people and parts. Citric acid will remove oxides without harming the brass.

.

[Penn Chronology]

Love the Everlaster. They were made from 1916 to 1932. They were an honest Knuckle Buster that many owners played with the way we play with modern tackle. Some have wooden thumb stalls, some leather. The Williams handle was the perfect upgrade for them, the external anti-reverse was cool but not necessary. What is fun about an Everlaster is that it can be restored however you want to. They are not rare but they are a good quality reel. Cleaning it and then a high polish gives the best results and can be correct for the reel because it was offered polished or not when it was new. If you intend to fish with, then just clean it. Vinegar soak gives a good cleaning start. The vinegar can be watered down to a 50-50 mix and then the parts can be left longer in the solution. I do not clean with products that can damage me, mineral sprits and vinegar are good enough to clean with, after the polishing does the magic.

Leave all the parts as you found them. All the battle damage tells a story. A reel like the Everlaster is not about money, it was used by the masses and has great historic value to people that care.

The pictured Pflueger Capitol was also a masses reel. No high value here but a great reel. I believe the model you pictured is a Model 1988. It was introduced in 1939 and made well into the 1950's. Pflueger probably sold a million of them.

[Alto Mare]

Where have you been Signor Cacioppo? I haven't seen you in a while.
Nice to see you back.

Sal

[Reel 224]

Love the Everlaster. They were made from 1916 to 1932. They were an honest Knuckle Buster that many owners played with the way we play with modern tackle. Some have wooden thumb stalls, some leather. The Williams handle was the perfect upgrade for them, the external anti-reverse was cool but not necessary. What is fun about an Everlaster is that it can be restored however you want to. They are not rare but they are a good quality reel. Cleaning it and then a high polish gives the best results and can be correct for the reel because it was offered polished or not when it was new. If you intend to fish with, then just clean it. Vinegar soak gives a good cleaning start. The vinegar can be watered down to a 50-50 mix and then the parts can be left longer in the solution. I do not clean with products that can damage me, mineral sprits and vinegar are good enough to clean with, after the polishing does the magic.

Leave all the parts as you found them. All the battle damage tells a story. A reel like the Everlaster is not about money, it was used by the masses and has great historic value to people that care.

The pictured Pflueger Capitol was also a masses reel. No high value here but a great reel. I believe the model you pictured is a Model 1988. It was introduced in 1939 and made well into the 1950's. Pflueger probably sold a million of them.

You are rite on with the Capitol, it is a model 1988 good call!! It probably could us some upgrades to make it a bit better for fishing, one thing that I find is the drag star and crank are loose,as in the crank and star will move in and out slightly as there is very little drag adjustment left. I love this reel for it's simple operation and smoothness.