Newell C338-5 and S229-5, no freespool, bought to refurbish

[fishmeluck]

I bought two Newells about two months ago, my first Newells, a C338-5 and S229-5 for $90 each, because neither one would free-spool, they looked pretty nice on the outside, and I was hoping the problems were minor. About two weeks ago, I disassembled them and confirmed the problems were indeed fairly minor . In both cases the left side-plate spool bearing was rusted badly enough to make turning the spool feel somewhat like turning a pepper grinder. My first reaction was, whew!, it's just bearings. My second reaction was, gee, I liked how the reels looked inside, especially the integrated bridge assembly, with no loose parts. I'm taking pictures as I go and plan to post a more complete record of the rebuilds when finished, but this is what I've found so far:

I first disassembled both reels two weeks ago, could not get the rusted spool bearing off the shaft from the C338-5, put some CorrosionX on it, and set it aside to loosen up. There was a thin Belleville washer under the handle which was cracked. I did not notice at the time, but there was a 3-205 insert broken into two parts, with the head part in the side ring and the threaded part stuck inside the side plate. Otherwise, this reel seemed to be in very good condition. If these were not my first Newells, I would probably have noticed the broken insert.

The S229-5 seemed to be in even better condition. The only problem found so far was that it also had a badly rusted spool bearing in the left side plate. I wondered if the previous owner had washed the reels and set them on their left sides for a long period of time, allowing water to pool in the left side bearings. Those long screws I had read about were easy to remove and there was only minor rust on the threads. They still appeared strong.

I ordered two sets of replacement S.S. ABEC-5 bearings from SmoothDrag, a Belleville washer from Ebay, and two sets of 5+1 drag stacks from Bryan to upgrade the drags.

Today, I returned to working on the reels, and the CorrosionX having done its job, the spool bearing came off the C338-5 spool shaft easily. Then, I noticed the broken insert and realized I would not be finishing the rebuild of the C338-5 today . A few choice words briefly graced the air of my living room, but peace soon reigned again as I turned to alantani.com.

Browsing the Newell posts, I came across Newell Nut's post here, http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=6881.0, and Newell Nut and Alan's comments here, http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4955.15, concerning the 3-205 insert. Newell Nut mentioned he had sold some inserts on Ebay at one time, so I checked, and there are no 3-205 inserts for sale at the moment. Anyway, I'm hoping I can buy a packet of the McMaster Carr 4-40 inserts with screws from Newell Nut, or someone else has a 3-205 insert I can buy.

[Newell Nut]

I replied to your PM. You got lucky since I sent all of my threaded inserts but two sets to Jerry Downie yesterday.

[fishmeluck]

I replied to your PM. You got lucky since I sent all of my threaded inserts but two sets to Jerry Downie yesterday.

Whoo hoo! Christmas came early. Thanks Santa, er, Dwight!

[foakes]

Dwight beat me to it, Fishmeluck --

Dwight had mentioned previously in a thread -- that McMaster-Carr has some close inserts that could be modified -- or go with a stronger Penn post -- for more top end frame stability.

I found these in one of my Newell boxes -- one packet of 3/8", and one pack of 1/2".

But Dwight is one of the experts on Newells around here -- along with Bluefish, Alan, and Bryan -- so he already has you covered.

Best,

Fred

[fishmeluck]

Dwight beat me to it, Fishmeluck --

Dwight had mentioned previously in a thread -- that McMaster-Carr has some close inserts that could be modified -- or go with a stronger Penn post -- for more top end frame stability.

I found these in one of my Newell boxes -- one packet of 3/8", and one pack of 1/2".

But Dwight is one of the experts on Newells around here -- along with Bluefish, Alan, and Bryan -- so he already has you covered.

Best,

Fred

Thanks Fred,

It's good to know there are so many Newell experts here. Makes me less afraid to just dive in and start working on these reels.

About a month after buying the two reels above, I was looking at buying a second-hand Calstar rod, and I was offered another Newell. That one was an S338-5, nice looking but missing the seat clamp and screws. I bought that one for $100. Sellers on Ebay were asking for a ridiculous $8-$10 per screw, just the clamps were going for about $20 including shipping. So, I went to Home Depot, bought some S.S. Allen head cap screws for $1 each. Then, I spent $24 including shipping and got the nice Tiburon clamp. The reel is now ready to fish with 15-20 seconds of freespool, but I won't use it without opening it and giving it a full service first.

I have two of Bryan's 5+1 drag upgrade kits, and I'm mulling over what to do with these three reels. Keep the S229 and sell one of the 300 Series, or keep all three. If I keep just two reels, that is where the drag upgrades will go. But, if I keep all three, it seems the drag upgrades should go into the 300 Series. The S229 seems quite able to handle 20 or 25 lb line w/ three HT-100 drag washers.

Opinions? I know, I know, keep all three. But my frugal nature says don't keep toooooo many more reels than I can possible fish. As to keeping one of the 300 Series, which is considered the better reel, the C or the S?

[foakes]

Opinions? I know, I know, keep all three. But my frugal nature says don't keep toooooo many more reels than I can possible fish. As to keeping one of the 300 Series, which is considered the better reel, the C or the S?


Dwight is the real expert in the Newell area -- I always defer to his judgement. 

Although, unless it is a budget issue, and we all respect that -- 3 reels is not near enough, anyway!

Best,

Fred

[vilters]

GENERALLY, the S series are considered superior to the C series reels, especially if the S reel has metal bearing caps, which the C series reels don't, but the S sometimes do. either way, you cannot have too many newells!

[Sulla]

GENERALLY, the S series are considered superior to the C series reels, especially if the S reel has metal bearing caps, which the C series reels don't, but the S sometimes do. either way, you cannot have too many newells!

X2... Check to see if the S has metal bearing caps on both sides and if it does no brainer keep that one.

[fishmeluck]

GENERALLY, the S series are considered superior to the C series reels, especially if the S reel has metal bearing caps, which the C series reels don't, but the S sometimes do. either way, you cannot have too many newells!

X2... Check to see if the S has metal bearing caps on both sides and if it does no brainer keep that one.

The C338 has no metal caps. The S338 has one metal cap on the non-handle side. The handle side does not appear to have a removable cap; it looks like the bearing must be pulled from the blind hole inside.

[thinkwahoo]

The slotted ss bearing adjuster on the 229 is a replacement for the crummy plastic one. The right side of the reel has a plastic insert that can be removed, if needed. Remove the spool, insert a pin thru the bearing, and gently tap to remove this insert.  This step is needed when you have a bearing stuck in the right side plate.  After removal of the plastic insert you can push the bearing out from the outside of the side plate.

There is no adjustment on the right side bearing, but with some reels there may be a thin shim washer under the bearing.

[vilters]

The slotted ss bearing adjuster on the 229 is a replacement for the crummy plastic one. The right side of the reel has a plastic insert that can be removed, if needed. Remove the spool, insert a pin thru the bearing, and gently tap to remove this insert.  This step is needed when you have a bearing stuck in the right side plate.  After removal of the plastic insert you can push the bearing out from the outside of the side plate.

There is no adjustment on the right side bearing, but with some reels there may be a thin shim washer under the bearing.

so that's how it works. thanks think wahoo for the explanation. I've seen replacement metal bearing cups for those. anyone know where to get them?

[Sulla]

"so that's how it works. thanks think wahoo for the explanation. I've seen replacement metal bearing cups for those. anyone know where to get them"







Try Uluajunkies.com. They sell Newell bearing cup and other parts.

[fishmeluck]

My rebuild of the C338-5 and S229-5 are on hold pending receipt of a replacement for the C338 broken insert. So today, I serviced that S338-5 that I bought about a month after the first two Newells. I took some photos during disassembly but do not have any time to upload and comment on them due to Christmas preparations. Just wanted to jot down a few observations and comments for the sake of memory.

The main goals were to install Bryan's 5+1 drag upgrade and new stainless ABEC-5 spool bearings, as this is a reel I plan to keep. Another was to get a good look around inside the reel, because despite the seller saying it was serviced about a month ago, my normal mode is to check it out anyway.

The first surprise was ... dirt under both outer rings and some rust. Go figure.



Another oddity was grease on the bridge assembly so thick it looked like it was put on with a putty knife. No wonder I couldn't hear the anti-reverse dog click. The three carbon fiber drag washers were greased and were in excellent condition as were the metal washers. Both shields were still in place in the right side spool bearing. The left side spool bearing had the shields removed on both sides and grease in it.



Bryan's drag upgrade went in, and I saved the old drag washers to replace the drags in the C338-5, which I plan to sell. A delrin washer from SmoothDrag went under the gear instead of the small +1 washer in Bryan's kit. Also, I tried using the small o.d. Belleville washer that came in Bryan's kit, but the drag stack was too short that way, and the drag star bottomed against the side plate before reaching full drag. Back in went the original large thick Belleville instead and the stack fit perfectly.

In went the new bearings, lubricated with TSI-321. Free spool was very good; the bearings were smooth and quiet. I set aside the old spool bearings from this reel to use in the C338-5. I have another set of new bearings for the S229-5.

My general purpose grease was Lubrimatic Marine Grease, the drag grease was Cal's Drag Grease, and I cleaned the rings with CorrosionX.

Re-assembly went smoothly because of the photos I took during disassembly. But, does anyone beside me find the whole three outer screws ...



and five inner screws arrangement a little odd?



The reel looks great now, spins pretty good and the bearings are very quiet, but there is still some slight rubbing slowing the spool down ever so slightly. The tolerances on these Newells put the Penn reels to shame. Can't even get a fingernail between the spool and rings anywere, so I'm not going to fret over a tiny rub somewhere. The drag can almost be backed off almost to zero, and when the drag is on, there is still pressure behind the star from the thin Belleville under the handle. It now takes very little effort with the star to get substantial drag.

I mounted the reel on an 8 ft, 20-50 lb, Seeker SD8 rod and plan to fill the spool with 60 lb braid and 100 yards of 40 lb mono.

[bluefish69]

Fishme

You did pretty good with everything but I didn't see where you polished both ends of the spool shaft. Did you clean the inside of the Pinion Gear? If there is ANY hang up when you put the Pinion Gear on the long spool shaft polish this spot till it turns smooth.

Mike

[fishmeluck]

Fishme

You did pretty good with everything but I didn't see where you polished both ends of the spool shaft. Did you clean the inside of the Pinion Gear? If there is ANY hang up when you put the Pinion Gear on the long spool shaft polish this spot till it turns smooth.

Mike

You're right, Mike. All I did was run a pipe cleaner with a little CorrosionX on it through the Pinion Gear before re-assembly. I have a Dremel tool too, with a buffing/polishing bit, but I forgot to bring it home from the high school where I work before the Christmas Break.