Frame strength

basto · December 23, 2015, 12:33:27 AM

Which is the strongest frame, the stock multi piece metal frame on the Jigmaster 500 or the one piece graphite frame on the GTO 320 level wind reel

thanks
Basto

Rancanfish · December 23, 2015, 01:24:24 AM

I would say the jigmaster, IF, you are using the cross bars instead of the posts.

I think the 320 frame would be a bit more resistant to flex than the jig bars. JMHO.

basto · December 23, 2015, 02:21:26 AM

If the 320 frame is more resistant to flex, then would that not mean that it is the strongest?

Ron Jones · December 23, 2015, 02:35:13 AM

I have never had a graphite frame fail, Alan told us to keep the drag to 20 pounds or less and it has worked for me for years. I have seen stock Penns twist under less drag as that after lots of fatigue. My gut says that the graphite is stronger but I only have the above anecdotes to back it up.
Ron

Rancanfish · December 23, 2015, 03:16:57 AM

Quote from: basto on December 23, 2015, 02:21:26 AM
If the 320 frame is more resistant to flex, then would that not mean that it is the strongest?

I meant resistant to twist. To my twisted mind, the little pencil bars supported by one screw at each end would twist if subjected to torque, however it was created. (Super drag stack, SS parts, etc?).

Regular wide bars would proportionately increase the resistance to twist. Like the graphite frame. However, if I was gonna beef up a drivetrain, I would want a frame that wasn't graphite.

Don't get me wrong, I love my first generation 320 / 310 GTI.

Alto Mare · December 23, 2015, 05:15:22 AM

I own no graphite reels, correction, I do have one 320.
I understand the statement, if kept under 20 pound they would be ok, unfortunately, small reels come with small frames.
I've seen small spinners twist, I got rid of all my graphite spinners a while back.
With that said, I heard of some that really like those graphite reels, so it might just be me $:-\$ .

Sal

foakes · December 23, 2015, 05:57:38 AM

Both reel frames will hold up fine -- with average size fish.

But we all target and hope for big, heavy, good fighting fish.

Maybe it is just me, but I look at what Carl Newell did to beef up Penns 25 to 35 years ago -- after extensive real ocean condition testing using the Southern California Fleet as his laboratory.

Solid stands to replace the chromed over brass.

Double bars instead of stock posts -- to help eliminate twist.

Spools, bearings, etc.

I have seen many a stock jigmaster, 4/0, 6/0, 9/0, etc. -- with a twisted stand and/or warped rings.

The key is to eliminate frame twist -- and this is best done in my opinion with a solid aluminum frame.

Plus we need to remember, we are beefing up these reels past their design limits -- with our great drag systems and stronger gearing drive-trains, use of braid, etc.. So now the weak link is the frame.

More metal where it counts -- the better

It doesn't matter what is inside the reel -- when the frame twists, you are done with that reel for the day.

Best,

Fred

basto · December 24, 2015, 12:36:47 AM

Thanks guys for your replies.
Basto

Ron Jones · January 04, 2016, 09:51:11 AM

I know this is a bit old, I'll be catching up until I die, but Foakes brings up a good point. I have several Newell graphite bases and bars and I have never heard of any Newell frame piece failing regardless of the layout. If a graphite stand and bars is strong, it stands to reason that a complete semi-circle or circle for that matter is stronger. Just my thoughts.
Ron

johndtuttle · January 04, 2016, 05:31:45 PM

Some context is important: As Foakes says, if either of these frames is insufficient you are over fishing the reel. Jigmasters 500 or Senators 113H are notorious for flexing, when pushed beyond their max (un-upgraded wide frame with posts). A modern graphite reel is far more rigid. BUT, they eventually fatigue and if fished at their max for years eventually break.

In which case you needed a solid aluminum framed reel to begin with.

akfish · January 04, 2016, 07:00:33 PM

I see lots and lots of Penn 330s in the shop with shredded gears. The problem is that people load them with spectra and fish them for halibut. And as a result, the frame flexes and the gears misalign. This is especially common when people leave the rod in the rod holder and just wrench up the fish. My feeling is that if you are fishing anything over about 50# line, you should have a metal reel.

swill88 · January 04, 2016, 08:22:05 PM

Quote from: akfish on January 04, 2016, 07:00:33 PM
I see lots and lots of Penn 330s in the shop with shredded gears. The problem is that people load them with spectra and fish them for halibut. And as a result, the frame flexes and the gears misalign. This is especially common when people leave the rod in the rod holder and just wrench up the fish. My feeling is that if you are fishing anything over about 50# line, you should have a metal reel.

sounds like great advice... thanks!

Ron Jones · January 04, 2016, 10:05:22 PM

The 330 is a funky toad. It has the same guts as a 320 but the spool of a 112H. I've seen a 180# halibut landed on a 330 LD, but it was clearly out of its class. I think the weak, brass 5:1 main gear on suck a large diameter spool is what causes the issue. I'd love a 330 with jigmaster guts. Oh, wait, that would be a 112H.
Ron

handi2 · January 05, 2016, 01:18:53 AM

And the 320 gears are not as thick/strong as the 113H main gear

akfish · January 05, 2016, 01:22:51 AM

The 330 has the same main gear as the 320 but a different pinion gear. The 330 has a 3.6:1 retrieve ratio; the 320 has a 4.5:1 ratio. The larger pinion gear teeth on the 330 makes it a little stronger but not much. The 330LD has different gears entirely but, I think, still has a 3.6:1 ratio.