Reel Handle Upgrades

[billystrikero]

I would like some input on the topic of installing full grip handle upgrades.  Mind you all that I am an enthusiast addressing to fishing gear experts.  Furthermore, I do not possess a technical background such as engineering or science in any sense, only a tinkerer. 

I have encountered many postings about modifying fishing reel from stock to improve the fishing capacity.  Upgrades in bearings, grease, oil, and internal mechanism, all seem logical.  However, the topic of upgrading the handle size is not an easy answer from my experience. 

Each fishing reel has specific fishing capacity from the weight of the catch to the rigors tolerated by the mechanicals.  Catch capacity is the size of the catch, being that a reel designed for fresh water trout is not intended for tuna fishing.  Therefore, the mechanical make-up of the reel is designed and built for specified catch specification. 

When a reel is designed for specific capacity, its internal mechanism can only withstand so much power from the catch and the fisherman (cranking of the handle in circular motion and the uneven thrusting of the handle from side to side).  In order to minimize the abuse of the mechanical underpinning, the crank handle of relative size to the reel capacity and physical rigors is installed to minimize mechanical break-down such as bending the crankshaft. 

I can only guess that the engineers at the fishing reel company figured out the most appropriate crank handle size given its mechanical design and material composition (lower grade metal, rather than alloy).  The most appropriate handle upgrade would be a more comfortable grip without injecting more power into the reel than the intended capacity. 

[Norcal Pescador]

I understand your concerns and agree with your conclusions; unless you change the length of the handle, you aren't imparting any more power to the reel gears, line, etc. Alan says it best, "On many reels, the length of the handle arm is fine, it's just the grip that is too small." Many reel manufacturers, for whatever reason, make their grips too small for extended cranking, they make your hand cramp up. A bigger grip fills your hand better and reduces the cramping. Penn for example, sells several reels with handles that have two or three options for attaching the handle; speed [smaller circles = faster retrieve] or power [larger circles = retrieving with less effort] but the grip size is the same [mostly too small].
Read his article if you haven't already:  http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=158.0
Hope this helps.

[wallacewt]

,i have small hands and the round knobs are perfect for me.my wrists dont ache.manufactures have to supply the masses and we are not all built the same.to much drag will bust the reel not the crankin.make no mistake,you can catch trout on a trout reel,marlin and tuna  as well.just ask the record holders. cheers.

[billystrikero]

I don't want to belabor the point.

I would like to add to Alan Tani's excellent posting by stating that one should not apply too much force on the handle beyond the reel's capacity provided by the improved grip. 

[Bryan Young]

If your reels drags are set within the reel's limits, the larger hande or arm will not make any difference to the reel, but will make a difference on how you crank and how much leverage you have to crank.  Reels tend to warp, gear sleeve round out, or even explode when reels are taken beyond the design limits, normally dealing with line strength and drag limits.

[franky]

A few years ago, I went on a charter boat in california with my brother.  They had jigmaster reels on their bottom fishing set-ups.  On the way out, I noticed that the prior person who rented the reel that I was now using had reeling in all the line unevenly. Just for kicks, I tied on a 5 ounce lead and let the line out till it had approximately 20 or so yards left of the spool.  I then cranked the line in evenly and wow   cranking in on a small torpedo handle that was between 1.25 and 1.5 inches was painful!  I ended up with a blister between my pointer finger and the middle finger.    The cramping on my hand was another problem.

From that day forward, I understand what Alan meant when he said the knobs on the reels are too small.

Later, when I ordered my 4/0 kolekars from Alan and put them on my newells....now were talking!  

Overall, the bigger knob was soooo much more comfortable.  Now combine that with a properly maintained drag system, I think the internals of my reels should be fine.  If the pressure from the fish or my cranking should exceed the internal mechanisms capacities, the smooth drag should kick in and the line payout shall begin......Oh yeah, nothing like having a ripping drag! Fish on!  

Main thing....no cramping and no blisters between my fingers.  

[alantani]

actually, it is not the handle grip or the lenth of the handle arm the predisposes a reel to damage. it is really the drag system.  if it's sticky, the drag will surge, maybe even double, and that is what causes the damage.  you can accomplish the same thing by doubling the drag pressure on purpose.  if the drag is properly set and works smoothly, you will not damage the gear sleeve. 

[billystrikero]

Thank gentlemen for your input.  Much appreciated.  BTW, I followed a poster's advice and purchased a couple of Tyrnos reels.  Thank you again Alan Tani for this great site.  I can not wait to receive them and open them up to check out the lub and drag condition.  Have a good night everyone.