80SW cam issues

[TheReelShop]

So John here has been helping me out. I had issues with spacing, lever too hard, preset knobs etc... I had to buy a new cam follower because the original was marred and all messed up. after that I sanded all cam round parts and reassembled the cam assembly. Now the preset knob became difficult again to turn and when I took it apart to inspect this is what is going on..

The cam follower pins are molding the edge of the eccentric cam. This in turn is now making a groove on the cam follower and I wonder if this is hindering my whole performance overall on the reel. Can I save the cam and do I need new pins?

The way the pin is when installed



As you lift and drop the lever the pin is making an indentation/sharp edge on the eccentric cam pointed out with the flathead



This is resulting is deep groove in my cam follower and also in turning the preset. this is probably also holding me back on placing more pressure to increase my drag. the groove is deeper than it seems.

[Tightlines667]

You do need a new set of cam follower pins...

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/142-80ST.aspx

You have the older style, with the newer style cam...

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/142-80.aspx

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/19H-80.aspx

Crazy that you would be able to mar the cam just testing the reel.  That cam is one of the hardest metals in the reel.  The cam and gear stud pin are the only harder parts.  You should hopefully be able to save/debur the cam itself.  

I hope I didn't lead you astray?  I forgot the older 80 cam and pins were used for a time in the 80SW, and that the pins were different.  I would have checked has I known you were going to order a new cam.

I can drop 2 pins in an envelope and send them your way if you pm me your address.

Basically you have to test each subassembly for fit and function as you are reassembling a reel, or trying to diagnose a given problem.

John

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

[TheReelShop]

I was able to save the cam and smoothed out the ID so that it would not mar the cam follower. I was thinking of smoothing out the border as well but that will affect the drag ramp.

You do need a new set of cam follower pins...

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/142-80ST.aspx

You have the older style, with the newer style cam...

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/142-80.aspx

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/19H-80.aspx


Crazy that you would be able to mar the cam just testing the reel.  That cam is one of the hardest metals in the reel.  The cam and gear stud pin are the only harder parts.  You should hopefully be able to save/debur the cam itself.  

I hope I didn't lead you astray?  I forgot the older 80 cam and pins were used for a time in the 80SW, and that the pins were different.  I would have checked has I known you were going to order a new cam.

I can drop 2 pins in an envelope and send them your way if you pm me your address.

Basically you have to test each subassembly for fit and function as you are reassembling a reel, or trying to diagnose a given problem.

John

You did not lead me astray John, you've been awesome guiding me and its forcing me to learn and understand situations and reel building.

[Tightlines667]

I would go ahead and smooth out the ramp, better you then the new pins.  Just take it slow and only take off what is needed to get a flat/even surface.  It may increase the tail end of the drag curve (by removing a few thousandths of material from the low end), but it should really not be noticable.  You may have actually been able to save your old cam as well.

[TheReelShop]

I would go ahead and smooth out the ramp, better you then the new pins.  Just take it slow and only take off what is needed to get a flat/even surface.  It may increase the tail end of the drag curve (by removing a few thousandths of material from the low end), but it should really not be noticable.  You may have actually been able to save your old cam as well.

The cam pictured is the original. Its the brass piece that I had to buy because it was all marred up.

[Tightlines667]

I would go ahead and smooth out the ramp, better you then the new pins.  Just take it slow and only take off what is needed to get a flat/even surface.  It may increase the tail end of the drag curve (by removing a few thousandths of material from the low end), but it should really not be noticable.  You may have actually been able to save your old cam as well.

The cam pictured is the original. Its the brass piece that I had to buy because it was all marred up.

That makes sense.  I probably have a NOS cam I can toss in the envelope, along with a new set of Bellevilles if you want them (i.e. are at all concerned).

[TheReelShop]

Thanks a million...