Cortez Conversions FaceBook Page!

[Cortez_Conversions]

I would like to invite you all to like our new FaceBook page!
My friend Rob Saconi has come aboard as our PR/Social Media Rep and front office guru.
He has created a page for all of you to show off your Cortez Conversions builds, where you've fished them, or just keep in touch!
Thanks to all of you for making this possible!
Tom

[PacRat]

Heading there now...thanks.
-Mike

[Bryan Young]

Shared with my Hawaii connections.

[Ron Jones]

Following, it looks great!
Ron

[steelfish]

Done, since the beginning buddy

[Eddie Hernandez]

Hi-new to the site and i have recently gotten into repair/upgrading/restoring penn reels, very addictive!! I really enjoy it!! These Conversions are amazing and its a must have for me!! I have 2 vintage jigmasters myself a 500 and 500s. I cant wait to show up on my buddies boat with my narrow C.C reel!!!!  How does this work, what will i need to complete my C.C. reel? I'm even considering making one for my son, would it harm the reel if i had something engraved on the side plate? or any area on the reel?

I also love the facebook page great job awesome product!!!!!

[RowdyW]

One thing is if you engrave the reel you will be cutting through the anodizing which will lead to corrosion problems in the engraving & under the anodizing. If you are going to build narrow versions you will need narrow spools too. If you are using the Classic version it comes with a aluminum frame. If you are buying just the standard version plates you can purchase an after market aluminum frame.         Rudy

[Eddie Hernandez]

Rudy thanks for all the info!! I'm going to go with the narrow jigmaster reel kit. Where would be a good place to purchase the narrow spool?

[RowdyW]

Get in touch with Randy at Offshore Tackle in the Dealer and wanted to buy and sell section. Randy can get the frames too, new and used. Tom from Cortez is in the same section of the forum.

[jurelometer]

One thing is if you engrave the reel you will be cutting through the anodizing which will lead to corrosion problems in the engraving & under the anodizing. If you are going to build narrow versions you will need narrow spools too. If you are using the Classic version it comes with a aluminum frame. If you are buying just the standard version plates you can purchase an after market aluminum frame.         Rudy

Hi Rudy,

  Curious if you have seen LASER engraving corrosion firsthand.

Laser engraving uses low power lasers that oxidize the dye leaving a white residue.  Since the lasers are not that powerful, and the underlying aluminum is reflective, the laser does not have the capability to cut into the actual aluminum, including the anodized layer at the surface.   Laser engraving of anodized parts including fishing reels both as part of production (after the full anodizing process) and aftermarket is quite common.  I have  engraved anodized aluminum myself with a cO2 laser and it was not very complicated. 

Having said that,  I believe that anodizers do apply coatings to help keep the dye from fading, and these coatings might provide a little bit of corrosion protection.   These coatings woud also be vaporized where the laser touches.   

If it were my reel,  I would laser engrave it myself and not lose any sleep.   For someone intent on ensuring it was done right including cosmetics,  I would have the manufacturer check with the anodizer for any laser engraving instructions, and send it out to a professional laser engraver with experience in  reels.  I would check with Tom in this case,  he might already have an engraver that he works with for his day job.

Sorry to get off topic-  I'm going to Tom's Facebook page now for a looksee

-J

[RowdyW]

-j, are you sure that the reel manufactures are all laser engraving the anodized parts on their reels? A lot of it looks like some kind of ink printing that wears off with use. An example is Accurate frames & plates with the Accurate name on them rubs off with use & leaves no marking in the anodized finish underneath.

[Cortez_Conversions]

Laser engraving is the industry standard now.
Early Accurates were pad printed, then at some point switched to laser as well.
Tiburon used to actually machine engrave, but now have moved to laser as well.

Done right, the laser will not harm the aluminum or significantly weaken the anodize. If the laser burns thru the anodize, then there is the potential for corrosion.

Tom

[Shark Hunter]

Laser Engraved at the Everol Factory in Italy.

[Alto Mare]

I could feel  with my fingernail that these are actually cut into the plates:


Sal

[jurelometer]

If  the engraving is white and you can feel a very shallow flat indentation (not a v shape)  it is probably laser engraved - like Shark Hunter's Everol, or Sal's Accurate    If it is a deeper rounded or V shaped cut in the engraving, it is probably machine engraved- like the lettering on Tom's kits.  Cleanly executed machine engraving requires more skill and time, and must be done before anodizing-  a higher-end feature in my mind.   Another detail that sets the CC builds apart.