Stradic 2500FH handles and friction ring

[C@TCH]

Hello, new guy here.
Looking for a couple of handles to repair my reels and when cleaning them I found one of them had the friction ring almost melted from the grease or oil. I tried to find some online but looks like they are discontinued. Does anyone know where to get a couple or is there something else I can use.

[alantani]

we have a couple of guys that are good with spinners.  it's certainly not me, but can't you do without that part?  been a while since i've had one of those opened.   

[C@TCH]

we have a couple of guys that are good with spinners.  it's certainly not me, but can't you do without that part?  been a while since i've had one of those opened.   

I'm not sure, I just figured it was in there so I needed to replace it.

[handi2]

If a friction ring is not available regular "O" rings work just as well and will not deteriorate. One from a newer model reel may work also.

The reel will work fine without it if the bail arm has the click pin that holds the bail arm back in place.

Handles are hard to find so eBay may be the only place.

[johndtuttle]

Hello, new guy here.
Looking for a couple of handles to repair my reels and when cleaning them I found one of them had the friction ring almost melted from the grease or oil. I tried to find some online but looks like they are discontinued. Does anyone know where to get a couple or is there something else I can use.

The Friction Ring is just to prevent the rotor from moving during a cast and accidentally auto-tripping the bail and leading to a snap off and lost lure.

Don't bother replacing it.

Inside the bail arm is the Bail Trip Lever. Just nip off the end so it cannot auto trip the bail (replace the rest in the reel if the rotor balance is affected).

All high end spinning reels are manual-trip only and you very quickly automatically do it without thinking. No auto trip is better and prevents the loss of lures. You will thank yourself for never using it again as it is hard on the reel too in the long run.



best

[C@TCH]

If a friction ring is not available regular "O" rings work just as well and will not deteriorate. One from a newer model reel may work also.

The reel will work fine without it if the bail arm has the click pin that holds the bail arm back in place.

Handles are hard to find so eBay may be the only place.

Thanks

[C@TCH]

Hello, new guy here.
Looking for a couple of handles to repair my reels and when cleaning them I found one of them had the friction ring almost melted from the grease or oil. I tried to find some online but looks like they are discontinued. Does anyone know where to get a couple or is there something else I can use.

The Friction Ring is just to prevent the rotor from moving during a cast and accidentally auto-tripping the bail and leading to a snap off and lost lure.

Don't bother replacing it.

Thanks

Inside the bail arm is the Bail Trip Lever. Just nip off the end so it cannot auto trip the bail (replace the rest in the reel if the rotor balance is affected).

All high end spinning reels are auto-trip only and you very quickly automatically do it without thinking. No auto trip is better and prevents the loss of lures. You will thank yourself for never using it again as it is hard on the reel too in the long run.



best

[mangrove]

The Friction Ring is just to prevent the rotor from moving during a cast and accidentally auto-tripping the bail and leading to a snap off and lost lure.

Don't bother replacing it.

Inside the bail arm is the Bail Trip Lever. Just nip off the end so it cannot auto trip the bail (replace the rest in the reel if the rotor balance is affected).

All high end spinning reels are manual-trip only and you very quickly automatically do it without thinking. No auto trip is better and prevents the loss of lures. You will thank yourself for never using it again as it is hard on the reel too in the long run.

best
[/quote]

Thanks! 

[foakes]

If a crank is needed -- have plenty, just need to match it up.

Best,

Fred

[Cor]

What a collection Fred, I wont ask how long you've been fixing reels to collect all that.

[Gfish]

Yet another way to do it and mabey preserve the auto-trip feature on your stratic, would be to remove the "bail Trip Strike"( part#11610 on my FJ 3000) up underneath the rotor. That way you wouldn't have to "nip off the end" of the bail trip lever. Latter, if you find the ring, you can replace both, but it's probably better to do as was already mentioned - keep it manual. The auto-trip's probably kinda hard on certain parts a the reel, but manual-trip, does take some gettin used to.
Gfish

[philaroman]

as far as the friction ring, what John said... 
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=2941.msg231080#msg231080

handles -- I have:
at least one 2500FH handle (not pretty, but functional);
a pile of older Shimano 1000-2500 size handles -- choice of knob or double-paddle
NOTE:  I'm going by the memory that StradicFH was the first model that has the four little "teeth" on the main gear matching to four indents on the handle, where they join -- in older models, gear-to-handle connection was plain/smooth.
You can use the older handles by adding a washer (something heavy-duty yet compressible, about 2mm thick) for those little "teeth" to bite into, without gettig crushed 

If you want high-end, rare, expensive, UNNECESSARY upgrades (a bit heavy/bulky for the super-light 2500FH, IMO), I have a JDM Biomaster 2000 folding handle that should fit & early Sustain machined aluminum side covers for handle screws.

[foakes]

What a collection Fred, I wont ask how long you've been fixing reels to collect all that.

Yeah, and that is just the oddballs like Shakes, Shimano, Daiwa, etc.

I keep the Quicks, Penn's, ABU's, Cardinals, all in separate organized areas.  

Then there are the Mitchells -- that is a work in progress.  Have around 20,000 NOS parts for those -- in 5 different locations.  Picked up 4 more part organizers -- am just about ready to start sorting them into part numbers.  

The French have always made things over-complicated -- but after going through all of my shop manuals, interchangeability parts crossover manuals, parts lists for old style and new -- I believe that a workable system is possible -- with all parts quickly and easily accessible.

About 2/3's NOS -- and about 1/3 good used.

That is why I try to offer these to members -- I have plenty -- and a couple of times a year -- or at least once -- I spend a few days "stripping" reels down to parts.  Save the cranks, bails, spools, drag knobs, bail screws, springs, etc..

Ultrasonically batch clean everything -- then toss into hopefully some semblance of order.

The busted bodies go in the garbage -- the tiny interior parts, washers, bushings, and screws go into a mish-mash of assorted parts that have saved a client's reel on many occasions.

Best,u

Fred