ambassadeur spool ahjustments

Started by fishhawk, March 23, 2016, 07:15:30 PM

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fishhawk

Hi
  I was told if you use a penn with the spool adjustment too tight you will damage your spool shaft. Ok so will it harm anything to over tighten spool adjustment on ambassadeurs?
thanx
  mark

Marcq

Quote from: fishhawk on March 23, 2016, 07:15:30 PM
Hi
  I was told if you use a penn with the spool adjustment too tight you will damage your spool shaft. Ok so will it harm anything to over tighten spool adjustment on ambassadeurs?
thanx
  mark

Hey Mark! Why would you want to over tighten the spool adjustment on your Abu?

Marc..

0119

#2
Quoteauthor=fishhawk link=topic=17334.msg182283#msg182283 date=1458760530
will it harm anything to over tighten spool adjustment on ambassadeurs?

Yes....

fishhawk

sorry marc I'm not recieving replies!
  for casting large weights, that ts-3201 is some fast stuff! and I'm having to tighten my spool adj. a little more than I like too.

Fish-aholic

#4
Quote from: fishhawk on March 24, 2016, 03:26:47 PM
sorry marc I'm not recieving replies!
 for casting large weights, that ts-3201 is some fast stuff! and I'm having to tighten my spool adj. a little more than I like too.

Moderate application of the spool tension caps is fine. Used excessively so reel generates very poor freespool qualities causes premature wear with prolonged use.

If you're finding TSI too slick and your reel has become temperamental, remove the right side plate (RH reel?) via the three protruding thumb screws, and check how many centrifugal brake blocks/pucks you have currently available/engaged to work?

In case you don't know how b/blocks work; they basically apply friction to the revolving spool by nestling against an accommodating brake ring. The faster the spool rotates from distance casting, the more centrifugal force is generated therefor increasing the amount of braking.

You also have a choice in the amount of b/blocks that can be used but this depends entirely on which Abu you own. You will either see a metal clutch plate (retains right spool bearing) with a two pin system to allocate two fibre b/blocks - or modern ones have plastic clutch plates housing six b/blocks which can be engaged or disengaged via a snap function. The more b/blocks engaged the more braking generated.

Line diameter also has a bearing, as does how brimmed the spool is with line (line-level). I often see people having casting problems because of over-spooling, but by removing x-amount of excessive line leaving a couple of mm's below the spool lip can transform the reels cast-ability to your favour.

Or you could simply clean out the spool bearings and either put a thicker viscosity oil in - or make your own flavour by formulating one for yourself. TSI mixes well with other oils.

It's basically trial and error until you learn how to tune your reel accordingly for your application.

Steve. ;)

fishhawk

thanks for the replies! 90% of the time where i shore fish the wind is 20-40 mph and allways in my face! lol And it's so much easier to snug 'em up (just at the starting point of 0 side play) and cast. I'm not talking about tightened to the point the spool shaft leaves the little indention in the brass shims, just snug.
I thought the brass being the softer material it would take the brunt of it. Normally I would cast with a tad bit of side play but man I don't get ideal conditions! Any thoughts?
All criticism welcome!
  Mark

oc1

I don't see how you're doing any harm if the shim is not being dimpled.  I once opened a used baitcaster and found the previous owner had replaced the factory brake blocks with sections of electric wire insulation.  The copper had been removed to make a plastic tube.  Had to hand it to the guy because they really slowed down the spool.  He must have been casting heavy weights too because there was an extra shim and the spool shaft had nearly drilled a hole in them.
-steve

fishhawk

Thanx Steve!....I too have used an assortment of materials for brake blocks (spray can nozzle extensions work perty good!) simply because they have gotten so expensive, and are easily lost! lol I have also seen shims made out of anything from beer cans to copper!
Mark

Fish-aholic

Mark, are you referring to using 7000 sized Abu's?

The 4th paragraph in my first response was in regard to metal/plastic clutch plates and the amount of b/blocks available is for 6500 sized reels.  :-\

The 7000 sizes have 4 pins to accommodate the b/blocks; how many are there currently in your reel and what are they, stock b/blocks, sections of straw or other?

What needs mindful consideration when using alternate methods for engineering b/blocks from materials such as short sectioned nozzle straws is the inside dia'. This is because the dia' might not be large enough to accommodate the pins they ride on. I have seen plenty of reels with such straws forced on and it renders them useless because they cannot function as a b/block due to losing the ability to slide freely along the pin. This scenario handicaps their ability to apply the braking friction needed and gained through centrifugal force.

Steve.



 




fishhawk

thanx steve! I have many sets of abu brakes from small to large and have found the old lew childre have the biggest brakes that I know of.
Tight fitting blocks don't go on my reels! lol Actually I was refering to the 7000, but now am working on slowing down my 8600, 90000, and 10000. Whereas they  have 4 tiny blocks with very little travel. What if I put big blocks in them??? There would be very small "slide" distance in the bigger abu's if you used the big blocks. How would this work?
thanx
   Mark

oc1

I don't think that the slide distance is important.  What is important is the mass/weight of the blocks and their cross-sectional area (footprint).

The old Lew's made by Shimano and then Ryobi have some really large plastic blocks (the blue ones and then the brown ones) but Lew's used a slightly thicker shaft for them to slide on.  At least the shaft is thicker than my ABU 5000 and 6000.  You can probably put a Lew's block on an ABU, but may not be able to put an ABU block on a Lew's.
-steve

fishhawk

Hey steve, you might be talking about abu c's .I know the spool shaft diameters are different from the bushing spool, but not sure about brake posts???
Please explain "footprints"
Thanx
  Mark

oc1

Yes, the old 'C' series.  Those are the only ABU I have.  I am on shaky ground here, but suspect that the diameter of the brake block and the amount of surface area contacting the metal race as they spin influences the amount of braking power.  This is in addition to the influence of the overall weight of the brake block.  Might be wrong about that though.
-steve

Fish-aholic

Quote from: fishhawk on March 27, 2016, 03:44:50 PM
thanx steve! I have many sets of abu brakes from small to large and have found the old lew childre have the biggest brakes that I know of.
Tight fitting blocks don't go on my reels! lol Actually I was refering to the 7000, but now am working on slowing down my 8600, 90000, and 10000. Whereas they  have 4 tiny blocks with very little travel. What if I put big blocks in them??? There would be very small "slide" distance in the bigger abu's if you used the big blocks. How would this work?
thanx
   Mark

Good to hear. Those Abu fibre b/blocks are fetching crazy money from some outlets in the UK (£5.50 posted for a pair) :o

Don't worry about the small amount of sliding distance along the accommodating pin, just as long as the b/blocks can fit on to it and move freely is the key. Only one way to find out.  ;)


Quote from: oc1Yes, the old 'C' series.  Those are the only ABU I have.  I am on shaky ground here, but suspect that the diameter of the brake block and the amount of surface area contacting the metal race as they spin influences the amount of braking power.  This is in addition to the influence of the overall weight of the brake block.  Might be wrong about that though.
-steve

Weight is more paramount in effectiveness than surface area.

Daiwa slosh reels have red b/blocks; one end is domed (less surface area), the other straight cut (more surface area), it doesn't matter which end faces the brake ring, the braking effect is the same.


mackereljoe

I had this dilemma with a 6000c and only having 2 brake block.  Problem resolved by adding magnet handle side, 3 1x5mm magnet.  4 was too much and significantly reduced distance.