130H drag upgrade

FatTuna · September 23, 2016, 12:45:42 AM

I ordered new parts to upgrade the drag on a pair of old 130H reels. The drag washers came attached to plates. The part is number 6DN-130. Mystic Reel Parts recommends this as a replacement to the old 6-130.

I removed the old metal plates and hard washers from the reel and installed the new drag plates. I also replaced the spool spring and belleville washers. Belleville washers are set (). I put it back together and now the reel has no free spool and the lever barely moves even with the preset backed off.

The new drag plates look to be thicker than the old metal plates. I suspect this might be the issue. When looking at the reel assembled, the spool looks to be shifted too far to the handle side.

Anyone ever done this upgrade before? Any advice?

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

FatTuna · September 23, 2016, 01:40:22 AM

So I just took apart the reel and spool again. First I checked to see if all the bearings were seated all the way. They are. Then I made sure the dogs were configured correctly. They are. Then I tried switching the belleville configuration. Didn't seem to do much. Then I compared the old metal washer + fiber washer vs the new drag plate. With both the metal and fiber together, they look pretty close. I compared the old spool spring to the new one. They appear to be close in height.

Here are some pictures:

Tightlines667 · September 23, 2016, 01:46:14 AM

I have done this upgrade a number of times. The spacing along the spool shaft can be a bit finicky. I believe the newer drag plate is wider, the newer Bellevilles are slightly thicker, and the newer bearings can be slightly bigger as well... total change with all components is like 0.1-0.6mm. This all leads to decreased space along the spool shaft, and loss of freespool. Your clicker may also be quieter after the upgrade.

Basically you just need to adjust the spacing by using slightly thinner bellevilles, or using 0.3mm thick shims whereever is appropriate.

I have gone as far as to actually file 0.1-0.6mm off of the bellevilles to get the height/spacing you are looking for.

It really is just a trial and error thing. Take it apart, make a minir adjustment, put it together, test, repeat.

FatTuna · September 23, 2016, 01:56:06 AM

Thanks John.

So after I correct the spacing issue, will that gap between the spool and side plate still be there?

I should also note that I'm using the original floating metal washer (41-130). That doesn't need to be swapped does it? Bearings are all the originals.

Tightlines667 · September 23, 2016, 02:31:26 AM

No, the gap should disappear. If you replaced your Bellevilles, try the old stack. If not try adding a shim to the left side plate, or outside of the left spool bearing.

If you don't have any shims you could try to make one out of a piece of aluminum can or some other thin/lightweight metal.

FatTuna · September 23, 2016, 02:43:22 AM

I think I just figured it out.

There were two aluminum gold plates inside the spool. I believe these need to be removed.

It now gets perfect free spool, no gap.

The irony is now it actually feels like it needs to be shimmed up.

Btw, if there was an aftermarket frame for these reels, that would be amazing. With the drag upgrade, the heavy duty gears, the heavy duty side plates, triple dog design, these reels would be bulletproof. I wonder if an ST frame would fit.

mizmo67 · September 23, 2016, 07:04:17 PM

I don't have photos of all the old design change parts for the 130H...

I think at one point the #6 was in two pieces..that gold plate, and a loose washer, set up against the 117's on each side with the 7A floater between. I think the gold plate was a 6A-130

Then the 6-130/6a-130 pieces became the metal with the HT100 attached 6D-130.
Then the 6DN-130 dura-drag washer plate.

After you took those plates out did you reset the bellevilles to ()() ?

FatTuna · September 23, 2016, 07:31:00 PM

Quote from: mizmo67 on September 23, 2016, 07:04:17 PM
I don't have photos of all the old design change parts for the 130H...

I think at one point the #6 was in two pieces..that gold plate, and a loose washer, set up against the 117's on each side with the 7A floater between. I think the gold plate was a 6A-130

Then the 6-130/6a-130 pieces became the metal with the HT100 attached 6D-130.
Then the 6DN-130 dura-drag washer plate.

After you took those plates out did you reset the bellevilles to ()() ?

I think I have it figured out.

Both reels are pretty old; made in 79. They had the old style drag. Two metal plates and what looked to be loose asbestos washers on top. Then those two gold plates screwed in. There is a floating metal washer in between.

With those two gold plates installed, the dura-drag washers weren't making contact with the floating metal disc. I believe they have to come out. The old metal washers too. I believe the dura-drag plate is all you need.

I reused the floating metal washer in between.

This one only has two bellevilles. I replaced them with new ones. I set them (). I experimented with different configurations: ()(), )))), ))), (((). The reel lost free spool with anything more than ().

They cleaned up pretty nice. Only issue is one of them has some gear wear but there is nothing I can do about that.

FatTuna · September 23, 2016, 07:34:54 PM

By the way, does anyone know the difference between dura-drag vs regular HT-100?

mizmo67 · September 23, 2016, 07:48:07 PM

HT100 and DuraDrag are both carbon fiber drags, with a difference in the tightness of the weave, I think.
The Dura is more accepting of using drag grease and I presume has better drag capability.
I don't have specific specs on the materials though.

Sorry, forgot the 130H only has (), was remembering the newer reels.

Tightlines667 · September 23, 2016, 08:00:17 PM

Quote from: FatTuna on September 23, 2016, 02:43:22 AM
I think I just figured it out.

There were two aluminum gold plates inside the spool. I believe these need to be removed.

It now gets perfect free spool, no gap.

The irony is now it actually feels like it needs to be shimmed up.

Btw, if there was an aftermarket frame for these reels, that would be amazing. With the drag upgrade, the heavy duty gears, the heavy duty side plates, triple dog design, these reels would be bulletproof. I wonder if an ST frame would fit.

That would do it.

Nice work!

I would ad a shim/thrust washer inside the old bellevilles, or replace w/the newer/slightly heavier ones, and maybe shim on the tailplate/outter drag.. new bellevilles and u likely won't need to shim at all.

The stands on these are solid, and really do a good job of preventing twisting of the reel (though they are heavy).

I wish they made this style reel seat for the smaller first gen Internationals. They are a weak point, and fatigue & fail frequently over time. Cal made a few in this image.

The ST series frames do not fit.

FatTuna · September 24, 2016, 03:28:36 PM

Mo, thanks for explaining the difference between the two types of drag washers.

The stands on these are heavy duty but they are also big reels. One of the stands is actually a bit tweaked. I think they get bent when people tighten the rod clamp down too hard. I keep seeing that on 14/0s. Personally, I prefer the full framed internationals. That's too bad about the ST frame not fitting. I've seen these 130H reels for sale for really cheap. With the ability to upgrade the drag, these are definitely a good jumping off point. I'm rebuilding these for a friend. I'll let you guys know how they hold up.