Are baitcaster difficult to service?

[steelfish]

you can always agitate manually: shake in a clear jar w/ tight lid & repeat until solvent runs clear (make sure jar/lid are not susceptible to the solvent you choose) -- less efficient, but it works for non-volume service

What parts of the reel you clean using this manual technique?

[exp2000]

Be advised that you need a proper tool to remove the spool pin that retains the pinion side spool bearing. Hedgehog Studio makes a nice compact one I like, or spool pin pliers from Boca.

Bend a spool shaft not using proper tools and it will be spendy.

I bought one of those from Hedgehog Studio, but was thoroughly disappointed.   It is not robust enough to remove pins from a full size reel, and the discription on their website does not make that clear. 

Sometimes they release these in more robust materials such as brass or even stainless. These are the ones you want. They are ideal for baitcasters.
~

[exp2000]

Im going to have to invest on an ultrasonic cleaner later down the line. An suggestions to clean without the US cleaner?

~

[handi2]

Down the road when you really get into this all the time invest in TSI 301 and TSI 321 oils.

You can put a little TSI 301 in a container, clear or not, drop the bearings in and shake. Let them sit while doing something else. If the bearings were good to start with they will be ready to install. This is a quick method if your not going to open the shields.

Keith

[TheReelShop]

Be advised that you need a proper tool to remove the spool pin that retains the pinion side spool bearing. Hedgehog Studio makes a nice compact one I like, or spool pin pliers from Boca.

Bend a spool shaft not using proper tools and it will be spendy.

Yea I started looking at the hedgehog ones. Going to take a look at Boca's plier.

Im going to have to invest on an ultrasonic cleaner later down the line. An suggestions to clean without the US cleaner?

Toothbrushes, jelly jars, solvents, and simple green...

Honestly, if a reel repair person ever uses an ultrasonic cleaner -- they will wonder why they did not use one before.

Exceptions would be a basic service without disassembling the entire reel -- perfectly acceptable and a good technique when done properly.

However, I prefer a complete service/restoration whenever possible -- no comebacks for me that way.

It is surprising how little a decent US cleaner costs these days.

Here is a good one for $113.89 on ebay -- and there are others as well.

SS, 6 Liters, timer and heat --

Be careful with the solutions, particularly anodized or plastic parts -- experiment first.

Lets face it -- this is the cost of one small, average reel.

Best,

Fred

I'm looking into investing in one once the demand for reel service increases. Surprisingly its not active here in Miami considering fishing is big down here and I'm not too aware of reel service shops around here.

Im going to have to invest on an ultrasonic cleaner later down the line. An suggestions to clean without the US cleaner?

~

going to look into that. so overall basically its not too common to open bearings on baitcaster reels? in our regular conventionals and others where open spool bearings are a plus why not here?

Down the road when you really get into this all the time invest in TSI 301 and TSI 321 oils.

You can put a little TSI 301 in a container, clear or not, drop the bearings in and shake. Let them sit while doing something else. If the bearings were good to start with they will be ready to install. This is a quick method if your not going to open the shields.

Keith

yea I have already grouped up some tools for the future if this works out for me. Will look into this as well.

[oc1]

My Hedghog tool is starting to wear out and get loose.  Hopefully, that reel design with three spool bearings will become obsolete soon.  Life is easier when you don't need tools to pop out the spool bearings for a quick cleaning.
-steve

[exp2000]

so overall basically its not too common to open bearings on baitcaster reels? in our regular conventionals and others where open spool bearings are a plus why not here?

Anything with a retaining clip is fair game, but the smaller the bearing, the more fiddly the task is.

You can always pry off pressed shields if you are happy to use open bearings.
~

[oc1]

There's nothing wrong with an open bearing, but sometimes you can mess up a really good bearing by removing the seals.  It doesn't take much pressure at all to warp the cage.  I don't remove the seal unless the bearing is not performing well and there is nothing else to loose.,
-steve

[exp2000]

There's nothing wrong with an open bearing, but sometimes you can mess up a really good bearing by removing the seals.  It doesn't take much pressure at all to warp the cage.  I don't remove the seal unless the bearing is not performing well and there is nothing else to loose.,
-steve

Just keep your approach shallow and you will avoid contacting the bearing cage.

It helps to open up a gap with a scalpel first so you can get in there with something more robust.

Sometimes pressed shields can be very stubborn to remove.

~

[handi2]

There's nothing wrong with an open bearing, but sometimes you can mess up a really good bearing by removing the seals.  It doesn't take much pressure at all to warp the cage.  I don't remove the seal unless the bearing is not performing well and there is nothing else to loose.,
-steve

Just keep your approach shallow and you will avoid contacting the bearing cage.

It helps to open up a gap with a scalpel first so you can get in there with something more robust.

Sometimes pressed shields can be very stubborn to remove.

~

For the small pressed in shields i use the tip of a razor blade first then the scalpel as mentioned above. This gets the shields up so you can use a  small flat head screwdriver.

[foakes]

For the small pressed in shields i use the tip of a razor blade first then the scalpel as mentioned above. This gets the shields up so you can use a  small flat head screwdriver.
[/quote]

I use an exacto knife to get the shield started -- then either a old knife or a small screwdriver to get them out.

Occasionally, I have needed to carefully poke a hole in the shield to get them started.

Whenever possible, just one shield is removed, and one stays in place.  After cleaning, and regreasing, the shield side goes towards the greatest threat of water intrusion.

Occasionally, if not too bad, and I am certain the bearings are operating at their best -- both shields stay in place, are cleaned, then dropped into a small jar of synthetic oil for a few minutes before reassembly.

All larger, open bearings -- and any bearings that will be used in the salt -- always have at least one shield removed, cleaned, and packed with Marine Grease.  And all bearings are tested for proper operation before reinstalling.

Best,

Fred

[TheReelShop]

This has become a great informative thread. Thanks for all the tips.

[exp2000]

I bought one of those from Hedgehog Studio, but was thoroughly disappointed.   It is not robust enough to remove pins from a full size reel, and the discription on their website does not make that clear.  

Sometimes they release these in more robust materials such as brass or even stainless. These are the ones you want. They are ideal for baitcasters.[/quote]

http://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product/2

The cross wrench comes with high rigidity stainless steel that has been more strengthened than ever before.
The wrench length and screw part have been revised, which enables safer and smoother desorption of the pin.
Also the Remover has been improved in part to be compatible to many kinds of spools.
It is the new standard of spool bearing replacement tools designed to be useful.

You even have a choice of colors
~

[oc1]

My hedgehog is starting to wear out the threads on the blue aluminum block.
-steve

[exp2000]

My hedgehog is starting to wear out the threads on the blue aluminum block.
-steve

"Renewed version" of Spool Bearing Pin Remover!
Stainless-steel screw hole makes a substantial improvement in durability of the screw.

I use two units because it saves you a lot of time from having to always swap press ends so there is much less wear and tear on the block thread too.
~