Corrosion X, Reel X, yamaha blue grease questions

[LetItFly]

Hi Alan,

I'm a newbie to this site and general reel maintenance. I love fishing but growing, was never taught how to maintain reels other than rinsing them down good and little lube corrosion block here and there. Outsides only.  Just recently got out of a drought from fishing so now I'm trying to learn to do all my reel maintainences on my own.

So I have corrosion x only, I wanted to know what other greases or lubes I need to basically to a general reel service. I really don't need 10 different greases and lubes just to know the main ones that I need. Also where to apply what lubes/greases on reel parts and how much to put. Sorry for the simple questions to others but to me I just want to be sure. I seen here an there on the forums answers but I want it all to be in one just simpler for me... Selfish I guess haha.

What's the best tools to apply each lube and grease? Where to apply? Looking for casting abilities but doesn't need to be outrageously far.  Please help with some in information? Hopefully I can get the answer I was looking for to help me...

By the way, I love this site! Very informational and helpful.

[akfish]

You can get by with just two: Corrosion-X and Cal's Grease. Use the oil (Corrosion-X) for everything that turns fast (ball bearings, level winds, etc.) and the grease for things that move slow (gears) as well as to grease the drag washers and paint on internal metal surfaces. Cal's Grease isn't cheap so you can save a few bucks by using something else for everything except drag washers, but unless you do lots of reels, the money you save would be insignificant. I run a shop and use only 4 products: Corrosion-X, Speed-X as a faster oil, Cal's Grease and Penn X-1R grease, but really: Just two is all you need.

[LetItFly]

Would it be better to have the liquid form corrosion x instead of the aerosol can?

[Norcal Pescador]

Would it be better to have the liquid form corrosion x instead of the aerosol can?

The liquid form is better in my opinion, because lubing with the light oil only takes one drop at a time, and usually one drop is all you need for a bearing. If you can get a little squeeze bottle with a dropper tip, you'll do fine. For degreasing, if fumes aren't an issue, a can of brake cleaner (non-chlorinated preferred) works wonders and you can pick up a can at WalMart (SuperTech brand) for 2 bucks.
Akfish nailed it on what's essential - Cal's and CorrosionX!

[Jim]

I stopped using CorrosionX when I found Penn Synthetic Reel Oil. I use it for all bearings, unbelievable corrosion protection in a very light viscosity oil.
Cal's for drag washers, but I like the Penn Precision Reel Grease for everything else just because it's blue and I can see exactly where it is (and isn't).

[kamuwela]

corrosion x and corrosion x heavy duty is great stuff. i use yamalube on all moving parts regular x on clickers and lock buttons. been testing heavy duty on side plates for protection purposes. corrosion x is sold by the gallon for around 80 bucks. i use a plastic ketsup bottle, like at the hot dog stand. cut the tip to desired opening and spray aerosol into bottle and now you can use it by the drop.the heavy duty corrosion x i apply with a flux brush to all surfaces for salt protection. i am currently trying this in place of yamalube on side plates. will get my results in a few months. as soon as ahi season is over, late summer.                             aloha
                                                       kamu

[Nessie Hunter]

I run a low budget Hobby/shop for reel repair. 
Swamped one week nothing the next, kind of thing.

I started very low budget with intentions of doing just my own reels, so know what your saying...
I read Alan's tutorials copiously and did what I could afford to be aligned and up to date...

Found LubrMatic Marine Corrosion Wheel bearing grease at Auto parts store. cheap and effective (convenient for me also)..
Has worked great for packing bearings (non spool bearings), and salt-proofing the interior of reels etc...
1 pound can has lasted about 6 yrs so far, and still plenty left..

I use a Flux brush, small brush, metal handle from same parts store. 
Cut down bristles a little to add some strength.
Still packing bearings by hand, but now for long.  I have my eye on Alan's bearing system, Soon!!!

Oils, I am now using Oust Met-ol for Spool Bearings & some TSI 301 (also to clean & degrease bearings etc).. 
Also Reel-X (bit cheaper then Oust)...

Nothing but Cals Drag Grease for Drag washers. 
To expensive for me to use for anything else, and not sure of its Salt Resistance.....

One drop of oil in Spool bearings after cleaning.  (I normally oil them out of reel and make sure & spin them as I ad oil to spread it good).

Very light painting of Marine Grease on Interior, just enough to coat very lightly (like a film).
Gears and all metal parts get same 'film'.  This insures no water contact to any metal parts.

Level winds get a good cleaning, some need to be taken apart to do this, others dont..
1 or 2 drops of Reel X on worm gear and 1 on the bars & cover they ride on. 
Work that in good to spread and even it out..

If I had to have only what I truly NEEDED..
 
It would be a good quality "Marine" grease, Oust oil, Cals drag grease.
That would cover all the necessary jobs IMHO..

FYI the Oust Met-ol bottle has a metal Worm Blower or Hypodermic style tip... 
Excellent at 1 drop applications and reaching things... 
I have several old saved Oust bottles that I use for other products, even TSI 301 in one of them...

Oh, I also use kitchen nylon (green) scrubby pads to clean some surfaces, Drag plates and some Gears (under & inner Main gear, & drag plates often needs it) A little TSI 301 & scrubby does the job well.....

Obviously my morning coffee has kicked in!!!   Better stop before I run on any more!!  lol



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