Ball bearing maintenance for Penn 113HL???

Started by chrondon, June 15, 2011, 03:34:34 AM

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chrondon

Can the ball bearings for a Penn Senator 113HL be removed for maintenance?  I can't seem to easily remove the bearings and am concerned about potentially damaging them if I try.

Any advise regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks,

Charles

Norcal Pescador

#1
Charles -
They can be removed but it takes a bit of leverage. On the non-handle side, unscrew the bearing from the side plate and you'll see a pressed in ring. Put a prying tool in between the ring and the bearing underneath and work the ring out going around the bearing cup and working it out as you go. Look at the 6th picture for a handy tool: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=3.0  After the ring is out, the bearing comes out easily.
For the handle-side bearing, you have to remove the bridge assembly then you can push the bearing cup out with your finger or other blunt object. The bearing comes out the same way.
IMPORTANT: Be nice to the bearing cups and save them. IF you're lucky, you can get new bearings with the cups. The cups are getting hard to find!
When reassembling the bearing cup assembly, put the cover ring in with the shouldered side in, flat side out. Press it in with the dowel or end of a screwdriver handle.
Rob
Rob

Measure once, cut twice. Or is it the other way around? ::)

"A good man knows his limits." - Inspector Harry Callahan, SFPD

Bryan Young

I'll like to add that if you are going to open up the bearings, I prefer leaving the bearing shield out so that if water gets in, it has a way to get out.  I've seen a few bearings go bad because of this.

Also, in some cases, if you know the bearing is good and plan to keep the shields on, I force pressure corrosionX in the bearing while in the bearing cup, close it up and fill the cup with corrosionX, hold the sideplate vertical so the excess runs out, then reassemble.  You will have a wet lubrication system with corrosionX as your wet lubricant.

:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

chrondon

Thanks for the advice fellas....I'll give it a try this weekend and let you know how it turns out. 


Gman_WC

#4
Quote from: norcal pescador on June 15, 2011, 03:52:58 AM
Charles -
They can be removed but it takes a bit of leverage. On the non-handle side, unscrew the bearing from the side plate and you'll see a pressed in ring. Put a prying tool in between the ring and the bearing underneath and work the ring out going around the bearing cup and working it out as you go. Look at the 6th picture for a handy tool: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=3.0  After the ring is out, the bearing comes out easily.
For the handle-side bearing, you have to remove the bridge assembly then you can push the bearing cup out with your finger or other blunt object. The bearing comes out the same way.
IMPORTANT: Be nice to the bearing cups and save them. IF you're lucky, you can get new bearings with the cups. The cups are getting hard to find!
When reassembling the bearing cup assembly, put the cover ring in with the shouldered side in, flat side out. Press it in with the dowel or end of a screwdriver handle.
Rob
I can get the left , non handle side bearing out after removing the ring. The handle side bearing looks like it's just in the cup. I've worked at it for a few hours and I'm ready to throw in the towel for the night. Got my bearing backers all set up and ready to do the dirty work. I'm kinda frustrated and thought I'd get this 113H narrow back together tonight. This thing will not budge. -g
Walnut Creek, CA

alantani

bryan has seen me struggle with these as well.  i simply do not have a good, consistent method of extracting these bearings when they are corroded into the bearing cups.   :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Gman_WC

That's the kicker Alan, there is no corroson. The right side bearing has no ring like the bearing on the left.
It just appears (to me) to be in the cup.
I've tried putting the bearing cup and bearing into a socket attached to vise grips, and then pull with the bearing remover from the small hole end
so the bearing cup is not crushed.
Something so small is giving me a big headache. -g
Walnut Creek, CA

Bryan Young

me too.  just keep at it going around and around. 

Is the bearing still good?  What are you plans for the bearing?  If the bearing is still good, and plan to use corrosionX or reelX, use the reelX bottle, insert the tip in the center of the bearing and squeeze.  Keep on putting in until you see bubble coming out of the bearing and corrosionX/reelX and your are done. 

:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

ReelSpeed

Here is something I use when I have a really stuck bearing that I actually think could come out with the right force..

I just take a nail..something thinner than the ID of the bearing..bend the sharp end over in a vise or with some pliers and then use a vice or a hammer to flatten that end out.  hopefully this should leave you with a nub that is probably around 1/8" long.  Then I just take a pair of needle nose or visegrips and grip right under the head of the nail and then pull up.  the head of the nail stops the pliers from slipping off and you can usually put a good amount of force on the bearing.  A lot of times, I just turn the bearing cap upside down in the penn sideplate, slide the tool through the side plate and into the bearing and then put the sideplate between my feet  ;D , and pull.  I will say though, if the bearing is stuck, that little cup is one of the hardest things to get  bearing out of.

Hopefully something here helps.

Aaron 
Reelspeed Reel Service & Repair
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
(562) 261-5190

Gman_WC

#9
I got tired of using sockets to hold the cup/bearings while pulling. This is what I came up with.
A simple slice of plywood solved my issues. It makes the task of holding the bearing cup down so
much easier.
The 1/2" works for the 4/0 113h and the 5/8" for my 146 squidder. Alan took good care of the TLD 30II.
(I had to slip in some newly serviced reels for the up coming Baja trip)  ;D
Walnut Creek, CA

Norcal Pescador

As a last resort, I put an "L" shaped bearing puller like in Alan's tool tray and clamp it in the edge of a  vise with the "L" pointing down. I hook the bearing on the lip of the tool and insert a punch that will fit inside the bearing and tap on the inside of the bearing cap until it comes off. The cap isn't perfect any more but it's still usable. :-\
Rob

Measure once, cut twice. Or is it the other way around? ::)

"A good man knows his limits." - Inspector Harry Callahan, SFPD

Gman_WC

It's a crap shoot getting the bearing out of the cup. I'm just worried that I'll damage the bearing, the cup, or both with to much force or pulling a shield off to inspect the guts.
I may be tempted to just replace the bearings in the near future on all my reals.
-g
Walnut Creek, CA

Taily

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1613.15

Top of the second page. It worked for me recently. Might be worth a try.

Regards,
Dave
Nunc est bibendum....

ShoreKasterHI

#13
I have a busted up right side plate i just take the cup and instead of putting it in the way it would go, i reverse it, stick my homemade "L" shape bearing puller and yank like mad! You can use the plate as leverage. I use my feet on the edges of the plate. The cup wont go threw the hole only the bearing. I only use this as a last straw especially if the bearing is corroded in the cup.

*Whoops this is mentioned above already lol. Maybe someone could machine something to hold the cup with ears to put our feet on so we dont have to use the plates?*