"locked" jigmaster after line loading

[jlezama]

Hello!
      I just upgraded my jigmaster to a penn 99 tib frame, SS Sleeve and double dog bridge (from Pro challenger)  and new drags... the whole set! I serviced it replaced the parts, everything seemed fine. Took it to my tackle shop to load it with spectra.
Everything seemed fine until the last 20 yards. The reel just locked in to position, Handle would not move not even in free spool. Took it apart and the sleeve was locked in place. Not only that but took some effort to take the retaining pin out to lift the sleeve from the post. Once I did that and took the sleeve out I noticed some roughness on the bridge post, looked like forceful scratching possibly from the inside of the sleeve (?). Took me some time to sand the roughness. I put the sleeve back and the pin, making sure it made it all the way in.  Even then, the sleeve would not move as smooth as the original brass sleeve, but not too bad though. The questions are, has this happened to anyone before? Any recommendations? Any issues you foresee with the sanding I did? In retrospect I should have photo-documented it...
Thanks for the help
Juan

[Shark Hunter]

Juan,
If the fit of the sleeve is too tight, it will bind when it gets warm and expands.
Sounds like you have too tight of a fit.
I run into this a lot and have the luxury of swapping bridges until I get one I like.
Your other option is to file the pin some to give you a little more clearance.
Aftermarket parts require some fitting.
Sometimes the stainless sleeves are double drilled to find the sweet spot on the sleeve.

[JRD]

It's possible there was a bur although funny it only affected the reel after say 300 yards of winding or more.  Could have been insufficient lubrication as well or simply a tight pin.  Take it back apart and run a quick tip around the bridge sleeve inside and see if it catches anywhere, that will id any burs you may have.  There was a debate awhile ago about lubrication on the sleeves and I believe most guys opted for grease.

And your right pictures always help.

[Shark Hunter]

I grease mine with penn blue and then add a drop or two of Reel X in the handle nut hole.
If there was no lubrication on the sleeve shaft, that would heat it up quicker than normal.

[PacRat]

Stainless is real cool because it doesn't rust (much) but that comes at a cost...it tends to gall. In other words; it's a very 'sticky' metal. This use to be a big problem with stainless steel automatic handguns. They solved this problem with metallurgy and found stainless alloys that played well together. I think Darren is right on the money when he says a tight shaft will heat up and swell which will lead to the galling. What did you lube your shaft with and how aggressive was the guy winding the line? I might need to re-think what I'm lubing my shaft with.
Thanks for bringing this up.
Mike

[PacRat]

I swiped this from another site:
"SO long as you have the two similar stainless steels at different hardness levels and use good lube with adequate running clearance you will have no problems. Good thing slides and frames are not the same hardness.

Lube and running clearance can be best appreciated when one knows the mechanics of galling. Galling occurs when as everyone knows, two similar pieces of steel come into contact with each other under dynamic conditions. Machining of steel always leaves high and low spots in the finish, we refer to the finish in RMS (root means squared ) numbers. so an RMS finish of 125 is coarser than a RMS finish of 32. That means a finish of RMS 125 has higher peaks and valleys in the finish than say a RMS of 32. When two pieces of steel slide against each other under marginal or nonexistent lubrication conditions they can make contact. It is this contact that can create the problems. When the high spots of the two pieces meet and touch, sometimes they "weld together". In a firearm, the slide moves and the frame is stationary. When this welding has taken place, the slide continues to move, causing one of the high spots to rip loose from its original piece and is now stuck on the other piece, reducing clearance between the two pieces at that point, and creating an even higher spot on the other one which allows for even more interference and galling to take place. It will continue in this manner until the two parts seize and can no longer slide due to no clearance at the built up area.

When the heat treat of the two steels is different enough, probably in the range of 10 or more points on the Rc scale, their affinity to "weld" together is greatly reduced. Also, the smoother the finish, the less peaks and valleys to worry about.

The whole idea behind lubrication is to keep the parts from actually touching. This goes for all machinery, not just guns. Modern gun lubes will all do a creditable job of handling the loads imposed on them. All they have to do is be able to withstand the hydrodynamic, or hydrostatic loads placed on them without "squeezing" out. When lubes work properly, they carry the load between the two parts preventing the parts from actually making contact, also known as boundary film lubrication.

What happens to lubes in a gun under microscopic conditions is up for debate, but this is my take on it. Remember the peaks and valleys? I think the valleys act as a sort of lube reservoir, both on the slide and frame. As peaks cross valleys they pick up a bit of the lube and are floated over the other peaks. As the slide moves back and forth it replenishes the valleys in the two pieces."

[jlezama]

Hey Guys.
Thanks to Mike, JRD and Mr Shark Hunter for their replies. You both are right on the money. I do not know what Alan uses for his sleeves but will be a good question to ask. I used reel X for the lubing. I put the lube from the oil nut if my recollection is correct.
My guess is that the tackle shop clerk went pretty aggressive on the line winding, otherwise this amount of heat would not have caused this expansion.
I do not think I will crank the handle "that fast" when reeling a fish so I think I am good. 
I wonder if grease would have been better... it also makes me think why it does not happen with brass (since it is an alloy)
Thanks so much for your knowledge and replies!
Juan

[sdlehr]

it also makes me think why it does not happen with brass (since it is an alloy)

It probably does, but brass is softer than steel.

[oc1]

That is really good information Mike.
-steve

[Dominick]

That is really good information Mike.
-steve

Yep, terrific.  Dominick