5000D...The Forgotten Ambassadeur

[mo65]

   The 5000D is actually new to me...I never had one. Don't even remember seeing them around when I was a kid. Everybody's dad had a red 5000, we had the black C models and later loved the 5500 and 6500 Cs, but the D just wasn't popular in my neck of the woods. Judging by what I've read on forums they weren't very popular anywhere.  After getting my mitts on one I'm having a hard time believing this. The design fits Largemouth Bass fishing perfectly. The only thing I don't get is that tiny coin edged drag wheel...seriously...who thought up that mess?? The first pic is the eBay special I grabbed to start this project.

 

   Taking the reel apart revealed a few surprises, like the spool bushings. Since the previous C models had ball bearings, this seems like a step backward. This doesn't really concern me, as I get equal results from bushings as bearings, but the masses would have a tissy over this.

 

   Taking a closer look, there was a lot of grime on the bridge, and there appeared to be surface rust on the stand, but I think these things will clean up fine. The drive system is very interesting...much different compared to most reels. Note the drive gear is keyed to the drive shaft and the click wheel is what slips under drag. This leaves the handle spinning backward as a fish peels line, possibly the inspiration for the drag wheel, but I'd still prefer a star.

 

   Ahh...nice clean parts! That bridge and stand shined up nicely. You'll note I'm changing the drag to greased carbon fiber, so lets take a closer look at the drag stack components.

 

   The photo below shows the original drag stack. A single hard phenolic washer between the gear and the click wheel. Also a bronze washer between the click wheel and drive shaft. Not much to offer strong braking power there.

 

   I trimmed a Penn #6-155 HT 100 to fit inside the bottom of the click wheel. Used another one between the click wheel and drive gear. Not sure if I notice any power increase, but it's silky smooth. Also note that main gear...appears to be a bronze bushing inside it. Maybe as a deterrent to electrolysis since the gear never spins on the shaft?

 

   The handle pictured below is not stock, and I know I've seen them before, but I can't find any info anywhere. If someone knows anything about these Ranger handles, please sound off.

 

   I thought all parts were accounted for on this reel, but upon reassembly I noticed I had no end screw for the drive shaft.

 

   On the left is the stock screw. On the right is a sub I scrounged up.

 

   All finished and spooled with hi-vis Trilene Big Game 20lb., this dude is ready to go cat fishing. That's right...the perfect bass fishing reel...is going cat fishing. I love bending the rules!

 

   

[steelfish]

............. That's right...the perfect bass fishing reel...is going cat fishing. I love bending the rules!

your such a renegade bandit !! 


nice work the little toy, compadre, Im an avid abu ambassadeur fanboy too

[foakes]

Good work, Mike!

If any other parts are needed, just let me know so I could send a few your way.

Most ABU round baitcaster parts are pretty standard.  

And they do wear out — particularly shims, bushings, or missing parts.

Best,

Fred

[xjchad]

Mo,
You always amaze me at how sparkling clean you can get everything!  What's your secret?
Nice reel!! 

[thorhammer]

That's some pretty work, Mo! I have one I got from Pops 30 years ago and never was real sure what to do with it....seems like a good flounder drifting reel like a 109, the only thing I would use a reel with DD for. I think i have a stock handle you are welcome to, because I know there is NO WAY Fred Oakes has an Abu stock handle in that little stash of parts , but I like the white....ole skool...(my Abu parts box consists of some shims and a dozen handles I swapped for power handles lol).

[mo65]

You always amaze me at how sparkling clean you can get everything!  What's your secret?

   It's the same simple formula I've posted about many times Chad. Just plain old warm water, dish soap, baking soda, and a toothbrush.

I have one I got from Pops 30 years ago and never was real sure what to do with it....seems like a good flounder drifting reel like a 109, the only thing I would use a reel with DD for. 

   This one isn't truly a direct drive John. It disengages the handle when the button is pushed just like a regular freespool. It's sort of a hybrid direct drive.

[Gfish]

Very interesting drag knob, I kinda like the idea a that. Is it easy to torque down n' back out?
I'll take bushings on the spool anyday. Wonder what the D stands for, C = b.bearings...
"Ja, dat's a ole skool reel for sure".

[akfish]

The 5000D (and 4000D) were veery popular among steelhead fishermen in the Pacific Northwest.

[foakes]

D = Direct drive - Drag works only when your hand is off the handle grips. (For example 5000D)

Best,

Fred

[mo65]

Very interesting drag knob, I kinda like the idea a that. Is it easy to torque down n' back out?

    That is my biggest complaint with it G...I actually cut my finger trying to tighten it down...it's very stiff. Now I really know why I love to put larger drag stars on my reels. The larger the wheel, the easier it is to turn.
   If anyone has a tip on how to get the drag wheel to turn easier I'd be much obliged. I tried putting a delrin washer under it, but that was a bust. It's not a matter of friction making it stiff. It's because there is no leverage. Ask those old salts why they put a wrench over the star when torquing it down.

Most ABU round baitcaster parts are pretty standard. 

   Indeed Fred...you've got me thinking. Maybe the answer is to simply relace the drag wheel with an ABU drag star. I'll bet it would screw right on!

[nelz]

Cool Mo! I've never actually seen one of these except for online. Always wondered what that drag system's design looked like. What I'm seeing looks like the gears are always in direct drive, so I believe the handle turns knuckle-buster when drag is being pulled, right?

Since only the anti-reverse holds the drag disks, (none found in the drive gear) the drag only engages when the AR is engaged. So simple, it's brilliant!  Hope I got it right???

Nice work and great pics.

[mo65]

What I'm seeing looks like the gears are always in direct drive, so I believe the handle turns knuckle-buster when drag is being pulled, right?
Since only the anti-reverse holds the drag disks, (none found in the drive gear) the drag only engages when the AR is engaged?

   Correct Nelz, I believe it will work great for catfishing, where drag is usually only pulled in short bursts. Hooking a big tuna on one of these reels might leave you bleeding though.
   Did you notice the main on this reel is not shiny at all?(like that 5000c I rebuilt) It looks like pot metal, but is definitely steel, I did the magnet test this time!

[nelz]

Hey, speaking of catfishing, I just got back from a trip to Alabama. One thing I wanted to do while there was catch a big catfish, (never caught a cat before). Even threw a little Penn 930 I just refurbished into my suitcase to catch it on (borrowed a pole). Well low and behold, just take a look at my new avatar... scratch that off my bucket-list!

[oc1]

That's a new one on me Mo.  So, the AR dog engages with the click wheel, right?  Star or no star, you better have the drag set just right before hooking into that monster.  When something is pulling drag you would have to either stop the spool with your thumb or get it out of gear before you can grab the handle to make any drag adjustment.  Pretty weird.

Chad, I think Mo's secret is his photography.  He can make anything look good.
-steve

[happyhooker]

You're a baaad man , mo.

Frank