Replacing a handle knob on a US 113.

[Tiddlerbasher]

Almost any oil helps when drilling and tapping the harder steels like stainless. I have used rape seed oil/canola alot it works just fine. WD40 works pretty good on aluminium.

[Alto Mare]

Chris, you are absolutely correct.  I hope I didn't sound as TSI 321 is the only way to go.
I'm not a machinist by any means.
I have cutting oils, WD40 and a few more that I've been using and most get the job done.
I was just surprised that a single drop of TSI321 had no smoke at all and I didn't have to  add more.

Best,

Sal

[Fishy247]

« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2019, 04:54:04 PM »
Reply with quoteQuote 



Quote from: Fishy247 on January 22, 2019, 09:20:07 AM


Quote

I want to mention a drop of TSI 321 has been doing wonders when drilling stainless steel

That stuff is amazing, isn't it?

Mike, was that you that recommended using it? That stuff doesn't smoke much at low speed, it helps quite a bit when drilling stainless steel.

Sal

I don't think it was me, Sal, as I don't really do too much drilling of stainless. I do use it for just about everything else and now I'm going to try it for drilling too!

[sdlehr]

Cool, Sal. I might try that with one of these metal drill bits I've got....

[Tiddlerbasher]

Chris, you are absolutely correct.  I hope I didn't sound as TSI 321 is the only way to go.
I'm not a machinist by any means.
I have cutting oils, WD40 and a few more that I've been using and most get the job done.
I was just surprised that a single drop of TSI321 had no smoke at all and I didn't have to  add more.

Best,

Sal

I didn't mean to sound as if I was 'having a go at you' Sal - In fact the opposite
I had just never thought to give the TSI321 a try - I shall now
Chris.

[Alto Mare]

Chris, you are absolutely correct.  I hope I didn't sound as TSI 321 is the only way to go.
I'm not a machinist by any means.
I have cutting oils, WD40 and a few more that I've been using and most get the job done.
I was just surprised that a single drop of TSI321 had no smoke at all and I didn't have to  add more.

Best,

Sal

I didn't mean to sound as if I was 'having a go at you' Sal - In fact the opposite
I had just never thought to give the TSI321 a try - I shall now
Chris.

Not at all Chris, I echoed what you've said about other types of oil.
Let's face it, not everyone is willing to invest that much for better oil.
We are cool...as always.🙂

[Cuttyhunker]

Sal,
A question about handles, I found myself an old 200 Surfer with a yardage marked stand in good mechanical shape, but the handle shaft is rusted solid to the sleeve and the base of the post has been broken free from the base, so now the knob, sleeve, post and bottom of the post all turn.  The post is not coming free from the base so it looks okay on the shelf but funky when you handle it. Is there a technique or a shop that can address and correct this?  I really want to save the chocolate football knob.
Thanks,
Bob

[Alto Mare]

Sal,
A question about handles, I found myself an old 200 Surfer with a yardage marked stand in good mechanical shape, but the handle shaft is rusted solid to the sleeve and the base of the post has been broken free from the base, so now the knob, sleeve, post and bottom of the post all turn.  The post is not coming free from the base so it looks okay on the shelf but funky when you handle it. Is there a technique or a shop that can address and correct this?  I really want to save the chocolate football knob.
Thanks,
Bob

Sorry Bob, I just saw this.
You will have a hard time trying to fix the same shaft, the best solution that I know of would be to remove the knob and install it on a similar handle.
It isn't easy, but could definitely be done.
Of course there is always a chance the knob might crack, but on these smaller guys I've been having pretty good results.

If you don't have a press, or didn't want to try it, you could send the handle to me and I could try for you.

Just let me know.

Sal

[Cuttyhunker]

Thanks Sal, here is a shot and looking closely you can see the handle shaft isn't quite square to the #24 crank.  The reel is up in my summer place and it will be the spring before I can put my hands on it.  The foot is marked 200yds No 9. Would love to keep the reel original and fix post/sleeve issue.  I'll give you a call when I get back up north.
Thanks Again,
Bob

[Alto Mare]

Oh, now I see what you mean Bob, that might be the first Surfmaster 200 .
Here is the problem:
The inner post sits below the oil port, trying to peen that post back tight, you will need to secure the tip on the opposite side.
To do so, you will need to remove the oil port, but doing so will ruined your knob .

Its a tough one, if it means that much to you, I would take it to someone that works with metal.
In the mean time, I will keep my eye open, in case I see one.
I checked what I have and no luck.

Sal

[Cuttyhunker]

The stand is what caught my eye with the yardage of no 9 linen the reel would accept.  I've learned from Mike's writings that the Squidder, first year had the open Long Beach stand in only 39 then to the stronger clamp stand like mine in 40. Surfmasters came out in 40, so my guess is pre war too, 40-42 unless there is a more precise known trait for dating.