D-A-M Quick Super 270 with line counter, a look inside

[festus]

Never really needed a conventional reel with a line counter, but curiosity got the best of me, never really seen a spinner with the l/c.

This reel came with the original box and papers along with a plastic bag containing a couple washers and a spare bail spring.  It had been used very little, clean, but not in NIB status.


Removing the handle is usually one of my first steps in tearing down a reel.  It's one of the dreaded chores with a Quick, but with a 3/32" punch, small claw hammer and some patience, the pin came out with some coaxing.



Removing the washer known as the spring ring.


Removing the handle nut.


Removing the plate cover.



Making a note that the screws from the handle side on this reel are shorter than those on the other side.


Removing the bearing cover.  Same old dirty brown grease that I've seen in all D-A-M Quicks.



Punching out the driving wheel pin.



I always disassemble the anti-reverse components for cleaning and fresh lube, but I didn't see any possible way to take it apart.  Usually the ball unscrews, but not so on this one.

If anyone knows something I don't, please tell me.


A look inside the housing.  Underneath all this is the line counter.


Removing the slide screw detaches the axle.




Removing slide.


I failed to get a picture of the removal of the worm wheel, but afterward the line counter is removed.


Removing the rotor nut.


Removing the spring washer.


Removing the driving washer.


A look inside the rotor and bail trip lever assembly.  Rotor slipped off very easily.


A look at what's under the rotor.  According to the schematic this is known as the switch ring.


Removing the switch ring for access to the pinion and ball bearing.





It took some scrubbing with a toothbrush and copper brush along with Simple Green and Dawn dishwashing liquid, but the parts cleaned up fairly well.


Pinion gear and bearing back into place.


Rotor back in place.  The bail was working as good as new, so I didn't see any point in servicing it.


Line counter back in place.  I partially disassembled it, flushed it good with WD-40 and relubed it with Ardent Reel Oil.  I didn't want to go scrubbing and knock anything out of whack, but it was turning freely.


Worm wheel with pin is reinserted.


Reattaching the slide to the axle.


Reattaching the case cover.  A punch inserted into the empty screw holes makes alignment easier.



Reattaching the handle assembly.



A look at the line counter gauge.  This reel is the export model that first appeared in 1954. This thing is almost as old as me.  According to the specs, monofilament with a diameter of 0.020" is needed for the counter to function properly. (But I'm skeptical).    25 lb. test Berkley Big Game mono would fit the bill.  Normally I would seldom spool anything over 17 lb mono on a spinning reel no matter how big it is.


Got a couple more functioning Super 270 and another parts reel but this one is my favorite.  It doesn't take rocket science to deal with the removal and reinstallment of the line counter.  I'm wondering how accurate it could be.  I soaked the four screws on the bottom side of the spool in Liquid Wrench overnight, but they won't budge.  Really, I see no reason to take it apart because I got to the drag washers by removing the retaining ring on top.




One more thing---has anyone ever tested one of these and see how accurate they are? 

[wailua boy]

Looks to be in good shape, nice score and thanks for taking us along. Now get some stink on it.

[foakes]

Nice job, Chester!

The line counter is more of a novelty or selling feature than useful.

But it is a neat feature.

The European destined LC's are in Meters -- your US model is in yards.

Contrary to popular opinion -- the line counter feature does not need to be accurate -- just consistent -- and it is.

Cast the rig -- then before retrieving line -- set the wheel to "0".

This will give you an idea of either how far out your bait was -- or how deep -- then you can choose to duplicate the last drop -- or try a different depth.

I am building one from scratch for Daron. They are bulletproof reels -- and since the LC works on the gear retrieval -- there will be a variation from full spool to a lesser amount of line.

But the results will be repeatable and consistent.

Best, Fred

[happyhooker]

Nice reel--and good to get some info on how the line counter parts looked & how it was supposed to function.

Frank

[BocaSnook1]

Chester,

Thank you for another great tutorial!

[Midway Tommy]

Well done, Chester! That ball lever is probably corroded a little. It should turn out, though. Maybe a little heat from a hairdryer would expand the metal and loosen it up.

[foakes]

Don't force or heat the ball lever A/R, Chester --

These early models are not like the later ones where the lever is just unscrewed from the A/R pin.

Instead, there is a threaded insert attached to an "L" configured lever, spring, and pin assembly.

This sleeve has the type of slot that requires making a snake-eye tool to remove it from the shift housing.

I either leave them in place -- or get them out if corroded.

A good magnifier and light will reveal what I am describing.  

And here are a few pics --

If, after spraying a little Kroil in there -- if necessary (generally is) -- I ruin the A/R sleeve, spring, pin, ball assembly -- I just install a new one.

Fortunately, I have some of these 65 year old parts assemblies.  They are new.

If you end up needing one -- just let me know and I will send it out at N/C.

Be careful not to ruin the shift housing threads or the shift housing itself -- if ruined -- that part is nearly impossible to locate because it is the rare early version.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

Thanks for posting the pics, Fred!  That's way better than I could ever explain it! As the old saying goes: "a picture is worth a thousand words". 

BTW, when I use a hair dryer I always try to apply heat on the back side where it won't affect or bubble paint, and if you're careful, hair dryers don't get things excessively hot.

[festus]

These early models are not like the later ones where the lever is just unscrewed from the A/R pin.

Instead, there is a threaded insert attached to an "L" configured lever, spring, and pin assembly.

This sleeve has the type of slot that requires making a snake-eye tool to remove it from the shift housing.

I either leave them in place -- or get them out if corroded.

A good magnifier and light will reveal what I am describing.  


Best, Fred

Thanks for the pics, Fred, I would have never figured that one out by myself.  And I'm glad that DAM got away from that design.

[ClintB]

That is an amazing tutorial! I learned a lot and it all makes sense when you actually see the parts as they are being removed.

[festus]

That is an amazing tutorial! I learned a lot and it all makes sense when you actually see the parts as they are being removed.

Thanks Clint.  I need to work on my lighting for the pictures.  On dark colored reels sometimes they aren't very legible.  I could adjust exposure in PhotoPad Image Editor, but that takes time.  When I joined this group 28 months ago I couldn't even change bail springs in a Mitchell 300.  Still got lots to learn, but I feel like I've earned at least an associate degree in reel repair.  Lots of helpful folks on here, plus there are tons of helpful YouTube videos out there.

[oldmanjoe]

These early models are not like the later ones where the lever is just unscrewed from the A/R pin.

Instead, there is a threaded insert attached to an "L" configured lever, spring, and pin assembly.

This sleeve has the type of slot that requires making a snake-eye tool to remove it from the shift housing.

I either leave them in place -- or get them out if corroded.

A good magnifier and light will reveal what I am describing.  


Best, Fred

Thanks for the pics, Fred, I would have never figured that one out by myself.  And I'm glad that DAM got away from that design.

Well that explains what i have , i still works