8500SS build

[JasonGotaProblem]

So first and foremost I wanna change to concurrently active 2 sprung dogs. I want an upgraded ratchet but given what I'm seeing re: availability that's like saying I want tickets to a nirvana concert; that ship has sailed. (Please please please let me know if I'm wrong on this! If someone still has some available please let me know!)

One thing I'm wondering, and yes I searched before asking, is has anyone attempted to install a 3rd. (Or 4th!?!?!?!) dog? I recognize that this would entail either drilling and threading a new mounting hole, or custom making a dog of a different size/shape to use an existing hole previously intended for a different purpose. Or making a custom bearing cover that has a wider base with a strategically placed screw hole (threads in the custom bearing cover, in threaded hole in reel body for extension of screw)

What I was considering might be the least painful approach to this bold mod is a longer dog that could utilize the transfer lever's existing mounting hole, but of course the longer a thin piece of metal the weaker it is, so materials would of course be a consideration.

So it's been fairly established that the dog and ratchet assembly is the weak point on these reels, thats why it gets so much attention from the mod crew). So what's the second weakest point? By that I mean say you get the anti reverse to be rock solid through a combination of mods, What would be the next thing to watch for failure (and by that i mean what's the next area to modify)?

And has anyone figured out how to improve the line lay for braid? I'd like to run 40-50 lb spectra, but I'd also like to be able to cast. (Modified crosswind gear with more teeth to accommodate the thinner line perhaps?) If I can't make braid functional on this guy my enthusiasm for the reel will drop considerably.

[Bryan Young]

One can make the dogs synchronous as well as spring load the by adding springs but I have never tried it. I have not seen the dog system fail on these reels but definitely could be better in the back play.

And I have not seen. Anyone add more dogs. You may need to experiment with it yourself.

And regarding the line lay, I haven't seen anyone with a gear hob make one. Not sure I would like a finer line lay as you may encounter that the line will groove in if it's too fine.

[JasonGotaProblem]

One can make the dogs synchronous as well as spring load the by adding springs but I have never tried it. I have not seen the dog system fail on these reels but definitely could be better in the back play.

And I have not seen. Anyone add more dogs. You may need to experiment with it yourself.

And regarding the line lay, I haven't seen anyone with a gear hob make one. Not sure I would like a finer line lay as you may encounter that the line will groove in if it's too fine.

Admittedly I don't have a super strong understanding of what makes for good or bad line lay. My assumption was that the gearing in these were set up before the braid era so it was geared for the wider mono lines. How thick a strand is affects how far apart wraps should be to get it tight, right? That was my logic going in.

I wanna look at designing a 16 tooth ratchet and getting it cut. I have no idea how much such an item would cost. I guess there's only one way to find out.

[JasonGotaProblem]

I guess I should have been more clear when I talked about having this reel, it wasn't actually in my possession yet. I had found it for sale on CL. This fella had a pile of random fishing crap with a tagline basically "400 obo to take it all!" Most of it was junk but i spotted the SS in the pile. After getting him to remove the side plate to verify brass gearing I bought it for $60 (If i had known how clueless the guy was I would have offered 20). He was in Orlando, so i sent my brother to meet him.

Well I finally got to see my brother this weekend and got hold of the reel. Lets just say I pictured it being in better shape than it was. The anti reverse is more of a pro reverse (freely spins backwards unhindered in silent mode and clicks while spinning backward with the switch flipped), and there's sand between the spool and the rotor. I haven't even taken it apart yet and I'm already seeing this is gonna be a restoration mission before its an upgrade mission.

Well, I wanted a project reel. Pictures to come.

[JasonGotaProblem]

Ok so I may be talking to myself here, but am I correct in thinking that how close the rotor sits to the spool might be the next weak area to consider? Doesn't seem like it would take much deformation at all to make it rub, though I'm not sure at what drag pressure that would be a consideration.

Also I think I've decided I'm gonna strip and polish the aluminum instead of touching up the black paint (body and rotor). I've seen some pics and it looks super cool.

[Bryan Young]

The rotor is pretty strong.  I'd be more worried about the spool shaft bending before deforming the rotor.

[JasonGotaProblem]

The rotor is pretty strong.  I'd be more worried about the spool shaft bending before deforming the rotor.

Sounds like I should pick up a spare spool shaft if I'm gonna be experimenting. Saw some on auction site for pretty cheap. Thank you.

[oc1]

I was going to suggest you buy some inexpensive parts reels if you are committed to this model and plan to stay with it for a while.  Then I looked and realized there are no inexpensive parts reels.  Those things really increased in value while I wasn't looking.  They're getting greenie prices now.
-steve

[JasonGotaProblem]

I was going to suggest you buy some inexpensive parts reels if you are committed to this model and plan to stay with it for a while.  Then I looked and realized there are no inexpensive parts reels.  Those things really increased in value while I wasn't looking.  They're getting greenie prices now.
-steve

I've been seeing an influx of SS reels on CL. I guess to a certain portion of the fishing population these reels are getting old and they want something new and shiny. I'm glad i got mine for what i did when I did.
I actually just disassembled it tonight. The innards all appear to be in good working order. Knock on wood.

Attached is my before picture. A lot of the paint damage is on the rotor and the handle. I swiped the handle from my 750ssm for now until I can get a proper knob. The thing is, with the damage being on the rotor and the body being more or less clean I'm second guessing polishing it. Would it look goofy if I polished just the rotor?

[JasonGotaProblem]

So one of the things that annoys me is the bail wire. I tend to hold the rod such that the reel stem sits between my middle and ring fingers. Idk why, thats just how I've done it since i was a kid. The problem is the bail wire hits my index finger as it swings past. I haven't fished it yet but I assume that will cause trouble, for my finger. The correct answer of course is to change my grip. But I really don't like that answer. Do I need to consider the bail-less conversion? I found one on auction site but I'm not sure i wanna throw that $50 at the problem just yet. Also I've never fished a reel without a bail so i have no idea what I'd be signing myself up for...

Thoughts?

[JasonGotaProblem]

Rotor is a work in progress. I think I'm gonna go all the way.

[mhc]

Hi Jason, welcome to the site. A polished spinfisher would look pretty good, but corrosion or oxidation might be an issue if you use it in salt water without some sort of protective seal. Do you have a sealant in mind? Fred (foakes) and others here have had some success with baked enamel although I've never tried it.

Mike

[oc1]

Or, Mike could tell you how to re-anodize it.
-s

[RowdyW]

Anodizing I don't think will work well on a casting.

[JasonGotaProblem]

By my reading just about nothing actually has a foolproof adhesion to polished aluminum. So odds are I'll just wax it and have to keep up with it.