Akios clutch and brake blocks on an Abu Garcia Ambassadeur

[SteveL]

According to PMR (Pimp My Reels), the Akios clutch with 6 centrifugal brakes is a drop in replacement for the older 2 brake Abu Garcia clutch.  Both are designed for the older two slot pinions and will not work with the newer 4 slot pinions that come on Abu's with 6 centrifugal brake blocks.

My questions are

• Has anyone tried it?
• How well did it work?
• What is the best source for these parts?

Ebay and all of the places where I normally order parts do not stock them.  I am trying to avoid getting them direct from England.

Thanks,

Steve

[Swami805]

I'm curious too how they work too.
The stuff I got from them was here in less than 2 weeks, no issues

[SteveL]

I believe PMR also had a dual bearing idler gear for Akios that he said was compatible with the Ambassadeur.

[SteveL]

Google found a link on the Akios website to the complete Akios clutch washer / brake block assembly.  It doesn't list when you select the option for standard Akios parts, but it is there.   Note that this only works with the older 2 slot pinions.  £5.99 or about $8 plus shipping.

Genuine AKIOS dynaMAX 6 pin centrifugal brake assembly to fit Akios Shuttle, Tourno, S-Line and Dynamo multiplier reels in 555, 656 and 666 sizes as well as Abu Ambassadeur 5500 and 6500 sized reels including the Abu Mag Elite.

https://akios-superstore.co.uk/Akios-Abu-6-Pin-Centrifugal-Brake-Assembly

[oc1]

I think the old two block system will provide a wide enough range of settings.  You just need a couple of complete sets of blocks (sm, med, lg).  The only thing I do not like about the two block system is that the things fall off when you are not looking and they are like searching for a roach turd on the floor.
-steve

[SteveL]

For throwing lighter weights, the two block brake works ok, but 3 oz or larger, I would prefer the 6 block brake, plus they can individually be swithed on or off.  And they don't fall off.  Better centrifugal weights mean you don't have to tighten down on the spool as much.

[oc1]

For throwing lighter weights, the two block brake works ok, but 3 oz or larger, I would prefer the 6 block brake, plus they can individually be swithed on or off.  And they don't fall off.  Better centrifugal weights mean you don't have to tighten down on the spool as much.

If you have a centrifugal brake, why would you want to tighten down on the spool shaft (presumable with the spool tension knob).  I always leave a few thousandths of lateral play just so I can confirm that there is no unnecessary spool tension.  Proportional braking is always better than constant friction.

I have no experience with 3 ounce payloads.  They say you can use small brass balls behind the usual two-pin brake shoe to get more stopping power.
-steve

[SteveL]

If you have a centrifugal brake, why would you want to tighten down on the spool shaft (presumable with the spool tension knob).  I always leave a few thousandths of lateral play just so I can confirm that there is no unnecessary spool tension.  Proportional braking is always better than constant friction.

I have no experience with 3 ounce payloads.  They say you can use small brass balls behind the usual two-pin brake shoe to get more stopping power.
-steve

The standard explanation for adjusting a baitcaster is to tighten the tension knob just enough so that your lure or weight/bait descends slowly and doesn't birdnest when it hits the floor.  I always start there and back off the spool tension until the floor will cause a birdnest.  I let my thumb handle the end of the cast.   I start with centrifugal brakes set (and magnetic brake if present), and gradually back off on those and spool tensiion as the day progresses.

Between the spool tension knob, the friction between the nylon spool cog/spool shaft/sideplate bushing, the idler gear and the greased levelwind worm,  Abu Garcia has a lot of natural friction for braking designed into the reel.   We tend to eliminated most  of that  by upgrading spool bearings, adding bearings to the idler gear, levelwind and TSI'ing all of the above.  That is where a good thumb and good brakes are needed.

Plus, I want my older style reels (not counting the even older ones with bearing caps on both sides) to adjust and cast the same as my newer reels .

[oc1]

The standard explanation for adjusting a baitcaster is to tighten the tension knob just enough so that your lure or weight/bait descends slowly and doesn't birdnest when it hits the floor.  

Yeah, that's what ABU used to tell us in their instructional material.  But, I thought we had moved past that.  It was discussed here before and will try to find it again.

Making adjustments based on test casting will give you a different outcome.
-steve

[SteveL]

The standard explanation for adjusting a baitcaster is to tighten the tension knob just enough so that your lure or weight/bait descends slowly and doesn't birdnest when it hits the floor.  

Yeah, that's what ABU used to tell us in their instructional material.  But, I thought we had moved past that.  It was discussed here before and will try to find it again.

Making adjustments based on test casting will give you a different outcome.
-steve

Yes.  It is a good starting point, but I loosen up the spool tension knob, apply brakes, cast, then reduce braking until I am close but not quite to a birdnest 

[oc1]

I do the opposite and start with no spool tension and a few thousandths of lateral play and then add brake blocks (or magnets or whatever) until it will cast without thumbing the spool and without bird nest.
-s