330 Bail Trip Lever

[sandbar]

Wow
It's great to be back on line.
Looking for tips on removing and reinstalling the pin on the bail trip lever.
It's in an awkward place to get a direct blow on the pin for removal.
Thank You
-Steve

[foakes]

On the 330's, I generally don't remove those unless there is no other option.

Even if rusted — unless it is damaged — a Dremel with a wire wheel or an emory board will clean it up — a couple drops of penetrating oil — clean & re-oil — make sure the spring is crisp and still active — and that's it.

If I have to get it off — it is a delicate chore — and easy to break something — so I do have those parts — stop lever, stop lever bearing pin, the tiny spring — and on some model variations there is even a small assembly that is held in place by (2) tiny brass rivets.

About 2 out of every 3 times I need to remove the pin with an offset punch or a set of pin pliers — I am successful.  The 3rd time — I screw up some of the parts and some parts need to be replaced.

Best, Fred

[6thMichCav]

Not trying to derail thread, but trying to focus on a bail issue:

I have a 330N that has a habit of working the bail arm loose. When that happens, the spring jumps into the gap between the arm and the housing and becomes inoperable.

Would it be suitable to put a little red Loc Tite on the screw threads to hold it in the appropriate position?  Or is there a better solution?

[foakes]

A few things, Dale —

First, determine the actual issue causing the bearing (angle lever) screw to back out.

Typically — check to see if the screw will tighten onto the rotor securely — by itself — without the angle lever.

If it doesn't — then loc-tite would probably work.

If the screw does tighten securely — then check for excess wear on the lips of the spring cup on the rotor, gouges on either side of the angle lever, a slightly tweaked angle lever, even a bent bail putting excess pressure on the angle lever.

Sometimes just a very thin copper shim between the bearing screw and the rotor Will do the trick — or very carefully shaving 1 Mil off the outer circumference of the spring cup.

There are a half dozen possibilities.

This is not an unusual issue — and the remedies are varied.

For me, if the threads were worn in the rotating head — and there were no gouges in the angle lever — I would just install a good used rotor, a new bail spring, a new screw, and a new angle lever possibly.  This would take care of the issue quickly, efficiently, and cheaply.

Loc-Tite might work, but it is only a half-measure — until the real culprit gets worse — then when it is time for a service again —it will need to be addressed once more.

If it can be fixed right the first time — your fishing trips will be more enjoyable without having to worry if your fix is going to hold, or not — on that next big fish.

Worst scenario is to have the big one on —only to realize that the screw, angle lever and spring have gone MIA on the shore or in the water...

Best, Fred

[oldmanjoe]

  I would be careful with red lockite , i think blue lockite would be better .   You can break it loose without  heat .

[6thMichCav]

It appears there are plenty of better solutions—thanks for the suggestions, guys!