International 50SW Questions?

[Jaybr]

Hello,

I'm going through 3 50SW's that I got from a buddy, he bought them used so no history.  I started with the ugliest and it looks to be sound, no issues with gears or anything just some corrosion in a few spots.  I have read through the tutorial and have a few questions.

The main gear doesn't want to come out when I depress the plunger and either simultaneously press the shaft or pull the gear, is there a trick to it?

The bearings are Chinese but appear to be in good shape, should I replace?

What variation of drag do I have here, and do I need to upgrade it?

I see where you guys remove the seals from bearings and repack, is there a trick to getting the retaining ring out?

Anything particular you recommend for cleaning the grease out of these?  I was thinking carb cleaner, but I'm more an auto guy than reels lol.

What do you do about corrosion?  I can get it cleaned up but then the anodizing is gone.  is there anything you finish it with or just grease it?

Appreciate the help, great site!

I only broke off 1 screw taking it apart

[Tightlines667]

The main gear doesn't want to come out when I depress the plunger and either simultaneously press the shaft or pull the gear, is there a trick to it?

The pins are likely sticky, use some penetrating oil, tap the shaft lightly, if u still can't get it, pull the bridge and mess with it more.

The bearings are Chinese but appear to be in good shape, should I replace?

Clean throughly with brake cleaner, dey, then spin and check for any roughness.  Usually the pinion or drive shaft bearings are the first to go.  I replace if there is any roughness.  If reel is for trolling, pack bearings with marine grease.

What variation of drag do I have here, and do I need to upgrade it?

This is the 4th gen/latest dura drag, no need to upgrade.  Just clean the CF with brake cleaner, work weave up with link free cloth and u can grease with cal's drag grease and wipe clean, or run it dry.

I see where you guys remove the seals from bearings and repack, is there a trick to getting the retaining ring out?
Use a sharp hook, and maybe a razor blade.  Be aware some chinese bearings don't have retaining rings.

Anything particular you recommend for cleaning the grease out of these?  I was thinking carb cleaner, but I'm more an auto guy than reels lol.

I use a soak in simple green, run through sonic cleaner, then toothbrush pr stiff bristle detailing brush.  Any solvent will do, just don't use the super strong purple parts cleaner it may damage the anodizing.

What do you do about corrosion?  I can get it cleaned up but then the anodizing is gone.  is there anything you finish it with or just grease it?[/i]

I just wire brush it, and grease unless it affects function, then replace part.  Some use aluminum filler.

Good luck!

[alantani]

this should be your schematic.

http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/images/pennparts/schematics/50sw.pdf

depending on where the broken stud of the screw is, you best bet might be to torch it till it glows, then let it cool a little and then try to remove the broken stud.  make sure you remove anything that is plastic.  if the stud is stuck in the frame, then first strip the frame down completely. 

with the side plate off, remove the gear retainers (key #173), then the coupling plate (key #119), then the handle.  the gear stud (key #134) should push out without trouble.

the drag washer material looks more like ht-100 material, but no matter.  just grease it liberally, then wipe off the excess and you should be good. 

for the corrosion, i try to scrub with an old greasy toothbrush and leave a light coat of grease. 

please keep us posted on your progress.  thanks!  alan

[Jaybr]

Thanks for the tips.

The screw broke off in the side plate and broke off flush.  I am in a bit of a pickle because I recently moved and haven't moved my tools from the old house yet, including my torch.  I picked up a screw extractor from Northern Tool this evening, soaked the stuck one in PB Blaster for a couple hours then tried to drill it to use the extractor.  I expected that the screw would loosen up as I drilled and just screw out the back side, instead half way through the drill bit slipped off the side of the screw and now i have 1/2 a screw and an enlarged hole    Guess I should have waited until the weekend when I'll be back at the old house and have access to a drill press.

Can I buy a new side case?  If not, I guess I can drill it out and weld up the hole and re-drill and tap.

[Jaybr]

The internals where full of old nasty grease but everything looks to be in good shape.  I was able to get the gear shaft out, played with the plunger a bit and it broke free.

[Jaybr]

These screws are super tight, the one that started to turn felt like it was going to break.  I've got them soaking in PB Blaster and if they aren't loose tomorrow I'll pickup my torch this weekend from the old house.

[alantani]

Thanks for the tips.

The screw broke off in the side plate and broke off flush.  I am in a bit of a pickle because I recently moved and haven't moved my tools from the old house yet, including my torch.  I picked up a screw extractor from Northern Tool this evening, soaked the stuck one in PB Blaster for a couple hours then tried to drill it to use the extractor.  I expected that the screw would loosen up as I drilled and just screw out the back side, instead half way through the drill bit slipped off the side of the screw and now i have 1/2 a screw and an enlarged hole    Guess I should have waited until the weekend when I'll be back at the old house and have access to a drill press.

Can I buy a new side case?  If not, I guess I can drill it out and weld up the hole and re-drill and tap.

it's not going to drill cleanly.  i would completely strip down the side plate and remove anything that can burn or melt, then torch the back side until it glows to heat up and loosen the stud, then see if you can remove the stud with a screw extractor.  you can do the drilling first.