Removing/preserving clear coat and/or paint, etc.

[oc1]

Really nice video.  That is a good trick.

[Jeri]

I'd be looking to move the first guide away from the reel face, and probably reduce the size of the first guide significantly, but opting for a taller frame guide. Have found that the section of guides that act as the reduction train, need to be quite close together, but the size of the first guide is quite critical in how small it is - to take the disruptive coils from the reel out of the system early.

Just my experience.

[philaroman]

is vid misleading?  are you not casting naturally, but in a way that can be filmed best (pointing tip up too much)?
is there too much angle between rod & line creating additional choke-point at tip?
could that be causing overall line backup (esp., between stripper & next guide)?
good to exaggerate reduction train insanity for educational purposes,
but for guide position, find a way to film the way you cast in real life
hidden tripod / crouching wife  

[JasonGotaProblem]

Thank you all

Definitely not casting naturally by any means. Just trying to do so in such a way that i could film line flow. Actually casting, this thing puts down some distance. I was hitting 80 yds easy with the 2oz weight.

I'll have to get a buddy to film. I find my life is easiest and most enjoyable when my wife isnt directly reminded how much of my free time is spent tinkering with fishing stuff.

Joe says move first guide down, Jeri says move it up. I think that either means its perfect where it is, or I def need to pull it and play with a few positional changes.

[oldmanjoe]

     Phil  points out a very good observation on the under hand throw and line speed .
     I was wondering how much cleaner the line flow ,would be with speed , or  would we see a stack up at the first guide .

[philaroman]

cheapest    get a dashboard phone holder w/ ball-joint & adapt to breast pocket or cap
1st vid is cool, but it's no help deciding whether guides are out of position,
if you're holding the rod way out of position, throughout the cast

[JasonGotaProblem]

cheapest    get a dashboard phone holder w/ ball-joint & adapt to breast pocket or cap
1st vid is cool, but it's no help deciding whether guides are out of position,
if you're holding the rod way out of position, throughout the cast

Just making sure I understand correctly, there's 3 videos. The one in the middle is the only one that embedded (the other 2 have "shorts" in the URL so it doesn't come in the same so you gotta click to watch them). I thought of all of them, the first one was the most useful, but then again I'm wrong a lot.

[philaroman]

sorry, didn't notice links above/below middle vid -- doesn't look like you are pointing rod in direction of line-flow in any
also, combo of all 3 vids suggests line-slap (or close enough to become line-slap if windy)
and I'm w/ Jeri: taller smaller stripper closer to reel & proportionately so for next guide
look into Fuji Match Guides as cheap alternative to KR (esp., older ceramics)
taller, smaller but different leg design & not angled...  most are single-foot (BMYOG, BCMYAG, etc.),
but I lucked into really cheap old double-foot, mislabeled as ice-rod guides,
that are totally straight & can be reversed...  an older version of BNMVAG:

[oldmanjoe]

  I thought we were working with the guides on the stick , just thinking how / if  they could be rearranged to make the most of the reel selected .

[JasonGotaProblem]

  I thought we were working with the guides on the stick , just thinking how / if  they could be rearranged to make the most of the reel selected .

In general this was the goal. Though I did get smaller running guides for it at a minimal cost. Gonna try to start sliding the bottom two around tonight.

[oldmanjoe]

   Picture will help

I'm sorry you'll have to be more specific.

Just running guides or do we have a selection of stripper ,bumper and choke to play with ......   GEE if you want to play , you have to be willing to take all the toy`s out  of the toy box and share ......

[JasonGotaProblem]

   Picture will help

I'm sorry you'll have to be more specific.

Just running guides or do we have a selection of stripper ,bumper and choke to play with ......   GEE if you want to play , you have to be willing to take all the toy`s out  of the toy box and share ......

I've already been rummaging through the guides I bought for the surf rod I'm building next. In fact I have a set of 6 of more size 6 runners. I keep eyeballing them. But I'm actually really happy with the runners the way I have them now, 4 size 6 preceded by 2 of the ones that came on the rod. It's slightly more gradual of a reduction. I may still switch.

I've been wanting to come down and see you again but I'm house hunting right now and it's nuts.

So I decided to play with Jeri's approach by way of moving the top guide up, and then moving it up again, and I was surprised by how much i like the feel of it. I didn't realize that I could feel the line slap before, and I realize it now because it's gone and I feel the difference. And it's casting pretty nice. Need to get out somewhere more open and see what kind of distances I can reach.

[Jeri]

I'm not surprised at what you are finding, however to get everything working properly, whether it is videos or the line flow, you need to be casting at full speed, as line speed is a very critical factor in just how any guide pattern will or will not work.

Have just finished some works on an existing blank that had been factory built, and the client was having lots of problems getting the distance, she was only managing 60-85 meters at full power. We offered her a test cast with a rod that we had built on the same blank, much smaller stripper guide, close proximity transition guides and small running guides to the end, as well as the stripper guide being higher than her previous first two guides - really unconventional, first cast she made was 105 meters, the second with her full power was 120 meters.  No line slap, no hint of bunching, and near silent line flow through the guides.

Experimenting with guides, even doing the unconventional can seriously improve matters on any blank. How do you know that the factory got it right?

[JasonGotaProblem]

I'm not surprised at what you are finding, however to get everything working properly, whether it is videos or the line flow, you need to be casting at full speed, as line speed is a very critical factor in just how any guide pattern will or will not work.

Have just finished some works on an existing blank that had been factory built, and the client was having lots of problems getting the distance, she was only managing 60-85 meters at full power. We offered her a test cast with a rod that we had built on the same blank, much smaller stripper guide, close proximity transition guides and small running guides to the end, as well as the stripper guide being higher than her previous first two guides - really unconventional, first cast she made was 105 meters, the second with her full power was 120 meters.  No line slap, no hint of bunching, and near silent line flow through the guides.

Experimenting with guides, even doing the unconventional can seriously improve matters on any blank. How do you know that the factory got it right?

It seems everyone agrees about the importance of full power casting. I will experiment this afternoon.

And it's pretty clear the factory did not get it right. That's the purpose of this exercise. In theory i could get smaller reducers and probably improve the situation but i really wanna use what came with it to the greatest extent possible. Otherwise sooner or later I'll be facing a "ship of theseus" type situation.

[Jeri]

Otherwise sooner or later I'll be facing a "ship of theseus" type situation.

You were warned that opening Pandora's Box of rod building would be problematic..........