Best method for cleaning the green crud off brass plates

Started by MEGA-BITE, January 21, 2012, 11:08:03 PM

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broadway

Shame on me... Jimmer is 100% correct! I got a true story for ya...
       In the fall I like to clean the terminals with a wire brush on the day of removal for winter storage.  About 6 years ago I had a bed sheet down while I was doing work to "protect" the boat.  When I was done with a long day of maintenance and the end of the season clean up I folded that sheet up that I used to "protect" the boat and went on my merry way.  In the spring I received a phone call from the boat yard (they know I'm insanely meticulous with my boat) asking me to come down when I had a chance... you never want that call.  ???  Upon arrival, I am greeted by the owner of the marina with a strange face on like he had bad news. He DID!  The salt air (boat yard is literally 5' away from Jamaica Bay (NY) rusted all those tiny particles from the wire brush to my non skid deck.  Needless to say the whole starboard side of the cockpit had rust dots and lines from the metal brush particles and fallen off wires. I am in no way involved with FSR Davis, ut their product saved my life.  It removed all but a few lines and dots.  It took over 10 hours to clean up! :o  So, please don't use that stuff if you like your gear. ;)
Dom

Bryan Young

Do you guys know what CLR or vinegar + water will do to the anodization?  I've got a reel that is, well, stuck together and need to essentially soak the entire frame and cross members.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Jimmer

I have not used clr on an anodized part. I made a few calls and couldn't find anyone else that had either. I remember reading a post on here awhile back that recommended using a strong base (drano) to completely remove the anodizing, don't know if a weak acid would have the same effect. maybe try a small drop on the bottom of the reel as a test. On other metals it completely removes the corrosion without harming the base metal,if the reel is that bad it might be worth giving it a shot. Please post your findings - Thanks - Jimmer
What - me worry?   A.E.Neumann

broadway

Bryan,

     I'm not sure what vinegar and water does because I use straight distilled white vinegar $4 a gallon. I pour it in a tupperware large enough to completely submerge whatever I'm trying to remove the corrosion off.  Let sit in vinegar, remove, dry, spray with canned air in crevices, holes, etc, and good to go.  It's never effected my anodized custom handles, however I never left it in over an hour.  Parts like main gears, pinions, and other brass and chromed parts have been left overnight to totally clean off imbedded corrosion with again, no problems.  good luck!
Dom

Jimmer

I'm sure vinegar is a weaker and safer acid than clr. Dom have you tried extra virgin olive oil on the spool bearings yet? This may be launching a new"green' as well as green crud initiative in reel repair! LOL - Jimmer
What - me worry?   A.E.Neumann

broadway


Alto Mare

Dom, next time try Waiman stove top cleaner, it will pull that rust right out of that fiberglass ;). all you need is a drop on a damp rag. You know, I don't use steel wool, I use stainless steel wool to clean my chromed parts along with  a drop of TSI 301.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

MEGA-BITE

Tried distilled vinegar for 3 hours and not even a dent in the crud. Rinsed off parts with water then dropped in a bowl of CLR and within an hour green crud was gone. So... in my case CLR wins hands down. 

Bryan Young

Thanks guys.  Will check with the reel owner to see to what extent he would like me to go.  Last option is to drill out screws, but that would be may last option.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

broadway

Never had that happen, megabite.  You must have special corrosion where you live  ;)
I'll check that stove top cleaner out, Sal... always looking for a good cleaning solution.
Thanks
Dom

Alto Mare

Quote from: coastalobsession on January 22, 2012, 04:27:22 PM
Simple green or clr will do the trick
coastalobsession, I heard you mention simple green a few times and decided to give it a shot. Thanks for your suggestion, I like it. It should also help neutralize the parts after they've been soaked in distilled vinegar. Thanks! Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Ken_D

I use limeaway.

Killerbug

Quote from: broadway on January 23, 2012, 03:57:40 PM
Hey KB,

      That looks like some serious salt deposits... dilute Salt Away in a container, disassemble reel, drop in everything, and watch your salt disappear before your eyes!
Does steel wool scratch the reel?
Dom

Hi,

I know it looks like salt, but it's greenish/white corrosion from the galvanized brass.  Steel wool does not scratch ABU frames, as it is softer than the galvanized
coating.   There might be more gentle methods of removing corrosion, but steel wool is fast.
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-----------------------------
They say Catch and Release fishing is a lot like golf.
You don't have to eat the ball to have a good time

Jimmer

I would really recommend the stainless wool.  Carbon bearing steel may transfer carbon to stainless steel also, which destroys the stainless properties of it. Ever leave a brillo pad in a stainless steel sink and see a rust spot form?
What - me worry?   A.E.Neumann

Keta

Quote from: Jimmer on February 01, 2012, 02:25:42 AM
I would really recommend the stainless wool. 

X2
Iron atoms will transfer to your work and it can make it ugly when it rusts. Aluminum is effected worse than other materials but it's not good for SS too.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

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