Ultrasonic cleaning reels?

[foakes]

I use the US cleaner with solvents in a glass jar on bearings.

One of the keys is to make sure the bearings are not ceramic — they are steel.

Make sure there are no plastic, nylon, or rubber seals.

And I remove the shields.

If the shields can be reinstalled after removing — that is done.

If the shields are ruined when removing — the shields are not used — just tossed in the trash.  They are not necessary most of the time — if good grease is used such as Penn Blue or Yamaha Marine.

Best, Fred

[Penn]

The chemical we are using is stronger than the average off the shelf cleaner, thus the reason we don't add bearings to our ultrasonic tank. 

tony

[foakes]

I understand that, Tony —

Makes sense.

For me, not for everyone else —

I use straight Lacquer Thinner in an open small jar in the US reservoir.  No heat.  8 minutes generally.  Bearings, all bare metal (except pot metal alloys are a no-no), never any painted, plastic, rubber, or anodized parts — only steel, SS,  copper, bronze, brass, aluminum, and chrome plated.

Nothing I have found is as thorough, effective, and quick as this method.

Most folks don't like Lacquer Thinner — but I have used it all my life for many types of tool clean up, painting, finishing, thinning, and gunk removal.

I use protection, am careful, and am experienced with this method.

Best, Fred

[Irishdevil0311]

What khz and watts am I looking for in a machine? I see mostly 40 and 50 khz machines. Do I want or need more?

[foakes]

In a SS unit —- with a SS reservoir —- buy as much power (watts) as you feel comfortable affording.

It makes all the difference.

Best, Fred