Does Anyone Have Replacement End Guides For Old Garcia Conolon Rods?

[JasonGotaProblem]

Man, just use a caliper. Ring size isn't in 64ths of an inch it's mm so its easier. You measure the outer diameter of the insert to get the ring size. (Fuji alconite and aluminum oxide rings share the same frame but the ring is different)

[philaroman]

never had one of those plastic thangs, but pretty sure the holes & pegs match up
you stick the old tip-top onto the peg OR stick the rod tip into the corresponding hole,
to get the tube ID in 64ths, for the new tip-top...  (though, like Jason mentioned,
it's more precise to measure the actual blank tip w/ calipers, after whatever surface prep and/or under-wrap)

[Walleye Guy]

Now that I have the tube size pretty much figured out, how do I determine the correct ring size for both of these rods?  If you recall from the beginning of this post, the casting rod tip-top is probably not original and the spinning rod tip-top is missing the ring portion.

[Midway Tommy]

Generally, in my experience, the tip-top ring is the same size as the first ring below it or one size smaller. I prefer the tip-top to be a size smaller if I can get one, but some prefer them to be the same size.

[Walleye Guy]

Tom, when you do this are you comparing the ring ID or the ring OD?

[Midway Tommy]

I concentrate on the inside diameter. I know ceramic rings are sized according to the outside diameter but I think it is stupid to size wire rings by the inside and ceramic by the outside, the line goes through inside of the circle so, to me, that's what matters. The ring thicknesses don't vary a whole lot when you get down to the smallest sizes. I take that into consideration.

[Walleye Guy]

I found this auction on Ebay and I think the size is correct for my casting rod, however it's labeled for spinning rods.  Are spinning rod tip-tops different than casting rod tip-tops? The guides on my casting rod all have a rectangular cross section whereas the spinning rod guides all have a round cross section. Maybe that's the difference?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154454426661?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=71a0ecba0d0d44b9964cf773dd76643b&bu=43197130091&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20220419204818&segname=11051&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

[boon]

For the tip, a spinning rod tip generally has the eye at 90 degrees to the blank, where casting tips are slightly angled.

[Walleye Guy]

Well, I'm pretty sure I know what I need now but am unable to find it on Ebay or at Mudhole.  I sent a few emails to different sellers but no one has my particular size.  Does anyone out there have any old vintage guides they'd be willing to sell?  For the casting rod I need a tungsten carbide with a #12 tube size and either a 10mm or 11mm ring.  Looks like Mildrum brand would be a good candidate although there are probably other manufacturers from back in the day.  If someone has an assortment, then I'd probably buy a few different ring sizes all with the #12 tube just so I can figure out which one seems like the best candidate.  Regarding the spinning rod, I think I was able to acquire an acceptable tip top.  The gentleman who I ordered the plastic CRB gauge from was kind enough to throw in an 8-6 (8mm Ring - 6/64 Tube Diameter) for free.  Unfortunately he didn't have any with a #12 tube size, though.

[Walleye Guy]

I did some more searching but unfortunately keep striking out.  I called Mudhole and they do carry carbide tip-tops but they look much different than the original style so I'm hoping to locate an original looking one for this particular rod.  Does anyone out there have a Secret Stash and want to make a little $?  I would be very grateful. 

[JasonGotaProblem]

You may need to consider a tip that doesn't match original. And if that is the case you can certainly say you tried.

[Walleye Guy]

Sorry for my delayed update.  I acquired the new tip-tops and meanwhile life took over and the rods sat in the corner of the dining room unrepaired until last weekend when I got the bug to install them.  Unfortunately I had a lot on my mind at the time so in my haste I goofed and ended up installing the wrong tip-top but after giving it some thought I think it looks more original.  For those of you who are more purists with old gear, would you mind taking a look at the pictures below and letting me know your opinion on which one would be more correct?  The installed tip-top is a vintage carbide part that, to me, looks more like what I've seen on other Garcia Conolon rods as I've poked around online looking for reference pictures.  The shinier tip-top on the top is the one I purchased and it is also a carbide ring.  It's more of a 90-degree shape and the center-to-center distance from the tube to the ring might be a little greater than the one currently installed.  If I stick with the one already installed (I'll refer to it as the vintage tip-top) I'm going to see if I can polish it to bring some of the shine back.  The second picture is the last guide so you can see what the rest of the guides look like...they are all polished and I think are also carbide rings (correct me if I'm wrong).  Thanks in advance, I couldn't have gotten this far without help from all of you. 

[Donnyboat]

Looks quite good, if it were mine I would now, place some two pack epoxy, or clear nice paint hardener, around it once it sets, it will give it that little bit of exstra strength, also see the guide below the tip, were the thread finnishes, at the but of the guide, if you can full that area to stop the salt water from geting in there, it will last a lot longer, just dip a tooth pick into some two pack or what ever your using, as it drips of the tooth pick, it should run down inside, your doing a very good job of placing  pictures on the forum, so maybe some pics of fish you  catch with with it, would  be great, just remember to leave some fish for us, cheers Don.

[Midway Tommy]

I think the vintage tip-top looks more period correct even though the tungsten is natural, not plated. I doubt you'll be able to shine it up, though. The new one has the wrong angle, IMO. If you want to keep all the wraps looking original and the same be careful about coating with epoxy. It doesn't look like that's epoxy on the next guide wrap, it looks more like multiple coats of rod varnish.

[Walleye Guy]

Don, thanks for the tip on adding some two-part epoxy to the slight gap between the old wrap and the end of the tip-top.  This rod most likely won't see any salt water but I'm guessing your point is valid for fresh or salt water.  I will definitely post pics of any fish that I catch.  Hopefully a nice big toothy muskie will be in my future.   


Tom, thanks for your opinion on which one looks more correct.  The 90-degree angle of the purchased part didn't look right to me either.  When I mentioned polishing it I meant the tip-top body since like you said the ring isn't plated.  Sorry I wasn't clear on that.  And, duly noted on coating with epoxy.

While I have you guys on the phone, let me sneak in another question.  I read online and saw videos online of two methods to install tip-tops.  The first method is to cut slivers of the glue, insert the slivers into the tip-top, then heat the tip-top and once the glue is bubbling insert the rod tip while rotating the tip-top.  The second method is to heat the glue stick with a lighter, roll the rod into the liquid glue and then insert the tip-top onto the rod tip while rotating.  Is there a benefit to one versus the other?  Just asking because we glued my brother's tip-top on last weekend using the second method (heating the glue stick with a lighter) and when he fished on Sunday the glue bond broke.  I wasn't sure if our method was wrong or maybe the tolerance between the rod tip OD and ID of the tip-top was too tight so not enough volume for glue.