Zeus 4 findings.

[Hardy Boy]

I'd love to try it ................... mail it down or better yet I'll come up. Nice looking rods.


Cheers:

Todd

[steelfish]

Ay ya steel fish, you must have steel arms, cheers don.

the guys bouncing the 18# tackle box its not me, Im more Handsome 

I went and checked the specs on the United Composites website and from that would guess that the 3 or 4 would be the better blank for the type of stuff you may catch in your back yard.  ( Not that I really know)
For some years now I have been going for lighter rods, but most times I end up regretting it.  One reason is I fish with conventional reels and they just don't like casting light lures like a spinner would.

Casting may not be a factor with a jigging rod, but even so, it may not be so much fun pulling a Spanish on a light rod.

you're correct my amigo, thats why I went and bought the Zeus 3 blank, its enough sensitive and light to fight a decent 6#-8# Spanish Mack but strong enought for a 12#-20# or more Yellowtail or grouper, that blank is already on my bench waiting for its turn to work on it, that said, I normally have many plans and ideas for new fishing rods but not even half of them get the Green-light to be built, so, I just LIKE the idea of the Zeus 1 as a light jigging rod, but with my current and short future situations (family and work plus kids growing and traveling to another city to go to the University) that puts my chances to go fishing on low but not on Hold, thats when I say I "need" to sell half of my arsenal because I normally end using the same rods and reels when I find time to go fishing.

part of that is the reason I wanted to replace the Trevala XXH with the Zeus 3 blank, my factory Seeker 6ft 80lb is already replaced with a Seeker blank 120lb and so on, etc, etc

[gstours]

✅ ok.  By earlier demand and a better view here's the Zeus 4 with the 25# load.
  Notice the load being shared by the reelseat and  Slikbutt. 
The boat rod holder is grinning 😀 just like it should.  Homade by me.
  Try this with your Fish On plastic jobbers.   
The blanks well distribution of the load should show you a well made specialized tool.
  Now I'm like to build a Z 3.   Time will tell.

[Cor]

Must admit I have never had the guts to lift 25 LB on one of my rods.   Impressive!

[El Pescador]

Gary???

Why is the USS Maiko in the yard and NOT on the water???

There is no snow on the ground 

Wayne

[gstours]

Just got back home recently.  Many delays.  Mow lawn, ready boat,  have nap........

[steelfish]

✅ ok.  By earlier demand and a better view here's the Zeus 4 with the 25# load.
  Notice the load being shared by the reelseat and  Slikbutt. 

thats the reason some RodBuilders recommend to use a graphite reelseat and not an aluminium reelseat.

there are some documented examples of jigging rods that broke just after the reelseat, the reason was those rods had an aluminium reelseat and the curve of the blank had a dead spot there that caused the blank to break in that spot.

by the way, that graphite reelseat holding 25# lift with no reelclamp on the reel talks good about fuji quality.

[gstours]

Yes Fuji good 👍.  Triggered locked , loaded.
  Butt I always use a lot of tight wraps of electrical tape so loosening will not occur.  Just an ounce of prevention.   

[steelfish]

Yes Fuji good 👍.  Triggered locked , loaded.
  Butt I always use a lot of tight wraps of electrical tape so loosening will not occur.  Just an ounce of prevention.   

      pretty sure thats helps a lot 

[Cor]

Has anyone ever seen a "Graphite" reelseat  break ander load with a fish?

I have not and nobody in this end of the woods that I know of or have heard of, uses the screws to lock it down.    Those reel holders are removed from the reel when new and never fitted again.

[gstours]

Notice.....I'm staying out of this one.

[Hardy Boy]

That looks more than big butt worthy.

Cheers

Todd

[jurelometer]

Has anyone ever seen a "Graphite" reelseat  break ander load with a fish?

I have not and nobody in this end of the woods that I know of or have heard of, uses the screws to lock it down.    Those reel holders are removed from the reel when new and never fitted again.

Seen levered out brass Varmac seats back in the day, so I assume it is possible, but only in certain situations.  The rod clamp keeps a tall reel from being levered out of the reel seat, also helps if the reel is on the very wide size.    But if the reel is not so tall and not so wide, it is basically jamming straight forward against the front foot.  So kinda of hard to break. anything in the seat.

But this forward loading  can cause the reel shift a bit forward, unless there is a clamp.  I am not sold on the electrical tape approach.  Fuji offers lock rings for most reel seat sizes. If I am not using a clamp, I would  use a lock ring and no tape.  The lock ring prevents accidental loosening of the rings from vibration or whatever, and no tape to remove if I need to tighten down the seat a bit more, if it shifts forward during the fight.

I find that the shifting forward/loosening problem is most frequent with machined aluminum reel seats, as the hoods don't  flex much to accommodate the reel foot shape, making for a very small contact area in some situations.  Not to mention scratching up the foot.

I will take a Fuji over machined aluminum every time when building/rebuilding a rod.

Lots of ways to skin the cat.  YMMV.  And nice looking rod Gary,  built your way, for you.  Can't beat that.

-J

[gstours]

Thanks buddy,  as we share advice and thoughts many others also benefit in this forum.
   As rod building has evolved so do we as a fisher person.
Specialized components can used to get to the goal.   As mentioned the metal rod seats will not flex in the jig rod application,  and work good on the trolling rod application.   
  I,m thinking about making a custom stripper guide for the next build,  higher ring, smaller ring, maybe using a 20-30 size frame and marry it to a 12 ring. 
Might be butt ugly to some,  might work great.   

[steelfish]

Gary, is the 2nd guide a bit tilted to the right and then the transition to the left or its straight at 0* as is the striper guide?

I might go this route following the Jigstar rods Twisted sista model style on my Zeus 3, worst scenario is I didnt liked it and just re-wraped it.