New Tool

[foakes]

Picked up a Wiha Cordless SpeedE II screwdriver, and have been using it daily for about 10 Days.

I do a little electrical work, but haven't used it for that yet (receptacles, switches, breakers, make-up boxes, etc.).

Also some automotive work and electronics work.

But, it works very well on reels also.

It is not for driving screws into wood —- it is for assembly and disassembly of equipment.

It uses the Wiha slimline series of insulated bits.  They are hardened and easy to see and use in tight places.

Also, picked up a 1/4" adapter so that I could use a 1/4" set of sockets.  I keep a complete 1/4" set of Snap-On sockets next to me in both Metric & Standard, deep, regular, swivels, and extensions.

It has a clutch so that you can't over-torque things, a bright ring of LED lights so your work is brightly illuminated, and it uses (1) 3.7V ION rechargeable battery which is supposed to last for 3 years or 1000 charging cycles.  They are standard batteries that cost about $6 each.

This tool is so well balanced, and able to start a screw rotating by just moving the handle left or right —- then turning the ring switch with your finger and thumb to remove or insert a screw.  Very impressive control.

Comes with 8 bits, a dual battery charger, 2 batteries, and a nice case.

I also bought 8 extra bits.

I have used, and still use the Milwaukee 12V drivers.  Have 4 of them.  They won't break after 15 years —- and the batteries are still good. But they are a little bulky and hard to see around and finesse small screws.

For an initial test —- I took a Penn 113H apart.  Every screw in the rings, sideplates, stand, and bridge were fully disassembled in 90 seconds.

Do I need this tool.  No.  Got plenty of others.  But this is really excellent and effortless, so far.  And it is not a Harbor Freight quality tool.  It is built for professionals who will use it daily in their work.

A pleasure and so easy to control with minimum effort.

Best, Fred

[day0ne]

Pricey little tool

[Wompus Cat]

Might be ok for stuff you don't care about scratching up the surface and or cross threading . But I always start fine threaded screws by hand and carefully tighten them to proper torque in a Sequence befitting the shape of the part ,Cover ,or apparatus.
I have had employees for a very short time try to cut corners by starting screws,bolts, Lug Nuts,Spark Plugs with so called Speedy drives but I always ended up having to fix what they literally SCREWED up after I fired them . NOTHING takes the place of your home grown Digits to feel and Guide  the Bolts ,Screws,Nuts in a Fine Built anything . The time you think you are saving is more than diminished ten fold when you break off a screw ,or bolt or inadvertently lose control of the tool and run a skid mark across a fine finished surface and either have to drill out and tap the broken or crossed threaded Buggered  up part. 
Maybe on some of the Cheaper made Graphite self tapping threaded Reels  but not for me on a Nice Penn Chrome Ringed 113 and certainly not any of my Tiburon ,Cortez Conversions stuff .
I could see these being used in a place that disassembles stuff for scrap or Removing a line of bolts,screws,nuts on a panel to access something that had a bunch lil screws  easy to get to  but in Repairing ,Modifying ,or Servicing Quality or Vintage Reels not so much .I just ain't in that big of a Hurry and  probably only build 30  or 40 Reels a Month. Those that want to use such Fancy Schmancy Gadgets I say More Power To Ya......

The light is a very Good thing though 

[oldmanjoe]

Yep Yep Yep   Seen that bad boy a coulp weeks ago from a search for your other screw driver thread ..

        Everything is going to look like screw now !!!

[foakes]

I don't build as many reels as Henry, maybe only 20 new builds a month, max.  But repairs are also done.

I always start to remove a screw by tightening it manually just barely —- then manually starting the back-out —- then finishing off with the electric driver.

Same goes for inserting a screw, start it manually —- then if I wish, finish it off with the driver.  There is a clutch —-  so if the hollow-ground proper sized driver is solidly in the screw slot —- there is no slipping or boogering of screws.

This particular driver is both manual and electric.  It is an automatic habit and function when you master the simple ergonomics of when to switch from manual to electric.

I am very careful on the Cortez, Accurate, and Tib equipped reels —- and only use my regular manual screwdrivers carefully on those.

However, there is another factor —-

Over a period of maybe 4 to 6 hours of working on reels, my hands start to cramp up a bit.  This so far has eliminated that issue.

I might have used this tool on maybe 300 screws over the last week, or so —- with only solid results.

And there has not been a slip or scratch —- since I am possibly overly careful.

This isn't about speed —- it is about me being able to work the bench longer when necessary.

Every completed reel —- whether for a member or just inventory —- when it is completed and wiped down —- gets every screw tested with a manual hollow-ground screwdriver for proper torque.

This tool isn't for everyone —- and none of us should never use any tool that we are not 110% comfortable and confident with.

I have used many other electric drivers —- and this one has no drawbacks so far.

Remember, a proper arsenal of tools is part of who we are as reel techs —- and every set of tools and operator skills will be different.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

I'm with Henry on this one. I basically quit using power screw drivers years ago. I want to feel where I'm at in the process. About the only time I'll use a power screw driver is on an exterior deck or some other type of rough work. I don't even install door locks with a power driver. Heck, the only time I use my impact is to loosen the nut or bolt. I have seen way too many stripped or crossed threads by people that thought they were tradesmen or mechanics. I would rather work on a project rather than try to fix a screwup.