Anyone fish with an abu morrum for salmon in rivers? You like or?

[pointbob]

I was thinking of getting an abu morrum 5600 or 6600 for drift fishing salmon (pacific north west). I've owned a lot of abu reels but never a morrum.

How do you like it. or not lol?

Would the experience be much different then a 5600c3/6600c3? I talking about the older morrums in the 1 piece aluminum. Thanks.

[whalebreath]

Used one for a while but found the pawl gear that doesn't move when casting to be a disadvantage when using spectra fibre line-so it's a backup saltwater Coho unit now.

edit I should explain further-freshwater fishing for Salmon in BC means more than casting lures we also do a lot of float fishing - drifting small pieces of yarn, a plastic worm or even roe under a float; this requires a natural presentation and that means the line must come off the spool smoothly & evenly something that's not possible if the pawl & the position of the line on the spool are too opposed.

[Donnyboat]

There not a very wide reel, you could remove the line level, place some ceramic bearings in it, it would cast a country mile, good luck cheers Don.

[pointbob]

Used one for a while but found the pawl gear that doesn't move when casting to be a disadvantage when using spectra fibre line-so it's a backup saltwater Coho unit now.

edit I should explain further-freshwater fishing for Salmon in BC means more than casting lures we also do a lot of float fishing - drifting small pieces of yarn, a plastic worm or even roe under a float; this requires a natural presentation and that means the line must come off the spool smoothly & evenly something that's not possible if the pawl & the position of the line on the spool are too opposed.

good point; I'm in BC and drift fish a lot. However isn't the issue of the line coming off the line the same with all abu reels? ie...most pawls don't move when line being cast out...

[nelz]

I believe with the Morrums starting at 6000+ size, the guide follows the line at all times (synchronized). The smaller Morrums don't. With the classic Ambassadeurs most sizes are synchronized.

[whalebreath]

good point; I'm in BC and drift fish a lot. However isn't the issue of the line coming off the line the same with all abu reels? ie...most pawls don't move when line being cast out...

I believe with the Morrums starting at 6000+ size, the guide follows the line at all times (synchronized). The smaller Morrums don't. With the classic Ambassadeurs most sizes are synchronized.

OK Thanks for that double checking I see the Morrum I have is a 5600 and the Abu's I used to use river fishing were 6500's it all makes sense now.

[Hardy Boy]

I like the line being synchronized for drift fishing. I have a nice abu 6500 for sale if you are interested. I live on Vancouver Island so mail is no problem.


Cheers:

Todd

[oc1]

With a synchronized levelwind, the idler gear, worm gean, carriage and line guide all have to move at full speed when casting.  That's a lot of moving parts and a lot of friction to overcome. 

With a disengaging levelwind the line has to move laterally to get to the line guide as it comes off the spool, but you still have less friction.  Less friction results in longer casts.

[pointbob]

With a synchronized levelwind, the idler gear, worm gean, carriage and line guide all have to move at full speed when casting.  That's a lot of moving parts and a lot of friction to overcome. 

With a disengaging levelwind the line has to move laterally to get to the line guide as it comes off the spool, but you still have less friction.  Less friction results in longer casts.

I totally see that and understand why abu designed the morrum for the benefits of casting distance. Fortunately the levelwind ENGAGES when a fish is pulling drag so there is no friction at tough geometry angles on the line guide with a big fish. THe level wind DOES move back and forth in that scenario very well (when pulling line).

My question (or maybe I'll test it) is when drift fishing roe or wool on a river (with float) and you are in free spool...does it really make any difference at all to the "natural presentation" that the level wind remains stationary during that scenario.

I think a lot of other factors like how smoothly the spool spins and the bearings are oiled and even touching up the contact points with a dremel could minimize any advantage a moving level wind actually has over the morrum. I've got a few abus that are classic style and the level wind engages when drifting...I'll test it out tomorrow on the vedder....

whew a lot of words over fishing lol...

 

[whalebreath]

My question (or maybe I'll test it) is when drift fishing roe or wool on a river (with float) and you are in free spool...does it really make any difference at all to the "natural presentation" that the level wind remains stationary during that scenario.

It certainly does when using something like Fireline which for whatever reason has become my favourite spectra based product for freshwater of all types.

YMMV of course.

[tincanary]

The 5600 and 6600 Morrums have the synchronized level wind.  Like was said above, it does introduce friction.  On the other hand, if it were a disengaging level wind like the 1600 and 3600 sizes, the line may come off the spool at too steep of an angle depending on where the line guide may be on the cast.  This too would cause friction.  If you want to free it up, polish the friction points and use a very light oil in those spots.  Where I'd polish; the spool shaft ends, idler gear stud, worm gear end, and the pawl itself.  The drag stack on these is the same as the Ambassadeur made from '92 to present, so it's nice and beefy with plenty of power if you need it.  It's a fine float fishing reel and will work well.

[pointbob]

The 5600 and 6600 Morrums have the synchronized level wind.  Like was said above, it does introduce friction.  On the other hand, if it were a disengaging level wind like the 1600 and 3600 sizes, the line may come off the spool at too steep of an angle depending on where the line guide may be on the cast.  This too would cause friction.  If you want to free it up, polish the friction points and use a very light oil in those spots.  Where I'd polish; the spool shaft ends, idler gear stud, worm gear end, and the pawl itself.  The drag stack on these is the same as the Ambassadeur made from '92 to present, so it's nice and beefy with plenty of power if you need it.  It's a fine float fishing reel and will work well.

thanks tim

just a dremel and some metal polish be ok?

[tincanary]

The 5600 and 6600 Morrums have the synchronized level wind.  Like was said above, it does introduce friction.  On the other hand, if it were a disengaging level wind like the 1600 and 3600 sizes, the line may come off the spool at too steep of an angle depending on where the line guide may be on the cast.  This too would cause friction.  If you want to free it up, polish the friction points and use a very light oil in those spots.  Where I'd polish; the spool shaft ends, idler gear stud, worm gear end, and the pawl itself.  The drag stack on these is the same as the Ambassadeur made from '92 to present, so it's nice and beefy with plenty of power if you need it.  It's a fine float fishing reel and will work well.

thanks tim

just a dremel and some metal polish be ok?

Yep.  Simichrome and Brasso are my favorites.  You don't want to use a coarse polish.  The idea is to remove any embedded dirt or oxidation, not remove material.

[pointbob]

 

The 5600 and 6600 Morrums have the synchronized level wind.  Like was said above, it does introduce friction.  On the other hand, if it were a disengaging level wind like the 1600 and 3600 sizes, the line may come off the spool at too steep of an angle depending on where the line guide may be on the cast.  This too would cause friction.  If you want to free it up, polish the friction points and use a very light oil in those spots.  Where I'd polish; the spool shaft ends, idler gear stud, worm gear end, and the pawl itself.  The drag stack on these is the same as the Ambassadeur made from '92 to present, so it's nice and beefy with plenty of power if you need it.  It's a fine float fishing reel and will work well.

thanks tim

just a dremel and some metal polish be ok?

Yep.  Simichrome and Brasso are my favorites.  You don't want to use a coarse polish.  The idea is to remove any embedded dirt or oxidation, not remove material.

so you wouldn't endorse this "aggressive" method? 

[tincanary]

The 5600 and 6600 Morrums have the synchronized level wind.  Like was said above, it does introduce friction.  On the other hand, if it were a disengaging level wind like the 1600 and 3600 sizes, the line may come off the spool at too steep of an angle depending on where the line guide may be on the cast.  This too would cause friction.  If you want to free it up, polish the friction points and use a very light oil in those spots.  Where I'd polish; the spool shaft ends, idler gear stud, worm gear end, and the pawl itself.  The drag stack on these is the same as the Ambassadeur made from '92 to present, so it's nice and beefy with plenty of power if you need it.  It's a fine float fishing reel and will work well.

thanks tim

just a dremel and some metal polish be ok?

Yep.  Simichrome and Brasso are my favorites.  You don't want to use a coarse polish.  The idea is to remove any embedded dirt or oxidation, not remove material.

so you wouldn't endorse this "aggressive" method? 

I would not.  The brush he's using looks too coarse.  I use llama hair brushes for gears in fine and medium grade.  They're used for polishing jewelry and non abrasive.  If you use something abrasive, the teeth may not mesh correctly and be counterproductive.  You don't want to scar the material or else that will attract dirt in the long run. He's also not running the brush at the same angle as the gear teeth, which coupled with a coarse brush will have a negative effect.