I want to buy CARBONTEX DRAG WASHER SHEET. Which width and how to cut?

Started by pointbob, October 30, 2022, 06:50:58 PM

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pointbob

Hey all

I want to save some money and buy a CARBONTEX DRAG WASHER SHEET. Can you tell me what width i should get for abu 5500 and 6500 reels?

there's a bunch... .6mm  1.1mm etc

Also is there a simple magyver way to cut them the right size? I'm handy and creative lol..

Here's a link to some ebay sellers which shows the diff sizes avail..appreciate any feedback...

ps...do you have to use drag grease with carbontex? thx

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=CARBONTEX+DRAG+WASHER+SHEET&_sacat=261030&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=carbon+drag++sheet&_osacat=261030
Patience comes to those who wait

Swami805

Cals if you like it smooth. I'm thinking a good set of bunches to cut them. To me it's more trouble than it's worth by the time you get everything you need to cut them
Do what you can with that you have where you are

ReelClean

.5mm is standard, .65 will usually fit in the stack.  Sometimes I have to mix .5 & .65mm to keep the top washer in the maingear.  I have a set of concentric punches (about $400 worth) so it is a doddle to get perfect washers, but prob not worth buying the sheet and trying to McGyver it all up for a sub par final result; just buy them from somewhere like Smoothdrag.
cheers
Steve
Specialist Daiwa reel service, including Magseal.

borntofish

Buy a spring divider and file the outside arm into a cutting edge. Then it's just a simple matter of measuring your old washers and adjusting the diver to half the diameter. You just turn it around on the sheet until you cut through. Do the same next for the inner circle.

It's worth the trouble if you have several reels as you will save quite a bit compared to buying them already cut to size. Also, handy if the readymade washers are hard to find for your reel.   

handi2

Just get them from Dawn at Smooth Drag. Open an account with her for more savings.

Those reels will use .5 mm.

This is what I do when modifying the drag.
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

tincanary

Mayhew hole punches and an arbor press make it easy, but by that point you're looking at $500+ worth of tools.  Unless you're running a shop, it's best to buy them premade.

Brewcrafter

Pointbob - I will have to echo the experienced professionals above.  You made it clear you are "looking to save $$" but unless you have a literal truckload of Abu's then cutting your own drag washers is probably not going to get you the ROI you are looking for.  Not sure what your time is worth, but I say get the correct washers you need from Dawn and think about the time you are saving by doing a "plug a play" with quality parts as opposed to reinventing the wheel and making them.  And don't forget the Cal's, which is not inexpensive either but is certainly indispensable. Focus on the end product, a fine working reliable reel. - john

borntofish

A spring divider will do the job - just file the outside arm to make a cutting edge. At around $20 you will cover the cost after one or two reels. Also, if you have a less common reel you can make them to size. You have to dismantle the reel anyway and clean the drag surfaces, so an extra 45 min to measure and cut the washers is not that much in the scheme of things.

https://www.aimsindustrial.com.au/p-n-workshop-spring-divider-quick-adjust-150mm-hig?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwfiaBhC7ARIsAGvcPe4fYHp42HjINV5jTkhUnBArMzafwl-UNSK12BzQeqlbwomZwMc7-NMaAlq7EALw_wcB

Gfish

The reference from eBay you gave, is one I questioned here a while back. Note that they use the term "equivalent". What does that mean? I never found-out. So I wonder about the quality. If you buy these, let us know how they work-out.
Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!

jurelometer

Quote from: philaroman on October 31, 2022, 05:25:09 AMI really want someone to try this, before I do  ;) ;) ;)
(OR, explain why it's no good for CF...  aside from possibly wrong diameter range)



https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-68117.html?_br_psugg_q=carbide+hole+cutter

Since you asked...

The outer layers of drag washer sheets are resin starved (on purpose).  Fly cutters are going to want to tear and separate the weave.  Punches or small diameter specialized router bits will tear less.   Plus you need to  cut  both inner and outer diameters.  A fly clutter is going to struggle cutting the ID, and the ID will generally be too large to drill out.   And you have also to consider clamping and hold down when using a fly cutter.

A punch would be my first choice, then I would see if a scribe could be sharpened enough  to cut through carbon fiber sheets.  A router and template would be my next choice, but then you have to deal with  the health issues and electrical short circuit risk from carbon fiber dust.

Nothing  wrong with buying pre-cut drag washers if they are available in the size that you need.  If you decide to cut your own, maybe do some reading and make sure that you are comfortable with the risks involved in cutting carbon fiber sheets.

-J

philaroman



oops...  deleted after noticing many bad reviews of alleged "carbide cutters" being junk
but, thanks -- good to know that's wrong design, as well as bad materials

pointbob

oh wow thanks for the info!  :d

you all gave me the idea of file down the outside of a hose clamp to sharpen it up a bit and then hammering it down on the sheet. That would be for the outside ring; and then use a drill bit forward and reverse to trim on the middle.
Patience comes to those who wait

Gfish

Sounds like a good idea... hose clamps are thin but pretty sturdy steel, and adjustable. Hopefully the circumference won't tweak outta shape.
I cut an inner diameter hole, then use a Dremel sanding bit to get it smooth and round. Dust mask!
Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!

PacRat

If you decide to try the sharpened hose clamp, I would suggest using the fly-cutter to make a wood core to cinch the hose clamp around. This will keep the clamp circle round and will give it some vertical support while hammerings. Your edge may or may not be true and accurate, so hammer all the way around then turn slightly and hammer again. Do this until the cut is complete. Use a 1/4" drill or dowel through the hole in the wood puck to keep the hose clamp cutter true and centered. Do the large O.D. first the open up the 1/4" I.D. with a drill or dremel. Seems to ne there is a trick to drilling the I.D. to larger diameters. I use punches like I learned from Sal.   

pointbob

Quote from: PacRat on October 31, 2022, 04:51:30 PMIf you decide to try the sharpened hose clamp, I would suggest using the fly-cutter to make a wood core to cinch the hose clamp around. This will keep the clamp circle round and will give it some vertical support while hammerings. Your edge may or may not be true and accurate, so hammer all the way around then turn slightly and hammer again. Do this until the cut is complete. Use a 1/4" drill or dowel through the hole in the wood puck to keep the hose clamp cutter true and centered. Do the large O.D. first the open up the 1/4" I.D. with a drill or dremel. Seems to ne there is a trick to drilling the I.D. to larger diameters. I use punches like I learned from Sal.   

natural engineering you have. thank you. I hadn't considered the need for a bracing effect of the hose clamp but your idea is symmetrically poetic; and practical.
Patience comes to those who wait