Fred’s Excellent Adventure in Ultrasonic Cleaners

[foakes]

Firearm parts work fine.

Go easy on the type of cleaners if doing blued parts.

Composite parts are like graphite reels —- careful with the types of cleaners.

For SS or steel parts —- no issues.

Best, Fred

[Propster]

Fred or anyone,
what jars or bowls are you using to fit a whole baitcaster frame in for cleaning?  And have you ever had Simple Green harm the finish on any frame? I've had it dull the finish on ABU Revo Toro Beasts, and put some kind of discolorization or film on Calcuttas (gold). And lastly does Simple green cut the grease completely without heat? I've not had great luck getting them completely clean like the drive gears packed with dirty grease.  I wonder if my cleaner just doesn't have the vibration necessary

[foakes]

Fred or anyone,
what jars or bowls are you using to fit a whole baitcaster frame in for cleaning?  And have you ever had Simple Green harm the finish on any frame? I've had it dull the finish on ABU Revo Toro Beasts, and put some kind of discolorization or film on Calcuttas (gold). And lastly does Simple green cut the grease completely without heat? I've not had great luck getting them completely clean like the drive gears packed with dirty grease.  I wonder if my cleaner just doesn't have the vibration necessary

Here is what I do —- there are many variations depending on the person, the reels worked on, the volume of reels worked on, as well as personal preferences.

Wide mouth jars are used in glass or plastic for larger parts.

If you have a very large part —- like large Senator plates —- baggies can be used.

Small parts go in jelly or pickle jars.

Yes, a powerful US cleaner is the best.

As to solutions —-

Simple Green mixed with 50/50 water for aluminum and plastic interior parts.

SG will ruin anodized metals such as ABU sideplates, painted metal parts, and some exterior plastics —- if kept in for more than a few minutes.  So be careful.

Lacquer Thinner is used for Steel, SS, Brass, Bronze, etc. 
—- but never for plastics, painted surfaces, anodized surfaces, etc.  I never use the heat feature on my US Cleaners —- and never put a lid on the top of the containers.  These types of solutions and cleaners are flammable and could be dangerous —- be careful.

I always cap the solvent type containers after each use — never during the US Cleaner operating.  This is basic safety 101.

For plastic, painted metals, etc. —- I use HD Blue Dawn dish soap with about 80% warm water.

Never use Lacquer Thinner with a plastic container —- always glass.

Everything is rinsed, dried, then touched up with a wire wheel, "0000" steel wool, and Nevr-Dull, as needed afterwards.

There is an experience and learning curve —- but it works well.

I have used a US cleaner for well over 25 years —- on thousands of reels.

Best, Fred

[Propster]

Thanks for the tutorial Fred. And just plain water in the cleaner? Does it have to be at or above the level of the parts? Do you have a recommendation for the frequency or power of a new cleaner?  How long do you generally keep parts in the cleaner?

[foakes]

Thanks for the tutorial Fred. And just plain water in the cleaner? Does it have to be at or above the level of the parts? Do you have a recommendation for the frequency or power of a new cleaner?  How long do you generally keep parts in the cleaner?

Yes, just plain water.

It should be at or above the parts level.  Best to keep it full up so that the sonic waves work with the water.  Not good to run it dry.

With my old unit, substantial steel, bronze, or SS parts were kept in the cleaner for one or two 10 minute cycles —- depending on how bad they went in.

With my new one —- seems like 8 or 10 minutes is all it takes to come out even cleaner.  Painted,plastic, or anodized parts come out in about half that time.

Here are the specs on my current US Cleaner.  Vevor, 10 liters.  Paid $125 with a coupon discount.

Best, Fred

[reelynew]

Hi Fred and anyone else who has an UC cleaner.  I wanted to confirm, if you can use a plastic container inside of the UC reservoir?  Also, to maximize the size of the part that you can clean, without having to use chemicals inside of the UC reservoir directly, has anyone found a plastic container that fits nicely into their UC? 

Thanks,

Matt

[foakes]

Yes, Matt —-

I use plastic candy, nut, or Tupperware containers for Simple Green and HD Dawn Dish Soap.

For Lacquer Thinner —- I use glass jars.

I never use the heat setting.

Best, Fred

[ReelClean]

I have the same cleaner as Fred (but in the digital format) and I have found myself using the heating function most of the time now; it just cuts through that old grease so much more effectively. 
My process is to set the heat to 45c when first fired up, then turn it off when it gets up to temp because the agitation of the water bath tends to keep the temp up during prolonged use.  I use glass containers exclusively. My theory is that the glass transmits the vibration more efficiently than plastic (and is easier to clean out), but I have no scientific basis for that opinion.

cheers
Steve

[reelynew]

Thank you both Fred and Steve,

I noticed that glass beakers and pyrex were commonly used and recommended as vessels inside of the reservoir on multiple other websites.  Your observations Steve seem to be spot on.

Does anyone have the model which can adjust the frequency between 36-40Khz?

I'm looking to see if that would expand its use case.

https://www.vevor.com/ultrasonic-cleaner-c_11064/vevor-ultrasonic-cleaner-jewelry-cleaning-machine-w-digital-timer-and-heater-p_010848941076

Thanks All,

Matt

[ReelClean]

Thank you both Fred and Steve,

I noticed that glass beakers and pyrex were commonly used and recommended as vessels inside of the reservoir on multiple other websites.  Your observations Steve seem to be spot on.

Does anyone have the model which can adjust the frequency between 36-40Khz?

I'm looking to see if that would expand its use case.

https://www.vevor.com/ultrasonic-cleaner-c_11064/vevor-ultrasonic-cleaner-jewelry-cleaning-machine-w-digital-timer-and-heater-p_010848941076

Thanks All,

Matt

I think a sweep function is supposed to stop damage by local cavitation/boiling of the water on less durable items.  I don't use either that, nor the de-gas function on mine for cleaning of any type of item.

[reelynew]

Thank you Steve.

Has anyone used vinegar inside of a glass container inside of the reservoir to help clean kitchen sink aerators?  I usually soak mine to help loosen up what's accumulated, but am thinking that the UC will really help.  Just wanted to make sure if vinegar was a big no-no.

Matt

[foakes]

Plain white vinegar works to arrest the continuation of the green Verdigris on salt reels.

Also works well on things that might be food grade cleaning.

Like all solutions you might try —- experiment a little first.

If things are kept in too long, and/or with too much heat —-damage could occur to what you are cleaning.

As an example —- I use HD blue Dawn dish soap for stuff that is painted, anodized, or plastics —- no issues.  Nice and clean.

If I really need to get some dirt off of plastics in a hurry —- Simple Green 50/50 water —- drop the plastic piece in the cat —- only 90 seconds —- no more —- clean as a whistle.

Lacquer thinner for unpainted brass, SS, Steel, Aluminum, alloys, etc..

Then my wife's jewelry, drain screens, shower drain screens, small parts for equipment, etc.

Best, Fred

[reelynew]

Hey Fred and Steve,

Sounds like you both are very happy with your purchase.  Do you ever feel that you could have used a larger sized unit for soaking other materials?  Was your decision on size based on available space in your work area or a technical matter on the specific unit?

Matt

[foakes]

This size works for my projects.

Out in the metal shop and powder-coating shop I have other things like a large blasting cabinet, cartridge tumbler, compressors and sand blasters, another US cleaner in the same size, parts washer, etc.

But for reel work —- this size is great, I basically just appreciate the analog controls which last well over time, the SS construction, powerful performance —- and the ability to use 3 types of cleaning solutions at the same time to speed jobs up.

Simple and effective.

Best, Fred

[reelynew]

Thank you for answering my questions.  You both picked a great size for the power/cost.  I had been building up a use case for this purchase outside of reels for sometime.  After hemming and hawing on this, I bought the 10L with the analog controls too.  Doing the math, the 10L at that cost gave the most amount of wattage per square inch.  That value decreased when going to the 15L, while not gaining much space either.  I would have to go up to 22L to get more power and at that price, wasn't worth it (for me).