Static Magging a Shimano TN14A

[DaBig2na]

So, before I go drilling a hole in this expensive reel to put a knobby mag on it.
I'm wondering if anyone has done a static mag job on these newer Trinidads

If so what did you do, and your results

I have an older gold 14 and it's a casting machine definitely my favorite out of the 15 or so surfcasting reels I own .. the silver reels in the 12, 14, and 16 were not made with any brakes like the old gold ones. They are super fast even for advanced OBX surf caster.

[JasonGotaProblem]

DIY magging is the rabbit hole I currently live in. Gonna throw an idea at you. Find out how far the side plate is from the spool. Get yourself an appropriate length (probably 3/8") stainless steel 10-32 size pan-head screw and a 10-32 nylon insert lock nut, and a 1/4" neodymium magnet. Using a drill and a pair of tweezers remove the nylon ring. The magnet will fit perfectly into the spot the nylon ring came from. Epoxy the head of the screw to the inside face of the side plate, and screw the lock nut with the mag into it. The result is an ADJUSTABLE static mag that required no drilling and is removable (depending on your choice of epoxy)

[DaBig2na]

DIY magging is the rabbit hole I currently live in. Gonna throw an idea at you. Find out how far the side plate is from the spool. Get yourself an appropriate length (probably 3/8") stainless steel 10-32 size pan-head screw and a 10-32 nylon insert lock nut, and a 1/4" neodymium magnet. Using a drill and a pair of tweezers remove the nylon ring. The magnet will fit perfectly into the spot the nylon ring came from. Epoxy the head of the screw to the inside face of the side plate, and screw the lock nut with the mag into it. The result is an ADJUSTABLE static mag that required no drilling and is removable (depending on your choice of epoxy)

Well that's not really what I had in mind however it sounds like a good idea.. You got any pictures.

I'm still interested if anyone else has static magged the above mentioned reel or possibly the 12a or the 16a

[nelz]

Hey Jason, your idea sounds very interesting, but I'm not totally grasping it all. A few photos would really help me understand what you've done.

[thorhammer]

Steve, is this you?

John

[JasonGotaProblem]

Ok this is the first crap attempt at a DIY knobby mag so this is with a bolt thru the sideplate. But the concept is the same because the magnet takes zero structural load so if you only have 2 threads of grip its ok. So you adjust by tightening and loosening the nut instead of in my case the knob on the other side of the plate. (I was also adjusting thread depth to fine tune the min and max)

Steve has something similar pretty dialed in too.

[Cor]

Yes I did a silver Trini for a friend but it's the same for most reels and it works perfectly.  You do not really need an adjustable mag, though it does have it's advantages when fishing in difficult casting conditions or if maximum distance is required.

Remove the side plate and find a suitable spot where to place the magnet.  Measure the distance from the spool to the side plate, I use a small piece of plasticine and squeeze it between the spool and the frame.  Some petroleum jelly to stop the plasticine from sticking too much.

You probably want to use a 10 X 3 mm round rare earth magnet.    Your gap between the magnet and the spool should be about 1 mm but this is dependent on how much braking you want.

You then need to make a spacer to fit under the magnet (between the magnet and the side plate) I use a piece of PVC.  Glue the spacer in place, Epoxy, but I prefer hotmelt as it is much easier to remove.  I initially make it slightly thicker then required making your mag slightly too tight, its easier to grind a little away if needed.

The fiddly bit is to go and test cast it and then hopefully you need to make your spacer a bit thinner.  Even the amount of glue you use can be a factor.
PS   I like Jasons Idea as it will make the final adjusting a lot easier!

I usually do a somewhat rough job and have the best intentions to neaten it up once I have determined the correct spacing for the reel, but as nobody sees it, this usually never happens.

Most magnets are set loose on a metal cup or plate, but I am concerned that the magnet may become loose or shift.    I dropped a rod and reel and the magnet fell from its cup, making the reel inoperative and worse, unopenable ..... I don't remember how I eventually got it fixed but only that it was a struggle.

[steelfish]

I havent static magged a Trinidad A series, but I static magged a gold trinidad 16 I had, eventho that model comes with a centrifugal brake I was having hard time controlling the spool speed when casting irons or spoons, so I opted to static magged it and it worked pretty good for my style of fishing aka my lack of "thumb brake control"

this is how I did it which might or not apply to the new trinidad A series.

first step was to find a plastic piece that once glued to the rounded sideplate gave me a flat surface, I opted for a plastic piece to avoid any kind of corrosion, them I cut and glued a flat metal in order to put the magnets there without any glue, after going to the field to try the magnets I ended up leaving 3 small magnets that worked as I wanted with most of my casting irons and spoons.

it worked so well for me that I used the same method on another 3 different casting reels

[DaBig2na]

Steve, is this you?

John

There is Only One DaBIG2NA 👍  
He is found somewhere on the OBX usually on Hatteras Island but he's been spotted as far north in Carova and as far south as Ocracoke inlet.

[thorhammer]

What's up brother! I got the green Mag Elite from you on the way to OBX last May. Took your advice and picked up a 1305 blank when I went back in Oct.; building now. Hope you are well!

[DaBig2na]

What's up brother! I got the green Mag Elite from you on the way to OBX last May. Took your advice and picked up a 1305 blank when I went back in Oct.; building now. Hope you are well!

All Good Bro! I just picked up the CTS 1205 blank for the beach specifically. I still love my 1305 as well.
I was on Hatteras Island every weekend since Labor Day except 2. Had one hell of a Fall with lots of Citation sized Drum. I know that Mag Elite is in Good Hand and some one who will take care of it.

[DaBig2na]

Yes I did a silver Trini for a friend but it's the same for most reels and it works perfectly.  You do not really need an adjustable mag, though it does have it's advantages when fishing in difficult casting conditions or if maximum distance is required.

Remove the side plate and find a suitable spot where to place the magnet.  Measure the distance from the spool to the side plate, I use a small piece of plasticine and squeeze it between the spool and the frame.  Some petroleum jelly to stop the plasticine from sticking too much.

You probably want to use a 10 X 3 mm round rare earth magnet.    Your gap between the magnet and the spool should be about 1 mm but this is dependent on how much braking you want.

You then need to make a spacer to fit under the magnet (between the magnet and the side plate) I use a piece of PVC.  Glue the spacer in place, Epoxy, but I prefer hotmelt as it is much easier to remove.  I initially make it slightly thicker then required making your mag slightly too tight, its easier to grind a little away if needed.

The fiddly bit is to go and test cast it and then hopefully you need to make your spacer a bit thinner.  Even the amount of glue you use can be a factor.
PS   I like Jasons Idea as it will make the final adjusting a lot easier!

I usually do a somewhat rough job and have the best intentions to neaten it up once I have determined the correct spacing for the reel, but as nobody sees it, this usually never happens.

Most magnets are set loose on a metal cup or plate, but I am concerned that the magnet may become loose or shift.    I dropped a rod and reel and the magnet fell from its cup, making the reel inoperative and worse, unopenable ..... I don't remember how I eventually got it fixed but only that it was a struggle.

What strength Neodymium magnets did you use? There are so many variables....My other question is couldn't you have used a Depth Gauge to measure the depth of the spool to the side plate? Or am I misunderstanding?

My 14 puts 8nBait out there and I only need 2 brakes on.. I could go a little faster but more blow ups will occur.... also keep in mind I'm using a 12-13' surf rod and an extra few ounces of bait, Hatteras style casting off the beach or pier. ....I'm not sure your metals are that heavy so I do see the need for extra braking . That thing has six centrifugal brakes in it and it was still to fast with all six on?

[Cor]

 @ DaBig2na
I am not aware that you actually get different strength, the strength is determined by the size and I have used a few different sizes but always come back to 10 X 3 mm.   On some of my older heavier reels I have used 2 or even 3 magnets and like steelfish you need to alternate the polarities.

What type of depth gauge would you use, https://www.mcmaster.com/Depth-Gauges/ I can't see how you would do it because to measure it you need to assemble the side plate and spool leaving no space to fit a depth gauge.

Help me right?

[JasonGotaProblem]

To measure the depth one would have to first measure the depth of the outside of the spool to the lip of the spool (call it value A), then measure the inside face of the side plate to the edge of the frame (call it B), then install the spool, Mark with tape the visible edge of the spool, take it back out and measure that distance from tape edge to the lip of the spool (call it distance C, which is the amount of the spool covered by the frame. So A + B - C = distance from inside face of side plate to outside face of the spool.

[Cor]

To measure the depth one would have to first measure the depth of the outside of the spool to the lip of the spool (call it value A), then measure the inside face of the side plate to the edge of the frame (call it B), then install the spool, Mark with tape the visible edge of the spool, take it back out and measure that distance from tape edge to the lip of the spool (call it distance C, which is the amount of the spool covered by the frame. So A + B - C = distance from inside face of side plate to outside face of the spool.

Yeah OK.   I only have primitive tools here.

With your plan to use a nut and screw a Nylock nut may be useful and avoid using a spring...... https://www.mcmaster.com/nylock-nuts/
It may then be a semi static Mag that can be adjusted only by opening the sideplate?