Double locking nut and down locking reel seat

Started by jzman, March 11, 2023, 12:24:04 PM

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jzman

I have an cheap SPJ casting rod ($150) that has a second locking nut and it's a down-locked reel seat configuration.  First time I seen a reel seat like this.  The locking nut makes the reel foot (Penn FTH15xnld2 or FTH25nld) not fit.  I don't want to grind away my reel foot, so I'm thinking I could use a dremel to cut the second locking nut off...please talk me out of it or tell me the best way to get the nut off without destroying the rod :) .

Donnyboat

Gee stick with the double, A single locking knut ofter works loose, & you dont notice until, you have fish on. cheers Don.
Don, or donnyboat

JasonGotaProblem

Spin the rod while sanding the bottom oc the foregrip. You can narrow it enough that the lock ring goes up the foregrip enough to get your reel foot in. Done it before but it was a new build.
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philaroman

Quote from: Donnyboat on March 11, 2023, 01:02:36 PMGee stick with the double, A single locking knut ofter works loose, & you dont notice until, you have fish on. cheers Don.

X2...  single nuts work themselves loose
even really wide plastic ones on budget UL

besides, you don't want to be known as "one-nut jzman"   ::)

oldmanjoe

Quote from: jzman on March 11, 2023, 12:24:04 PMI have an cheap SPJ casting rod ($150) that has a second locking nut and it's a down-locked reel seat configuration.  First time I seen a reel seat like this.  The locking nut makes the reel foot (Penn FTH15xnld2 or FTH25nld) not fit.  I don't want to grind away my reel foot, so I'm thinking I could use a dremel to cut the second locking nut off...please talk me out of it or tell me the best way to get the nut off without destroying the rod :) .
Have you tried inserting it top first and if that doesn`t work try bottom first . The hoods are a little different on some reel seats ?
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jzman

#5
Quote from: oldmanjoeHave you tried inserting it top first and if that doesn`t work try bottom first . The hoods are a little different on some reel seats ?

Yep tried both ways wont fit.

Swami805

If it was me I'd cut off the offending lock nut. Shouldn't be too difficult to figure out a way to keep the remaining nut secure
Do what you can with that you have where you are

jurelometer

Quote from: jzman on March 11, 2023, 12:24:04 PMI have an cheap SPJ casting rod ($150) that has a second locking nut and it's a down-locked reel seat configuration.  First time I seen a reel seat like this.  The locking nut makes the reel foot (Penn FTH15xnld2 or FTH25nld) not fit.  I don't want to grind away my reel foot, so I'm thinking I could use a dremel to cut the second locking nut off...please talk me out of it or tell me the best way to get the nut off without destroying the rod :) .

As you have noted, the downlocking orientation makes this more of a risk.

Downlocking seats are often used on conventional rods when you are more likely to palm the reel. The base of your hand will press against the grip instead of reel seat threads.

The downside of downlocking seats is that the load will pull the reel foot against the movable hood instead of the fixed hood.

Aluminum reel seats have  threads that are sort of rounded, and don't hold as well or as evenly as clean cut threads (but they also don't get damaged as easily). And since the hoods are not very flexible, and reel feet are all different shapes, the foot rarely locks in cleanly with a large surface contact area.  These two issues can cause the fit to get a bit loose under load.   A lock nut doesn't just keep the main nut from turning backwards, it makes it possible to maintain more clamping load on the reel foot.

As a side note, this is why I am a fan of nylon "(graphite") seats.  The hoods will conform a bit more to the shape of the foot, won't scratch the foot, and the thread shape that can be molded in will generally grip well enough that a lock ring is an option in many cases (but not downlocking IMHO).

All of the aluminum reel seats that I have seen have two threaded nuts, so  only one can be a lock nut.  For two lock nuts, you would need three nuts total.  Haven't seen that.  But have seen reels seats with two nuts marketed as "dual locking nuts".  Sigh...

I would personally never remove a lock nut from a reel seat, especially not from an aluminum seat and especially not from a downlocking seat on a saltwater slow pitch rod, where you are supposed to winch more with the reel and do less of the pump and wind. 

Grinding the reel foot down would also possibly allow you to improve the fit to the hood for this particular reel seat, but since the Fathoms have a riveted foot, you won't have the option of later going back to stock by replacing the foot.

I like Jason's idea of making  a bit of clearance where the front grip meets the reel seat.

OTOH, a good reel clamp will hold the reel in place all by itself if the barrel of the reel seat is not some sort of goofy modern design that prevents a good clamp grip.

Some (most?) slow pitch jiggers don't like using clamps, especially on smaller reels, as it can interfere with getting a comfortable palming grip. A common  slow pitch retrieve requires a herky-jerky wind on the lift, and palming the reel is really useful here.

-J