Drag Disk Cleaning

[Classtime]

I've always used (and reused) Kerosene to degrease bicycle bearings, gears, etc. But the smaller scale and closer tolerances of nice fishing reels and recommendations here have me researching other solvents and I will likely move to Acetone for a cleaner result.

BUT...Are the solvents recommended for fishing reel gears safe to use on drag disks? I've been afraid to soak or scrub drag disks with solvents and just brush on a layer of Cals but that can't be optimal.

[JasonGotaProblem]

I'm learning to avoid acetone. Its not your friend.

In general, in my opinion if drags are messed up they need replacement. They are quite difficult to clean.

[Swami805]

If you're just servicing your own reels like me I use carburetor cleaner in a spray can. Put the parts in a container and spray them, let them soak in the residual in the container. Another little spray later to knock of chunky stuff. If you doing a lot of reels it would be expensive to use. Outdoors of course

[boon]

Brake parts cleaner.

[JRD]

I've had luck with carbon fiber just using dawn dish soap, a tooth brush and warm water.  The only time I need this is when the disks have been contaminated with salt, oil or other grease not meant for drags.  I believe I learned that here.

[bluefish69]

I just finished 3 Newell reels with Carbon Fibre Dtrag washers. I used Gunk Carb Cleaner & put the Bearing in the same container. everything came out spiffy & the owner is very happy. I used Cal's on the washers & PSI 321 onthe bearings. OPEN 1 SIDE OF THE BEARINGS before cleaning.

Mike

[Keta]

Acetone, carb and brake cleaner are all hazardous.  I tend to use gasoline and acetone and do it outside. Gas works well but leaves a film, acetone evaporates off fast.  I clean everything but CF drags with gas, acetone for the drag washers.

[Midway Tommy]

For me it depends on the disc material. I only service spinners and very few of them have carbon fiber disc's. I clean all my drag washers, except those that are plastic, with a good lacquer thinner soak. If I'm unsure of the material and they're not terribly gunned up I just dip them in the lacquer thinner quickly and wipe them off. If they're still dirty I'll do it again. Solvents like lacquer thinner, acetone, xylenol, carb/brake cleaner, etc. are just fine if you know when, and how, to use them.

[Classtime]

Ok. None of these solvents will weaken the adhesive or whatever binds the carbon fibers in the drag disks? Some reels have been neglected and the grease and grime cannot just be wiped off. I want to give them a soak.

[kevin cozens]

I've always used (and reused) Kerosene to degrease bicycle bearings, gears, etc. But the smaller scale and closer tolerances of nice fishing reels and recommendations here have me researching other solvents and I will likely move to Acetone for a cleaner result.

BUT...Are the solvents recommended for fishing reel gears safe to use on drag disks? I've been afraid to soak or scrub drag disks with solvents and just brush on a layer of Cals but that can't be optimal.

i use lighter fluid to clean my reel bearings

[jurelometer]

Ok. None of these solvents will weaken the adhesive or whatever binds the carbon fibers in the drag disks? Some reels have been neglected and the grease and grime cannot just be wiped off. I want to give them a soak.

I've never seen a manufacturer list the resin used in the center of a CF drag washer. Maybe a high temp epoxy, maybe something else like some sort of phenolic resin, like they use in car brake pads.

Carbon fibers are inert and will resist solvents at ambient temperatures. Cured epoxy is pretty solvent resistant at ambient temperature for shorter periods of time, especially for the kind of solvents a consumer should be using. No idea about the other resins.

If the washers are already greased, just a wipe down with a cloth might be sufficient.  If they are not greased, but caked with salt- warm water is the best solvent for salt. Just rinse gently while rubbing lightly with a soft toothbrush.  Soap does nothing for salt.

If (as in your case,) you find a need to remove more old grease than with a simple wipe, Soaps can remove grease, but might leave a residue that will break down the next grease application.  So that leaves solvents.

You want a solvent that does not leave a residue.  That means none of the "magic"  cleaner/lube/protectant products like WD-40.  I opt for good old isopropyl alcohol for all my reel degreasing, but I am just a hobbyist and am not in hurry.  Maybe some light scrubbing with a soft toothbrush, and a wipedown.

Some of the other suggestions like brake cleaner or acetone will probably work as well, but I personally wouldn't soak the washers in it for long- the soft toothbrush is your friend.

My theory - start with the least toxic option, and see if that works. I have never had to go past 99% IPA for degreasing anything in a reel.

-J

[Brewcrafter]

Not that I'm into spending other folks money (and yes there are plenty of good reasons to justify restoring/reusing friction surfaces) but in thinking about it, the friction material in the drags is probably the highest "wear part" in any reel design and the one that even in a properly maintained reel is designed to wear and will wear out first.  Maybe I am looking through the wrong lens but Classtime's original question also included reference to the "closer tolerances of nicer reels" and that to me says most likely a pricier well built model with most likely plenty of factory (or aftermarket) support, particularly on drags.  And when you look at the cost of the disks (I know, I know, shipping can be a killer, particularly overseas - I did say there were myriad justified reasons for reusing old disks and that would be one of them) for many of those nicer reels, the cost of fresh friction materials is most likely a fraction of the value of the reel - and will give trouble-free/worry-free results for minimal outlay. My take is if drags are questionable - swap 'em.  That way you are not losing sleep when that personal best smashes your lure. This might be one of those situations where the "cheapest" solution is just to spend money to replace the part with new, and not invest time/chemicals/effort into a rejuvenation effort that in all probability may or may not even get you back to "as good as new".  john

[kevin cozens]

Personally unless the drag washer/s are hard to find i would just replace them with a set of carbontex drag washers. you can even buy sheets of the stuff to make your own drag washers. whats the point in wasting time trying to clean a set of washers.
I do though clean drag washers in lighter petrol to remove most crud but i ALWAY replace damaged or warn washers

[retiredandfishing]

Heat, pressure and/or vacuum are used in conjunction with a polymer based binding agent in many cases, in making carbon fiber.  This creates a composite that is essentially one piece, not woven.  Carbon fiber drags can be revived easily but soaking them in a strong solution can change the polymer binding agent somewhat if left long enough. The change in that binding agent will not be evident right away but can affect the life time of the carbon fiber. 

I'm a retired Boeing engineer who worked on some aircraft programs  which utilized some of the first large usages of carbon fiber in aircraft manufacture. I use isopropyl alcohol to clean carbon fiber drags, using a tooth brush if necessary.  Iso will dry out fast and does not leave a residue of any consequence.  But, in the applications we are talking about the stronger solvents should work without consequence if the drags are not soaked overly long in it.

[Squidder Bidder]

I've had luck with carbon fiber just using dawn dish soap, a tooth brush and warm water.  The only time I need this is when the disks have been contaminated with salt, oil or other grease not meant for drags.  I believe I learned that here.

This is a good idea but don't do it in your bathroom since things can get mixed up and this brew of soap, salt, and grease does not taste very good.