Penn 116L - Good information (**SOLD**Want To Buy Penn 116L Parts)

[Makule]

Got my 14/0 back a couple of days ago.  Looked very nice and clean, not like how I loan it out to a friend.  Though he, or someone, did a good job.  Ratchet didn't work so I opened it up and found no sprocket.  Is this contagious or what?

Oh, no! I'm sorry to hear that. Are you going to try to replace the sprocket.

Will try to replace it if I can find a replacement.  Will talk to my machinist friend about how to attach it.  I'm thinking that if a replacement sprocket can't be found, I'll take another spool with it on and see if there is some off-the-shelf item that's similar.  If too costly, maybe just get a very coarse gear of the proper OD/ID and use that.  Might make it sound better (but probably not louder).

[Makule]

A further complication just turned up.  I found an old broken spool from a 14/0 and removed the sprocket.  It had a keyed hole that mounts to the spool shaft.  The spool that I need to repair doesn't have the keyed shaft.  It is just round so the sprocket will not work on it.

Bob, is your shaft keyed or straight?

[Blue Collar Bob]

A further complication just turned up.  I found an old broken spool from a 14/0 and removed the sprocket.  It had a keyed hole that mounts to the spool shaft.  The spool that I need to repair doesn't have the keyed shaft.  It is just round so the sprocket will not work on it.

Bob, is your shaft keyed or straight?

If I'm understanding correctly, we both need the same sprocket. Here's the pic of mine:



Can you drill it out to work for you, or is the keyed diameter too large?

[Keta]

I thought we were talking clicker side not pinion side?    The clicker "gear" can be water cut or carefuly removed from a unuseable spool.  I have one I removed in the shop but it is for a project.

[Blue Collar Bob]

I thought we were talking clicker side not pinion side?    The clicker "gear" can be water cut or carefuly removed from a unuseable spool.  I have one I removed in the shop but it is for a project.

Not sure if your message was for me, or Makule. Here's a pic of the pinion(right) side of my spool:



PS- You wouldn't happen to know the outside diameter of the gear, would you?

[Keta]

You wouldn't happen to know the outside diameter of the gear, would you?

No, but it will be about .005 over the shaft OD.

[Blue Collar Bob]

You wouldn't happen to know the outside diameter of the gear, would you?

No, but it will be about .005 over the shaft OD.

Gotcha on that. Thanks. Curious about the measurement outside tooth to outside tooth. If I don't soon have luck finding a replacement, I'll try looking for alternatives. From photos it looks like 14 teeth.

[Makule]

A further complication just turned up.  I found an old broken spool from a 14/0 and removed the sprocket.  It had a keyed hole that mounts to the spool shaft.  The spool that I need to repair doesn't have the keyed shaft.  It is just round so the sprocket will not work on it.

Bob, is your shaft keyed or straight?

If I'm understanding correctly, we both need the same sprocket. Here's the pic of mine:



Can you drill it out to work for you, or is the keyed diameter too large?

Yes, the ID of the sprocket is already too large.

[Makule]

The OD of the shaft is 0.22", and the sprocket is "riveted" on.  The rivet consists, from what I could see, of a sleeve that fits over the shaft and over which the sprocket sits.  This sleeve is then flared over the sprocket.  Fairly simple, and my guess is that the sleeve may not have been made of SS.  Since I don't have the sprocket, I can't say what the ID is, but it probably doesn't matter much as long as the sleeve ID is slightly larger than the shaft, and the sleeve OD is slightly smaller than the ID of the sprocket. 

The OD of the sprocket is 1.06 and the number of teeth is 14.  Depth per tooth is about 1/8".  The number of teeth is not critical (I'd actually prefer it to have more) and the depth of tooth can be more than 1/8 (and doesn't need to be "v" shaped either, as the Pfleuger Templars and Atlapacs had "U" shape teeth).

If you notice in the image of the old type spool shown below, there are actually two pieces that make up the sprocket.  I don't know why this is, but could possibly be for ease of manufacturing (didn't have water jet those days).  Anyway, you can see that the sprockets are keyed onto the shaft, and they were then riveted in place.

[Dominick]

good job Makule. 

[Irish Jigger]

Would an internal tooth locking washer work here? They not stainless steel.

http://images.search.conduit.com/ImagePreview/?q=Locking%20washers&ctid=CT2769726&searchsource=10&start=35&pos=20

[Keta]

That might work to hold it in place, I have a few spools that have floppy clicker gears that work fine.  I was thinking about a slight interferance fit or a tight slip fit and tacking it in place with a TIG welder.

[Makule]

Would an internal tooth locking washer work here? They not stainless steel.

http://images.search.conduit.com/ImagePreview/?q=Locking%20washers&ctid=CT2769726&searchsource=10&start=35&pos=20

It would probably be somewhat too weak to hold it in for a good length of time.  Additionally, those are typically made of spring steel and not SS.  Finally, it would do nothing to hold the sprocket in position when turned (I.E., the tongue would make it slide on the shaft).

[Irish Jigger]

Sorry, I just realised that your spindle was not keyed!  Tig weld it.

[Makule]

Sorry, I just realised that your spindle was not keyed!  Tig weld it.

There are options for attaching the sprocket, but the main problem is getting a sprocket that will fit.