Beginner Looking for Help on Cheap Spinning Reels

[Clutch]

Hello All.

Stumbled onto this board linked from another when I went searching for what grease might be good for fishing reels. 

So I am a complete newbie when it comes to reels of really any type.  I used to fish way back when I was a youngin', and am starting to get back into it more with my own little ones.  As part of some cleaning out of a relative's basement, I was given a number of reels, some of which are a little sentimental, even if they dont have any real value as far as cost goes. 

They include a Daiwa B-130RL, a Zebco Pro Staff PSG20, a Shakespeare 100 Long Cast, and a couple Abu Garcia Cardinal Broncos. 

These reels have never been serviced, cleaned, greased, etc. at all.  What I was looking for was some help or advice on the best way to go about cleaning them up externally (they are dusty/dirty/oily), and then what a good plan is for getting them lubed and ready to go on a rod when one of my kids inevitably destroys the cheapie reel that they have now.

Im fairly mechanically inclined, and already have a number of oils/greases/cleaners, but dont know if this is a situation where I should really get the "right" stuff.  Should I be starting with something like WD-40 or Ballistol for an initial scrub?  What should I know that I shouldnt spray down or get solvents on? 

I see that 2nd Chance Tackle on YouTube has a couple of the reels that are in my list, and thats helpful for seeing how they can come apart/go together, but he is spraying with WD-40, using a cotton swab to clean out the inside, and some new grease.  Is it that simple, or is there a better approach?

Sorry for the long winded first post, but wanted to try and explain where Im coming from.  Would like to try and do it right the first time and learn a little in the process.

Thanks in advance for any input you might have!

[reelynew]

Hi there and welcome,

I found this forum with pretty much the same goal to clean-up some older reels from my younger days and ended-up learning a great deal in a short period of time.  The folks here are very knowledgeable and extremely helpful. 

Have a look at this thread.  I use it for reference on what cleaning agent to use based on the material. 

https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,36091.0.html

From my own perspective, it might be best to start with a light detergent like Dawn dish soap first. You can always walk your way up to a stronger cleaner if need be. 

[foakes]

Welcome aboard!

As you mentioned, these are all inexpensive and not high quality reels with the exception of the Daiwa 130RL, which is a decent reel.

Without pictures, and given the nature of these reels —- 2 things I would consider —-

If it is a sentimental thing —- just spray them down on the outside with WD-40 —- put them on a shelf, and call it a day.

If you want to put them into service —- just do what Dennis at 2nd Chance is recommending.  Buy some SuperLube grease, some synthetic oil, use Q-tips and toothbrushes with a mild solvent on the gears, clean them up the best you can, and put them into service.  Keep any solvents away from the plastic parts —- oil the bails and friction parts, grease the gears.

This would be all that I would do.  If you go any deeper, or discover issues such as weak bail springs, worn out drags, broken plastic parts —- then just one or more of these components (if even available without buying another donor reel) will quickly exceed the value of the reel.

And you may or may not be satisfied with the end result.

Determine which ones you want to fish —- work on those, and shelve the others.

Let us know how you do, and we will be glad to help.

I have always started out kids on basic average quality gear —- then if there is a true interest and passion with some of the kids —- then move up to a little higher quality tackle.

Best, Fred

[Gfish]

Welcome Clutch! Cool name.
WD-40 will work as a solvent, but can emulsify when contacting water, especially saltwater. Some guys here never use it. If you can remove all the WD it would prolly be ok. Reelynew's suggestion of detergent might be best, though.
If you are new to reel disassembly, I've found that taking apart, cleaning and lubbing one system of the reel at a time, then reassembling helps to get it all back together and functioning. For example first the bail system, then maybe the gear-side plate, etc., etc.
You don't necessarily have to use heavy-duty solvents, such as those that will ruin plastic, but keep anything you use off the line.

[Midway Tommy]

The best external cleaner/degreaser that I have ever found that will do a superb job without damaging painted or plastic surfaces is Original White Goop (with no pumice) and then a warm water Dawn scrub with a toothbrush. Goop removes the old oil & grease and Dawn cleans up any dirt the Goop might have missed. Personally, I would never use WD40, but others do and think it is fine. I hate WD40. SuperLube grease and a synthetic oil are the way to go lubrication wise, as Fred indicated.

[JasonGotaProblem]

Greg is right about doing it in parts. I'm the king of "where did that shim come from" as I reassemble sometimes a few days later. If I do it by region i can limit the ways i can fail. Unless you want that nice pic of everything disassembled cleaned and laid out in a grid. Those are cool but the fish never see them so I generally don't bother.

On a spinner, the gearbox is one region. The AR assembly is a separate region sometimes depending on the reel design. The spool/drag assembly is another. The rotor/bail mechanism/line roller is another region. I don't mess with one til the other is reassembled.

Wd40 is just fine. But clean out with alcohol after. If you have painted surfaces... don't clean with alcohol. Taken further if you have painted surfaces... don't use wd40.

Charcoal lighter fluid is IMO the best for everything but silicone based grease. It cuts almost everything, has never in my (limited) experience messed up paint, and eventually evaporates away if you don't get it all.

[happyhooker]

Greetings, Clutch, from Minnesota.

You may get bit deep by the reel repair bug after you try the first one, especially if you go out of your way to do that 1st one right.  Get a reel schematic (parts diagram) for any reel you want to work on, if it is available (online, including many on this AT site.)  Don't worry that any reel you work on may just be a cheapie.  They are all worth a look when you are starting out, and if somehow you mess something up (probably unlikely), you ain't out much.  From inexpensive reels to more valuable ones, you'll find that they are way more the same than different.  All reels can be a learning experience.  I am familiar with Dennis on 2d Chance Tackle, and, while I might do some things different than he does, you could have way worse tutors, and his enthusiasm is contagious.  I applaud your getting some reels ready for the "kids".  Tommy offers a good, inexpensive way to clean the exterior of your reels; I also recommend some of those knobby wipes that come in a canister with a little harmless grease removing cleaner on them; good for a wipe-down of exterior and internals and your just throw everything away when done.

Frank

[Clutch]

Hi there and welcome,

I found this forum with pretty much the same goal to clean-up some older reels from my younger days and ended-up learning a great deal in a short period of time.  The folks here are very knowledgeable and extremely helpful. 

Have a look at this thread.  I use it for reference on what cleaning agent to use based on the material. 

https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,36091.0.html

From my own perspective, it might be best to start with a light detergent like Dawn dish soap first. You can always walk your way up to a stronger cleaner if need be. 

Thanks very much!  I looked briefly at that thread, and will give it another look when I have some more time.  I own a small HF ultrasonic now, mostly for use on small engine carburetors, so Im familiar with some of the tips there.  I actually have used lantern fuel as my solvent for most of them so that if any remains in the small passages its not a problem to burn in an engine.  Probably a little much for reels, but its something I have handy. 

Ill start out with the Dawn and will move up from there. 

Welcome aboard!

As you mentioned, these are all inexpensive and not high quality reels with the exception of the Daiwa 130RL, which is a decent reel.

Without pictures, and given the nature of these reels —- 2 things I would consider —-

If it is a sentimental thing —- just spray them down on the outside with WD-40 —- put them on a shelf, and call it a day.

If you want to put them into service —- just do what Dennis at 2nd Chance is recommending.  Buy some SuperLube grease, some synthetic oil, use Q-tips and toothbrushes with a mild solvent on the gears, clean them up the best you can, and put them into service.  Keep any solvents away from the plastic parts —- oil the bails and friction parts, grease the gears.

This would be all that I would do.  If you go any deeper, or discover issues such as weak bail springs, worn out drags, broken plastic parts —- then just one or more of these components (if even available without buying another donor reel) will quickly exceed the value of the reel.

And you may or may not be satisfied with the end result.

Determine which ones you want to fish —- work on those, and shelve the others.

Let us know how you do, and we will be glad to help.

I have always started out kids on basic average quality gear —- then if there is a true interest and passion with some of the kids —- then move up to a little higher quality tackle.

Best, Fred

Thanks very much for the detailed response here.  Ill have to get some photos at some point once I get started on digging in.  I have gathered that most of the reels are cheapies, so I also thought thats probably a good place to start, since if I mess something up, Im not really out anything. 

For now my goal is just to clean them up, evaluate them for any issues that would prevent them from being reliable, and get them lubricated so they can be swapped in when/if needed. 

Welcome Clutch! Cool name.
WD-40 will work as a solvent, but can emulsify when contacting water, especially saltwater. Some guys here never use it. If you can remove all the WD it would prolly be ok. Reelynew's suggestion of detergent might be best, though.
If you are new to reel disassembly, I've found that taking apart, cleaning and lubbing one system of the reel at a time, then reassembling helps to get it all back together and functioning. For example first the bail system, then maybe the gear-side plate, etc., etc.
You don't necessarily have to use heavy-duty solvents, such as those that will ruin plastic, but keep anything you use off the line.

Clutch is a name from some of the other forums I am on, mostly for automotive related things.  I am not as tough as a name like that might make it sound

I was thinking I would start working on one of them at a time just to keep the bits and pieces in the same bins.  I haven't really figured out how the bails are supposed to work, so am a little scared to do more than just get some oil on the pivot points and the bearing, but if there are other tips, I'm open to them for sure.  I did strip the old mono that was on any of these reels off already, since it had been on there for at least 15 years, maybe longer...

The best external cleaner/degreaser that I have ever found that will do a superb job without damaging painted or plastic surfaces is Original White Goop (with no pumice) and then a warm water Dawn scrub with a toothbrush. Goop removes the old oil & grease and Dawn cleans up any dirt the Goop might have missed. Personally, I would never use WD40, but others do and think it is fine. I hate WD40. SuperLube grease and a synthetic oil are the way to go lubrication wise, as Fred indicated.

I love me some Goop!  I never think to use it on anything but my hands, but thats a good idea.  Ill give that a shot if I have any of it left kicking around.  Thanks for that.

Greg is right about doing it in parts. I'm the king of "where did that shim come from" as I reassemble sometimes a few days later. If I do it by region i can limit the ways i can fail. Unless you want that nice pic of everything disassembled cleaned and laid out in a grid. Those are cool but the fish never see them so I generally don't bother.

On a spinner, the gearbox is one region. The AR assembly is a separate region sometimes depending on the reel design. The spool/drag assembly is another. The rotor/bail mechanism/line roller is another region. I don't mess with one til the other is reassembled.

Wd40 is just fine. But clean out with alcohol after. If you have painted surfaces... don't clean with alcohol. Taken further if you have painted surfaces... don't use wd40.

Charcoal lighter fluid is IMO the best for everything but silicone based grease. It cuts almost everything, has never in my (limited) experience messed up paint, and eventually evaporates away if you don't get it all.

I have a bottle of lighter fluid kicking around in the garage, and some of the white lantern fuel, so there are a couple of options of things in that same family.... 


Thank you all for the tips and information on places to start.  Im sure as I get going Ill have some more questions.  Ill try to take some pictures and show some progress as I go. 

[Clutch]

Greetings, Clutch, from Minnesota.

You may get bit deep by the reel repair bug after you try the first one, especially if you go out of your way to do that 1st one right.  Get a reel schematic (parts diagram) for any reel you want to work on, if it is available (online, including many on this AT site.)  Don't worry that any reel you work on may just be a cheapie.  They are all worth a look when you are starting out, and if somehow you mess something up (probably unlikely), you ain't out much.  From inexpensive reels to more valuable ones, you'll find that they are way more the same than different.  All reels can be a learning experience.  I am familiar with Dennis on 2d Chance Tackle, and, while I might do some things different than he does, you could have way worse tutors, and his enthusiasm is contagious.  I applaud your getting some reels ready for the "kids".  Tommy offers a good, inexpensive way to clean the exterior of your reels; I also recommend some of those knobby wipes that come in a canister with a little harmless grease removing cleaner on them; good for a wipe-down of exterior and internals and your just throw everything away when done.

Frank

Thank you for the input Frank!  Im mildly scared this will become one of those things that I start hunting for at flea markets and tag sales to have another "just in case".  For now its pretty easy to justify since these were freebies to me, and the kids are enjoying practicing their casting in the back yard with some test weights on the lines.

I think I have some of those wipes kicking around also, might be a good place to start before the detailed scrubbing begins with some of the other methods mentioned here.  All good stuff to try.  I mostly just want to make sure Im not going to make something worse than when I started.... 

[Squidder Bidder]

I think it was Second Chance Tackle's channel that gave me the impetus to break the first reel down to parts.

One advantage you have with modern technology is that you can take photographs as you disassemble a reel which serve as a reference when reassembling at a later time.

[Gfish]

Greetings, Clutch, from Minnesota.

You may get bit deep by the reel repair bug after you try the first one, especially if you go out of your way to do that 1st one right.  Get a reel schematic (parts diagram) for any reel you want to work on, if it is available (online, including many on this AT site.)  Don't worry that any reel you work on may just be a cheapie.  They are all worth a look when you are starting out, and if somehow you mess something up (probably unlikely), you ain't out much.  From inexpensive reels to more valuable ones, you'll find that they are way more the same than different.  All reels can be a learning experience.  I am familiar with Dennis on 2d Chance Tackle, and, while I might do some things different than he does, you could have way worse tutors, and his enthusiasm is contagious.  I applaud your getting some reels ready for the "kids".  Tommy offers a good, inexpensive way to clean the exterior of your reels; I also recommend some of those knobby wipes that come in a canister with a little harmless grease removing cleaner on them; good for a wipe-down of exterior and internals and your just throw everything away when done.

Frank

Thank you for the input Frank!  Im mildly scared this will become one of those things that I start hunting for at flea markets and tag sales to have another "just in case".  For now its pretty easy to justify since these were freebies to me, and the kids are enjoying practicing their casting in the back yard with some test weights on the lines.

I think I have some of those wipes kicking around also, might be a good place to start before the detailed scrubbing begins with some of the other methods mentioned here.  All good stuff to try.  I mostly just want to make sure Im not going to make something worse than when I started.... 

It's FUN! Not scary. Also it's a relatively inexpensive hobby. Just think of all those reels out there sitting idle and nonfunctional that need maintenance and repairs. I only wish my vehicles were inexpensive and easy to repair, or hot rod.

[Clutch]

It's FUN! Not scary. Also it's a relatively inexpensive hobby. Just think of all those reels out there sitting idle and nonfunctional that need maintenance and repairs. I only wish my vehicles were inexpensive and easy to repair, or hot rod.

Well, we will see what happens in a few months once I figure out what to do, and then if its turned into a fun and relaxing hobby, or one of those "maybe you need to stop buying things" hobbies...

[Clutch]

Well, thanks to the ideas here, I cracked into one of the Broncos tonight.  Figured it was worth the least, and also it's not a sentimental one to me at all.  I can see why these are considered cheap reels.  Not a single bearing, just a bronze bushing or plastic bushings.  When you get some wear, it's just going to get worse. 

But, I got it all apart, all cleaned up, and it's well greased now.  Probably too much, but lesson learned there.  Originally over tightened the side plate and that was causing some troubles, but backed off a quarter turn on the screws and all is well.

One question (of many I'm sure).  Here is a photo of the drag stack.  One small washer that'saybe fiber?  Then the plastic/Teflon washers are in the stack with metal ones.  At some point there was some rusting and that had bled through to the plastic.  Do you do anything to any of these washers?  Clean with solvent?  Oil?  Grease?  Ignore? 

[Midway Tommy]

A couple of comments for you.
1. Bronze bushings are not a bad, or cheap, thing. There are times when a bronze bushing (bearing), aka oilite, out performs, and may be better than, a ball bearing. Some people prefer them over ball bearings in certain instances.
2. The dark colorization on the Teflon drag washers is more than likely old grease stains, unless you found some metal that has rusted. Old grease will do that to white Teflons, nylons & plastics. You should be able to remove some of it with solvents, but it's near impossible to remove it completely. As long as the surfaces are clean the drag washers should work just fine.

[Clutch]

A couple of comments for you.
1. Bronze bushings are not a bad, or cheap, thing. There are times when a bronze bushing (bearing), aka oilite, out performs, and may be better than, a ball bearing. Some people prefer them over ball bearings in certain instances.
2. The dark colorization on the Teflon drag washers is more than likely old grease stains, unless you found some metal that has rusted. Old grease will do that to white Teflons, nylons & plastics. You should be able to remove some of it with solvents, but it's near impossible to remove it completely. As long as the surfaces are clean the drag washers should work just fine.

Thanks for the response Tom. 

Good to know about bronze bushings.  In this reel there is just one, located under the spool.  Unfortunately there is not another for the other end of the pinion gear, which is just seated in plastic. 

I did find some corrosion on the metal drag washers when I took the stack apart.  I cleaned it off the best I could and reassembled things. 

Appreciate the response!