American Classic IV (Cardinal 4 Replica)

[Midway Tommy]

I decided to put this tutorial in the Zebco/ABU Cardinal section because the American Classic IV is actually a clone of the renowned ABU/Zebco Cardinal 44/4 with some upgraded parts & materials. Few Cardinal reel fans even know that this reel was ever even produced. I currently have five of these great reels and twelve extra spools. One of these examples is mounted on a St. Croix Legend Elite rod that I built and is my main fishing outfit. I love fishing with this combination, it has served me well! My son also has one of these that he fishes.

In 1996, Mark Farber, owner of American Classic Sales, LLC of Salt Lake City, Utah introduced a new spinning reel based on an old concept, it was called the Sportech Classic IV. The original specifications indicated the reel was powder coated (black), had a machine-cut stainless steel pinion gear, brass main gear, stainless steel bail springs, stainless steel parts and a "machined Aluminum Spool." The original Sportech reel came with a zippered/velcro cordura pouch with a leather nametag that was stitched on the front of the pouch.  In 1997 American Classic Sales decided to rename this same reel. The new name would become the American Classic IV. Mr. Farber has indicated that the name was changed to match the company name and also to coincide with their existing fly rod and fly reel sales program. The new reels came with a cloth drawstring bag of different colors, first green, and later blue, with pictures of fish and fishing items imprinted on them. The reels came in two versions, a selectable anti-reverse model with a sliding button and a non-selectable/locked anti-reverse that is infinite in nature. The selectable anti-reverse does not have an infinite anti-reverse, it has the standard dawg type click when activated. The retail sales price for either model was $169.95 and $22.95 for an aluminum spare spool, which was, in fact, interchangeable with all non-skirted ABU & Zebco Cardinal 44/4s. The spools have Classic IV and line size and yardage inscribed on the face. At that time there was no limit on the number of spare spools one could order. Once ABU and Zebco Cardinal 44/4 owners found out that these aluminum spools would fit their Cardinal 4s they started purchasing replacement spools from American Classic Sales. When the company realized this was happening proof of purchase of a Classic IV was required to obtain additional spools. This policy later evolved into a limit of two spare spools with the purchase of a new reel. It has been said that both the Sportech and American Classic models were available with the selectable or fixed/locked anti-reverse option, but to this date I have never seen a version of the Sportech model with the locked anti-reverse. The bottom of the foot is marked with "product of the USA", and each reel is embossed with what appears to be, since all are different, a serial number. The Sportech version starts with 96-..... and the American version starts with 97-..... In late 2007 or early 2008 the company decided to discontinue sales of the reel. It has been believed that throughout their 11 or 12 years of sales that American Classic Sales was limited, through a prior contractual agreement, to manufacture not more than 50 reels per year. This arrangement or agreement has never actually been substantiated or verified. Interestingly, it is a known fact that these are one of the few spinning reels of this era that instantly became collectible! They seldom show up on eBay, but when they do they generally bring between $250.00 & $400.00, and the spools will bring upwards of $80.00.


This particular reel has been fished for about 10 or 12 years on original lubrication so I decided it was time to do a complete service. I figured while I was at it that I would document the process for those that might be interested. Basically, the process is the same as that of the ABU or Zebco Cardinal 4. Disassembly is generally just the opposite of reassembly.

At disassembly all the internal parts were wiped off and then soaked in a jar with lacquer thinner for a couple of days, except the bearing. The bearing was in like new condition so it soaked for about 15 minutes and then removed. Both sides of the bearing were lubed with synthetic oil so that it could soak into the ball and race area. I removed the dust shield on one side, removed the old grease and packed it with Super Lube, added a little more synthetic oil and reinstalled the dust shield. The plastics and painted body parts were cleaned with Original White Goop (NO PUMICE), then washed in warm water & Dawn and thoroughly dried.

Here are the parts, quite a few of them, cleaned, dried and ready for reassembly. As you can see, they're pretty much the same as the Cardinal 4.



My first step, before my fingers get all greasy, is to assemble the rotor and bail mechanism. The bail springs are wound opposite and the installation process is the same as the Cardinal 4. They must be installed on the correct side or they will be bent, sprung and difficult, if not impossible, to re-bend or adjust. I use ArmorAll for lubricating bail arms and springs because it stays slick and does not collect dirt or get all gummed up. It does require occasional relubrication which is easily squirted into the bail spring notch. The bail plate screw differs from the Cardinal 4 with a thicker flange and is similar to that of the Cardinal 3 bail plate screw.



Here the bail springs are already installed and the bail has been aligned. Notice that the line roller is silicon carbide and also has a brass bushing rather than Teflon. After the line roller is installed I install the bail trip lever and spring. The trip lever is powder coated black. I add a dab of grease to the screw hole threads for easier removal.



Installing the bail trip lever and spring is the same process as that of the Cardinal 3 or 4. Once installed I set the rotor aside to install later.



It's now time to move to the body.

First, I install the anti-reverse button using the e-clip. The anti-reverse button on the Classic IV is SS metal. It also has a pliable plastic gasket on the back side to help keep dust, dirt and water out of the body and drive train. I add a little grease to the screw hole & dawg and install the anti-reverse hook (lever) & spring. I use synthetic oil to lube the screw/lever/spring connection.



Now we're ready to install the pinion/worm gear and bearing. First I install the o-ring on the pinion gear in the groove just behind the linear anti-reverse teeth. The o-ring reduces anti-reverse click noise. Grease the rear pinion bushing and the pinion/worm gear inside and out and slide it into place through the front of the body. Next grease the bearing cavity and bearing and slide it into place. Secure the bearing with the split ring retainer.



Next I install the rotor cup using the locking washer and hex nut. First, though, I grease the front edge of the housing and bail trip stud.



Next I'll assemble the drag stack & fulcrum mechanism. These also came with fiber drag discs, but they also added a Teflon washer right behind the click gear. The washers are lying in the order they go together, from the right to left: click washer/gear, Teflon washer, SS keyed washer, carbon fiber washer, SS keyed washer, carbon fiber washer, SS keyed washer, SS disc spring washer, SS spring washer. All washers install on the long side of the click washer. The point of the keyed washers rest against the bar on side of the body. I lightly grease and oil between all washers.



Next I turn the brake screw into the brake cashing all the way, grease the flange and slip it into the hole. Now install the brake arm. Don't install the insert support yet. Make sure all the points on the keyed SS washers line up with each other and the flat side of the rear spring washer faces down toward the body. Push the brake arm back as far as possible and install the drag stack in one piece with the short end into the worm gear/pinion bushing making sure all three SS washer points are against bar on the body. Push the top of the brake arm forward and install the insert support. Make sure there is sufficient grease in all locations. Tighten the brake cashing just enough so there is slight pressure on the drag stack keeping all washers in their correct position. One thing to note on the Classic IV drag configuration is that the addition of the Teflon washer requires the rear keyed SS washer point to be bent forward slightly so that it rests against the bar on the body.



Now that the drag stack is in place it's time to install the main gear, including the larger spring washer between the gear and housing. Notice that the Classic IV has a ball bearing rather than an oilite bushing. There is also an oilite bushing in the outer portion of the main gear shaft housing. I lube the main gear and shaft with Super Lube grease and add a little synthetic oil.



Now it's time to install the main shaft and oscillation arm connecting link. Grease, lube and install the main shaft. Now is a good time to spin the main shaft while making sure the drag stack is aligned and functioning correctly. Also, don't forget to install the spring washer between the main gear and connecting link (oscillation arm), and the spring washer at the rear of the main shaft in front of the connecting link attachment holder. Grease, lube and install the connecting link (oscillation arm) onto the main gear and main shaft using e-clips at both locations. Check and lube/oil any areas or connections that may have been omitted and make sure there is adequate grease on the main and pinion gear teeth. I also like to add a drop or two of oil to the main shaft in the pinion gear tube and on both ends of the connecting link at the e-clip studs.



It's time to install the brake knob & retention spring, side-plate, handle dust cover & felt washer, crank handle and spool. The brake knob tension spring attaches with a small screw just like the tan & black ABU Cardinal 3 & 4. The crank handle and screws are all stainless steel. The brake knob screw is reverse thread, so be aware of that issue. A quick test makes sure everything everything is working properly.



All done and the reels is as smooth as butter and works perfectly. I didn't think there could be an improvement to the ABU or Zebco Cardinal 4s or 44s, but these American Classic IVs are an amazing piece of fishing equipment that will surely out live me!





Here are 4 of my 5 together. From the left Sportech Classic IV Selectable A/R, American Classic IV Selectable A/R, American Classic IV Non-Selectable Locked A/R , and American Classic IV Selectable A/R



Here is a photo of 3 of the above 4 and the outfit I fish with, their pouches and a few of the spare spools. Great, Great reels!

[happyhooker]

These reels would certainly tick a lot of boxes for those interested in top quality older spinning reels.  Gear train looks impeccable and the AR on this depicted reel looks like top notch parts and is mounted ahead of the gear train. Aluminum spool--wow.  Two things (if they were mentioned in the write-up, I missed them): 1) are the bail arms metal?; 2) looks like left hand crank only (?).

The sharp angles and severe styling may not appeal to everyone, but, hey, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Thanks, Tommy, for a nice look at a most interesting reel.

Frank

[Midway Tommy]

They came in left hand crank only. The bail arm & bail plate are plastic just like the Cardinals, no issues there, at least none that I have seen or heard of.

[foakes]

Great history and thanks for showing us, Tom —-

I recall when those were introduced.

Too bad they are no longer available.

Is there some company in Japan also making replicas of these?

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

Is there some company in Japan also making replicas of these?

Best, Fred

Yeah, they're listed as Abu Garcia Sweeden but only in the Cardinal 3 version as far as I've ever seen. Seems like a new reproduction C3 version comes out just about every year. Japan Tackle is where I've seen them advertised.

[jgp12000]

I wish I could have bought some of them back then. You can tell you take care of them !

[steelfish]

wow 12 years using it and it looks like new, awesome.

thanks for the info and excellent write up Tommy

Im not much into using vintage reels but this zebco cardinal reels (well the same design) always attracted me some day I will get one just for the fun if trying it on a mad triggerfish with light line

by chance do you have a penn 712z so, you can compare the size of this reel (AC IV) or a cardinal 4 at the side of the penn reel

[Midway Tommy]

wow 12 years using it and it looks like new, awesome.

thanks for the info and excellent write up Tommy

Im not much into using vintage reels but this zebco cardinal reels (well the same design) always attracted me some day I will get one just for the fun if trying it on a mad triggerfish with light line

by chance do you have a penn 712z so, you can compare the size of this reel (AC IV) or a cardinal 4 at the side of the penn reel

Not a Z but I do have a green 712. I'll set them side by side & take a pic in the next day or two for you, Alex. 

Add: Here you go Alex. They're all pretty similar in size except the Penn 712 has a lot bigger rotor which makes it heavier and not quite as well balanced. 

Left to right: Very first (1969) version  of the Zebco Cardinal 4, Penn 712, American Classic IV.

[steelfish]

thanks Tommy, I can see what you saying about the bigger rotor

so, the size of the rotor and total weight of the 712 is more directly compared to a Cardinal 6?

I recall you said the cardinal 6 was the less "favorite" from the whole set of Cardinals as the 3, 4, 6 and 7?
I can understand 3 and 4 being as small reels but what makes more appealing the size C7 vs the C6?

[Midway Tommy]

I can understand 3 and 4 being as small reels but what makes more appealing the size C7 vs the C6?

The C6 is a little on the light side for salt water. That means line capacity. The C6 & C7 are exactly the same reel except for the rotor, bail, bail stopper and spool. All other parts are interchangeable. Salt water guys seem to prefer the bigger line capacity. I don't do salt water so, personally, I prefer the C6 over the C7, but that's just me.

[steelfish]

thanks Tommy for the info

[jgp12000]

Tom,
I see an opportunity for a history lesson here. In your photo the Cardinal 4 also has a badge "Zebco by ABU"
In reference to my attached photos in what years were these different versions of the Cardinal 4 produced?

JP

[Midway Tommy]

Tom,
I see an opportunity for a history lesson here. In your photo the Cardinal 4 also has a badge "Zebco by ABU"
In reference to my attached photos in what years were these different versions of the Cardinal 4 produced?

JP

The six digit number on the bottom of the foot will tell you the year and month the reel was made.

First reel is 1970-74; second reel 1974-77; third reel is 1978-83.

Starting in 1965 ABU began using a six digit numbering system on the bottom of the foot. In the beginning the first two digits indicated the month and the second two digits indicated the year but they used 0 rather than a 6 for the first year number. In mid 1971 they changed the numbering system so that the first two digits represented the year and the second two digits indicated the month. The last two digits have always indicated a batch, i.e. slight variation during production. They also say "Product of Sweden"

The earliest Cardinal 4s have "Abu-Svangsta-Sweden" and the six digit # on the bottom of the foot. If there are no numbers or lettering on the bottom of the foot then the body was a replacement part.

The very first Zebco Cardinal, 6s, 7s & then 4s, had a linear metal medallion at the bottom of the sideplate that indicated the model, and they also had a sticker in the upper right corner that read Zebco by ABU. Garcia had declined distributing the Cardinal reel line because the were distributing Mitchells (big mistake!) so ABU went to Zebco. Garcia had been distributing the Ambassadeur casting reel line since 1956 so the Zebco/Abu reference really pi $$ ed Garcia off & they forced ABU to ask Zebco to remove the ABU reference. At first, 69 & 70, Zebco just removed ABU from the sticker, then in 1970 they eliminated the sticker altogether and  went to the silver medallion.

So, 020900 means Feb 1969 first batch. 720903 means Sept 1972 third batch. In all actuality, though, the 03 probably really means the fourth group since 00 would have been the first batch.

Hope that helps for identification purposes. One always has to remember, though, that bodies, sideplates,  rotors, handles & spools have been intermingled & traded over the years.  There are an awful lot of reels out there that are no longer in their original state. 😕

[jgp12000]

   Thank you Sir !

[jgp12000]

One mo question,the emblem looks like a crest, is it an ABU family relation or just Sweden?