Last Piece of My Powder-Coating Puzzle

[oc1]

I think you'll want the light inside so you do not get glare from the shield.  Those shields are replaceable because they become frosted/opaque fairly quickly. 

I have a 120v air fryer that does 400F circulated air and the pan is big enough to accommodate all but the largest frames.  But,, it would be easier to hang stuff in a full-size convection oven.

[JasonGotaProblem]

Dave that's a brilliant idea about the probe/thermostat. I have a friend who bakes cheesecakes commercially and we've spent HOURS talking about oven temp cycling and how to dial it in better.

[oldmanjoe]

  Tidbit information . I had the oven temperature change 150 degrees when my wife made bread . 
  I was told that i was going to buy a new oven .    I checked to see if I could change the thermostat first , there was two different styles for that oven .  So i opened it to check what style it was .

  I noticed that the temperature probe wire was bunched up against the cabinet side , so I pulled it away from the steel side , thinking it was a heatsink .  That solved the problem .  Another thing I found was that when you pull the knob off , there was a way to calibrate the knob to read the temperature scale to read accurately.   

[jurelometer]

Next question for Tom, Dave, Joe, or any other experts —-

What media is the best for removing old paint from reel bodies, rotors, plates, and other parts?

I have a Redline bench top blaster —-

I have garnet.  But would walnut shells, ceramic beads, or something else be better?

Also will be using a cartridge tumbler for smaller parts that won't be painted generally.

Appreciate any advice.

Best, Fred

I have only tried garnet. It is very abrasive, but that usually works well for powder coating.  Powder coat is relatively thick and very good at self-leveling, so you don't need a very smooth surface.  The extra tooth actually helps hold the paint to the part, since the powder melts and flows into all the nooks and crannies.

Surface scratches will show through though.

Blasting with garnet is a fast way to prep the part that will get past scratches, and leave a well prepared surface for coating as long as you don't have any fine details or sharp edges to preserve.  Worked well removing factory paint and chrome on old Penn parts that I tried, but I did not do that many.

But when I  tried to remove cured  powder coat for a second attempt, blasting was a failure on my brass and aluminum parts.  The powder was just too tough.  There are specific chemical paint removers (usually with aircraft in the product name) that are supposed to work on powder coat, but nearly all of them are extremely toxic and IMHO, not something that should be messed around with outside a proper industrial setting.

-J

[jurelometer]

Dave that's a brilliant idea about the probe/thermostat. I have a friend who bakes cheesecakes commercially and we've spent HOURS talking about oven temp cycling and how to dial it in better.

PID controllers have a "learning" mode where they fine tune how to ramp up/down the load as it gets closer to the target, so that they don't overshoot it.

You can play with the PID settings to get it super effective, but even right out of the box, the defaults worked pretty well.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proportional%E2%80%93integral%E2%80%93derivative_controller

I think I got my design from something that a beer brewer or liquor  maker posted on the interwebs.  It was well south of USD $100 to build one with a 120v relay, including a couple probes.  I use it for all sorts of projects. 

These are the main parts- not sure if it was the exact model that I used, but it was at least something similar:

https://inkbird.com/products/pid-temperature-controllers-itc-106

-J

[jgp12000]

I know this was addressed before,but what's the go-to source for plugging screw holes.For regular painting  I use donor screws/Superlube & liquid mask.I had a Mitchell 300 powder coated once at an off road shop.It was the guy's 1st reel ,normally he does wheels,Anywho $20 later,it looked pretty good except he missed a few screw holes.Not fun,I had to buy some tiny metric taps to clean the holes for reassembly.

[foakes]

K

I know this was addressed before,but what's the go-to source for plugging screw holes.For regular painting  I use donor screws/Superlube & liquid mask.I had a Mitchell 300 powder coated once at an off road shop.It was the guy's 1st reel ,normally he does wheels,Anywho $20 later,it looked pretty good except he missed a few screw holes.Not fun,I had to buy some tiny metric taps to clean the holes for reassembly.

I use these silicone rubber Hi-Temp tapered plugs.

Reusable, paint just comes right off after use, cheap.

Here is a bunch like I bought at Amazon or eBay —- can't recall.

Anyway, these are a no-brainer, easy & effective.

$25 for probably all you will ever need.

Best, Fred

[scrinch]

Hi Fred. I wired a new 50A circuit for a stove at the cabin a couple of years ago. Not fun dealing with that fat, stiff cable! If your CL oven is a commercial oven+stovetop range (can't tell from the photos), the oven elements likely don't require 50A by themselves. You may be able to remove the stovetop knobs or elements and then use the existing 40A service for an oven-only range. Check the specs for the unit to see what the power draw is for just the oven elements.

[foakes]

That is a very good idea, Rich —-

The stove/oven is nearly new, and the oven has never been used.

Belonged to a young couple doing a full remodel in their older house down in the Tower District.  They bought it, then pretty quickly decided gas was the way to cook instead of electric.

So I picked it up for $75, removed the (4) burner elements, and stuck a piece of 5/8" plywood on top, with a sheet of 1/8" Stainless Steel on the plywood.

Then I looked at the spec label under the oven —- and it showed a 50A requirement.

I'll check out just the oven burner draw specs and actual measurements —-

Thanks!

Best, Fred

[oldmanjoe]

     Now you gave a little more information about it being a 4 burner stove .  That`s the amp eaters , 4 burners going at once !!!    I think all you will use is 15 - 20 amps for the oven element .
     Take a picture of the model number plate , it usually has the elements in kw .
      Open the oven door ,usually the tag is in the upper right hand corner on the frame .

[Dominick]

Love the breadth of knowledge on this site.  Way to go Joe.  Dominick