ADVICE ON A SUITABLE TOOL

[Cor]

I Make jigs from solid pieces of PVC or various scrap plastic.    I once made jig for my circular bench saw to hold them in place while cutting but I am finding that too dangerous to cut small items with that machine.

The problem is the tight angle that needs to be cut, it varies but is around 20° and the plugs are around 16 cm long.

I was thinking of a Mitre saw something like this https://www.toolcraft.co.za/products/festool-kapex-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-ks-60-e-set-1
But that one is a bit expensive $1 400 for the purpose I need it.   It is not high volume work, nor is  extremely accurate cutting required.   It needs to cut 4 or 8 sides at nearly the same angles.  It could even be a hand tool.

Anyone know of something that I could use that's simple to use, and safe.   Without fingers I won't be able to cast a conventional reel well.

Here's a photo of one of the jigs and of past Saturdays catch.   We caught about 40 fish in 2 hours between 8 anglers.   

[quang tran]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ROCKWELL-Blade-Runner-X2-4-in-Carbon-Blade-5-5-Amp-Table-Saw/50226969
I think a jig saw table will do the job ,I'd do more sanding than cutting to get that shape

[ourford]

I've used a scroll saw with a fine blade to cut acrylic.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-1-2-Amp-Corded-16-in-Scroll-Saw-SC165VS/205419917?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D25P-025_009_PORT_POWER-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PortablePower_2023&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D25P-025_009_PORT_POWER-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PortablePower_2023-71700000106432953-58700008273440508-92700079460122386&gclid=0b996adf6b6a1855b2040c890a0df3a1&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=0b996adf6b6a1855b2040c890a0df3a1

[MarkT]

A Festool Kapex is the most expensive miter saw out there. A Dewalt, Makita or Milwaukee would be much cheaper. A belt sander would clean up that jig better than a saw!

[jurelometer]

I'm with you Cornelius.  The trick is getting a fixture to hold the part safely, and the larger/faster/more powerful the tool, the stronger the the fixture has to be.

A couple ideas:

For small stuff in plastic like that, I am partial to using a router with the material screwed onto a pattern.  I like using a flush trim bit  (guide on the bottom) with the pattern underneath the part.  I usually 3D print the patterns and any fixtures needed to hold the part, but reckon that you can do something similar  by hand.

I assume you are making the jig in two halves so that you can through wire them.  I can picture one or two fixtures, depending on the shape.  Secure the material to the pattern or fixture past the ends of
the part, and cut the ends off after shaping.  Or something like that.

A router might ight be overkill though, as these are all straight cuts.

If you are not making that many, cutting plastic with a handsaw is not much work,  and if the fixture holding the part fails, it is not so terrifying.  Something that clamps onto a hand miter saw or even a wholem iterbox contraption made from some scrap wood. 

Power miter saws kinda scare me on small parts.  They are really made for cutting parts off of longer stock, and the wood cutting miter saws run at very high RPMs. In my eyes, it would be tougher to make a safe fixture setup with a power miter saw than a table saw.  But both would require a very secure fixture.

Sometimes the best tool for the job is not a power tool.  But the reccomendation for a scroll saw with the right blade doesn't sound too bad either.

-J

[jtwill98]

I sometimes borrow my wife's came saw for small items, more control. 

A came saw is used by stained glass shops to cut "Came" the aluminum framing around the stained glass.   

My wife's came saw is a miniature chop saw is similar to this one: https://www.ameriglasco.com/Stained-Glass-Grinders-Diamond-Saws/Stained-Glass-Came-Saw.shtml

However, when I went looking for a picture, I saw this one:  https://www.swartglass.com/Jarmac-Came-Saw_p_16446.html

It looks like a miniature table saw and might fit your purpose.

[oldmanjoe]

I Make jigs from solid pieces of PVC or various scrap plastic.    I once made jig for my circular bench saw to hold them in place while cutting but I am finding that too dangerous to cut small items with that machine.

The problem is the tight angle that needs to be cut, it varies but is around 20° and the plugs are around 16 cm long.

I was thinking of a Mitre saw something like this https://www.toolcraft.co.za/products/festool-kapex-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-ks-60-e-set-1
But that one is a bit expensive $1 400 for the purpose I need it.   It is not high volume work, nor is  extremely accurate cutting required.   It needs to cut 4 or 8 sides at nearly the same angles.  It could even be a hand tool.

Anyone know of something that I could use that's simple to use, and safe.   Without fingers I won't be able to cast a conventional reel well.

Here's a photo of one of the jigs and of past Saturdays catch.   We caught about 40 fish in 2 hours between 8 anglers.   

When you say circular bench saw , is that a table saw or a miter saw ?  A picture will help , also one of the jig you are using now .   I assume you rip stock to width first ,than make the 20 degree cuts after.
      Screw eyes on both ends , or do you through hole and wire in .   Or is it two halves glued together  with a kerf cut for the wire .    I would use a jig with a swing arm to make the cuts with a hold down . The picture of the jig you have looks 4 sided .  If you want to do 8 sides you will have to make another swingarm that has two angles to support the stock , so you can safely cut it .
    Are the jigs that you make all the same length ?

[JasonGotaProblem]

I sometimes borrow my wife's came saw for small items, more control. 

A came saw is used by stained glass shops to cut "Came" the aluminum framing around the stained glass.   

My wife's came saw is a miniature chop saw is similar to this one: https://www.ameriglasco.com/Stained-Glass-Grinders-Diamond-Saws/Stained-Glass-Came-Saw.shtml

However, when I went looking for a picture, I saw this one:  https://www.swartglass.com/Jarmac-Came-Saw_p_16446.html

It looks like a miniature table saw and might fit your purpose.

My God that top one looks so awesome if it'll cut aluminum and brass. I don't see a price on that one though. But the bottom one is reasonable

[Cor]

I sometimes borrow my wife's came saw for small items, more control. 

A came saw is used by stained glass shops to cut "Came" the aluminum framing around the stained glass.   

My wife's came saw is a miniature chop saw is similar to this one: https://www.ameriglasco.com/Stained-Glass-Grinders-Diamond-Saws/Stained-Glass-Came-Saw.shtml

However, when I went looking for a picture, I saw this one:  https://www.swartglass.com/Jarmac-Came-Saw_p_16446.html

It looks like a miniature table saw and might fit your purpose.

My God that top one looks so awesome if it'll cut aluminum and brass. I don't see a price on that one though. But the bottom one is reasonable

Thanks for all the comments, I most certainly see some interesting ideas.    I have some IT issues to work on today, and Wife chores.    I like  jurelometer's Idea of a simple hand tool, I did look at that but none that I saw could make the tight angles I need.   I only make a few of those jigs, maybe one or two per month, if "you don't fish to much you don't loose to much"   Hand tool is easy and safe.

Will give feedback later.

[Cor]

How I hate it when I need to use a VPN to look at a US website with simple machine tools!

[oc1]

I would use either the scroll saw or a bench-top band saw for that.  Both will let you make the cuts by hand without the danger of a chop saw or table saw.  Most small band saws also have a miter push block and a rip fence.

I also drill a hole in the blank for a thru-wire before shaping the contours.

[jtwill98]

My wife's came saw is a miniature chop saw is similar to this one: https://www.ameriglasco.com/Stained-Glass-Grinders-Diamond-Saws/Stained-Glass-Came-Saw.shtml

However, when I went looking for a picture, I saw this one:  https://www.swartglass.com/Jarmac-Came-Saw_p_16446.html

It looks like a miniature table saw and might fit your purpose.

My God that top one looks so awesome if it'll cut aluminum and brass. I don't see a price on that one though. But the bottom one is reasonable

They are way more expensive than when my wife bought hers in the 90s. If you search, the price varies because it is sold as a specialty item.  I saw one on the auction site for $100.

They will cut aluminum and zinc came. I'm not sure of brass, hollow tubing would work, solid rod, maybe if you went slow.  The machine's motor is maybe 1/16-1/8hp -- not real powerful.

I used it to cut 1.25" aluminum framing material for solar screens that were installed on the west facing windows of my house.

[Midway Tommy]

I despise electric mitre saws and will only use one if there are no other options. Grew up using tables saws and they are my go-to for wood working, but I'm with Steve on this one, a scroll saw or band saw, preferably a band saw, especially if you want to keep your fingers. A word of caution my dad gave me early on that has always stuck with me, "those fingers, they don't grow back"! After sixty years of wood working I still have all ten, BTW.    I prefer the band saw because it has a continuous downward, toward the table, motion rather than the up and down motion of the scroll saw, but but both should work just fine for what you're trying to accomplish.

[Cor]

I Make jigs from solid pieces of PVC or various scrap plastic.    I once made jig for my circular bench saw to hold them in place while cutting but I am finding that too dangerous to cut small items with that machine.

The problem is the tight angle that needs to be cut, it varies but is around 20° and the plugs are around 16 cm long.

I was thinking of a Mitre saw something like this https://www.toolcraft.co.za/products/festool-kapex-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-ks-60-e-set-1
But that one is a bit expensive $1 400 for the purpose I need it.  It is not high volume work, nor is  extremely accurate cutting required.  It needs to cut 4 or 8 sides at nearly the same angles.  It could even be a hand tool.

Anyone know of something that I could use that's simple to use, and safe.  Without fingers I won't be able to cast a conventional reel well.

Here's a photo of one of the jigs and of past Saturdays catch.  We caught about 40 fish in 2 hours between 8 anglers.   

When you say circular bench saw , is that a table saw or a miter saw ? It's a table saw, a cheapish Ryobi, which is not an accurate tool These type machines can not cut the small angles.
 A picture will help , also one of the jig you are using now .  I assume you rip stock to width first ,than make the 20 degree cuts after. Yes
      Screw eyes on both ends , or do you through hole and wire in .  Or is it two halves glued together  with a kerf cut for the wire .    I would use a jig with a swing arm to make the cuts with a hold down . The picture of the jig you have looks 4 sided .  If you want to do 8 sides you will have to make another swingarm that has two angles to support the stock , so you can safely cut it .
    Are the jigs that you make all the same length ? No, varies a bit.    Drill lengthways hole for wire and to fill rear portion with lead.

This does not look as intended, but you get the gist of it I think

[Cor]

I despise electric mitre saws and will only use one if there are no other options. Grew up using tables saws and they are my go-to for wood working, but I'm with Steve on this one, a scroll saw or band saw, preferably a band saw, especially if you want to keep your fingers. A word of caution my dad gave me early on that has always stuck with me, "those fingers, they don't grow back"! After sixty years of wood working I still have all ten, BTW.    I prefer the band saw because it has a continuous downward, toward the table, motion rather than the up and down motion of the scroll saw, but but both should work just fine for what you're trying to accomplish.

My Dad was extremely good with wood, I clearly remember some of the projects he made.   One was a Hartley 18 ft New Vivid skiboat from double layer Marine Ply, probably took him about 3 years to complete.   I often had to come to help with something and got many very important safety lessons.

I agree that a Circular saw is not the right tool for what I am doing and a band saw of sorts is probably the answer.   I will probably need to go and look at a physical shop to see what can or can't be done.