Shellaced grease removal

[MolBasser]

Hi all,

I'm going to be building my Cortez Conversion squidder next week, and i had a couple of newbie questions that I figured I put here for your amusement and my education.

1. I want all the old parts (the like 5 of them) to be like new, so I want to remove the shellaced oil from the metal.  Specifically the bridge and yoke.
     A) what is the best solvent for this purpose?
     B) what sort of abrasive will assist without scratching the chromed brass/ brass and also not be destroyed by the solvent.

2.  A light coating of ALL interior surfaces of the anodized aluminum and other metal is recommended with grease, correct?  I'm using Penn reel grease as my high viscosity lubricant, and would be using this as the protectant.

3.  How fast does galvonic corrosion occur, and what do I watch for/do if I see it form between the stainless and aluminum?

4.  I got an old power handle that has some pitting in the chromed brass, how best to clean that metal and protect it from further corrosion.

Cheers!

[Swami805]

I use carburetor cleaner to clean metal parts but many different solvents will work. I use simichrome to polish metal

[Keta]

3.  How fast does galvonic corrosion occur, and what do I watch for/do if I see it form between the stainless and aluminum?

It depends on where the dissimilar metals are on the nobility scale, the further apart the faster.  Grease is your friend.

[MolBasser]

Here is an example of what I have done so far.

Too much grease?  The body has the blue penn grease and inside the threads of the stainless alan bolts and under the clicker spring has red quantum reel grease.  When I join the body and the plates, there will be red quantum reel grease between the parts.  (I'd just use the blue, but..... the reel is red and my brain says red is better).

[Brewcrafter]

Lee speaks wisdom.  Now with your photo, that is definitely more grease than I would use, BUT you certainly are not hurting anything - just wasting grease.  A thin layer is all it takes unless your reel is going to spend an entire season in the rod rack getting pummeled and soaked with waves coming over the side every day.  I would say pay particular attention to the threads/holes of fasteners, but again, be careful - a little goes a long way.  It does not take much but when you are dealing with fasteners that go into a blind hole (such as the screws holding the clicker spring in the photo) a little too much grease and you will be asking how to remove broken fasteners/repair stripped holes when you hydrolock.  You're doing fine keep us posted with updates! (and any questions!) - john

[Keta]

John is right, a bit less would work.

Too much grease in a screw hole could dammage the frame due to it not being "compressable", agan like John mentione above.  A bit on the threads is all needed.

I was fortunate enough to "inherit" a few rattle cans of Boeshield when my brother closed down his aviation repair station and use it rather than grease.  However grease is far more "cost effective".  I also have a shrinking supply of big $ anti-sieze we used on steam turbines I put on screws if I do not use grease.

Pitted chrome does not effect how a reel functions but it makes your reel look like shat.  Try to find a better "stock" handle/handle arm or get a aftermarket one.

[MolBasser]

Pitted chrome does not effect how a reel functions but it makes your reel look like shat.  Try to find a better "stock" handle/handle arm or get a aftermarket one.

It's not that bad and on the reel side of the handle, so it's not a huge concern to me. Just trying to figure out how to keep it from getting worse. Eventually I'll get another, but if like to use this one a while till I learn the reel and understand what handle would be best.

[MolBasser]

Odorless mineral spirits, #0 steel wool, toothbrush and the old parts are degreased and mostly de-shellaced.

I get the sleave and star on Monday so just in a holding pattern.

Gears are all in really good shape and not much wear on anything.  I don't think this reel got much use.