Super tuning reels

Started by Biggameaddict, April 22, 2012, 06:05:55 AM

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Biggameaddict

Hey guys first post here but I've talked with Alan quite a bit and he brought me here I used to fear rebuilding reels but after I first tried I got pleasure from doing the rebuild and then I start doing more of my reels so far I've done the average low pro baitcaster to the big 700 size round reels and I feel like a pro now, to tell you the truth I'm already running ads to buy sezied reels to rebuild and doing service on low profiles when I can. Soon you guys are gonna see my project reel Soon wanted to introduce myself before starting a topic.

So Hi

What I want to bring up is a topic that's been interesting me, super tuning reels. I know this is a widespread topic, some say let it wear down itself and them ad ceramic bearing and some say sand down friction points and upgrade to ceramics. No since this is a site big for reel repair I wante to bring it up here. This website helped me out http://www.bassboatmagazine.com/how-super-tune-t9173.html now how do you really supertune a reel? To all you pros out there how do you supertune your reel? What's a proper way to do it? I'm hoping everyone can jump in on this topic. This site is great I'm looking forward to helping people out and getting help myself here too thanks.

alantani

a drag upgrade and bearing service are usually all that is needed.  after that, modifications are usually aimed and improving castability.  oh, and welcome! 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Bryan Young

Aloha and Welcome.  Enjoy what all have to offer and we hope you will offer up from your experiences as well. :)
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

alantani

 bryan, i'm working a night shift.  that's my excuse for being up.  you should be in bed!   ;D
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

RWS

Super Tuning a reel is a lot of work and unless your casting baits under 1/4oz you will not see alot of improvement on baits over 1/2oz. Also you want to polish parts not remove any material, GOOD LUCK and ask away any ??? you may have.

Norcal Pescador

Welcome aboard! Anything helpful is always appreciated.
Rob

Measure once, cut twice. Or is it the other way around? ::)

"A good man knows his limits." - Inspector Harry Callahan, SFPD

Biggameaddict

Ok thanks guys so all you do is polish? No sanding or anything? That's pretty easy to do I guess thanks

alantani

going in with coarse grit sand paper just makes things worse.  a polishing rouge is probably best. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Keta

Most of my "hotrodding" is drag improvements/upgrades, better handles and frames.  I often de-tune reels to reduce freespool for trolling and bottom fishing.  I use a set of stones to polish surfaces I feel should be smooth.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Makule

I assume you are talking about conventional reels and not spinners.

You can use very fine (600 and up) grit sand paper on all shafts and the use rouge as suggested.  If the shaft is severely pitted, nothing will be of help.  Clean the inside of the pinion gear and polish the same way.  Lube the inside of the pinion with TSI 301.  Don't forget to clean out the BB well (remove the seals if they're on), and lube with TSI 301. 

You can also try putting a lot of the polishing rouge on the main and pinion gears and cranking them against each other for a while.  Don't go crazy about this as you don't want to wear the gears, only polish them.  Be sure to clean the rouge out of the entire reel very thoroughly before reassembly.  An alternative might be to use a soft wire wheel (has to be brass or SS) on the teeth (must go with the teeth).  Again, don't be too aggressive about this.  Lube with a good high pressure, corrosion protection, grease.

If you are super tuning for casting, you would want to look into adding magnets as well.
I used to be in a constant state of improvement.  Now I'm in a constant state of renovation.

Bryan Young

Quote from: alantani on April 22, 2012, 09:44:17 AM
bryan, i'm working a night shift.  that's my excuse for being up.  you should be in bed!   ;D
Work on reels and just took a break.  I've come to conclude that I HATE BEARING CUPS in Penn and Newell reels.  I've busted 6 bearing pullers and the bearings are still in the cup.   Maybe I should say, I HATE RUST.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Jim

Quote from: alantani on April 22, 2012, 11:34:48 PM
going in with coarse grit sand paper just makes things worse.  a polishing rouge is probably best. 

Brownells sells some lapping compounds that are ideal for this application, all the way down to 800 grit.

LTM

Welcome aboard,

You can go to www.chefknivestogo.com and they sell different grits of pastes, stones, etc used to finish knife edges, for polishing your parts.  I would stay away from the diamond pastes for they are very aggrsssive; I use diamond sometimes on my composite particle metal blades; its always best to error on the side of caution by using a less abrasive, abrasive when polishing/removing metal.  You'll find at this site that you can go completely crazy (like me) sharpening and polishing knives and metals.  You might want to look at the green or the black boron pastes. Dont forget that Japanese water stones and diamond (stay away from for your purposes) are for knife steels which may have a higher carbon content than the metals used in fishing reels.  Stainless steels have a Chromium content of 13% or greater to be considered stainless; its the Carbon content that (generally speaking) gives it toughness.  I say this in regards to using the correct media for polishing your surfaces in your reel.  Call or email Mark at chefknivestogo and ask him for the right product for your application.

Leo