TSI vs Yamalube corrosion protection in the extreeme

[Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B]

yes unbelievable! are both synthetic based or mineral based? i don't have both so 

[Jimmer]

Jim - Do you think we should forget the grease and just use TSI 301/321? Do you know if the TSI works as well on aluminum, brass. bronze, anodized alum and stainless as it does on iron? ( I'm assuming by iron you mean steel?)

[Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B]

answered my own question by googling...

[JGB]

I suspect you would get similar results with other types of metals. The only way to know for sure is to test it. I think that the results will be less severe for metals that do not form encrusting oxides.

Grease has it's place and that is for prevention of galling and wear under very high loads ( like pinion bearings and left side spool bearings).
Grease also does an excellent job of occupying space where we do not water to be. I believe that in the case of bearings that grease will fair better than the test indicates. This is because the rolling balls will continuously redistribute the grease and the undermining would be reduced or eliminated.

Wouldn't it be great if metal bearings could be treated with TSI and then cleaned and greased. Best of both worlds but TSI will exclude the grease just like it excludes rust.

Now here is a compromise: I mix 10-15% TSI321 with corrosionX and it blends with no problem (TSI seems to be compatible with oil).The TSI will migrate to the metal and the thicker CorrosionX will act as a very light grease. I use this for handle knobs. reel seat rivets and harness lugs to kill corrosion. Seems to work but is not quite 100%. My steel crimping tool will still get a few spots of rust over 6 months time and my steel needle nose (constantly getting submerged in salt water) will need re-lubing  every couple of months.


Jim N.

[redsetta]

Really enjoying this thread Jim - it's great info and much appreciated.
Thanks, Justin

[Bruce]

I would bet it has to do with the specific geravity of the oil/grease.
Tryit with some Kroil as well or vs the TSI.

[JGB]

Did a little experiment.

Tried to blend YamaLube and TSI. At first the TSI wanted to stay separate from the YL. Kind of like water and teflon.
After a little coaxing started to blend and did mix into a homogeneous mixture (grease is basically oil thickened with  particles).
Did the same with Lubriplate 101 (mineral oil and calcium) and it mixed right in. Lubbriplate 101 is almost a thick oil and has no additives for corrosion.

Repeated the nail test in sea water for the following samples containg 3 coated 1" steel finishing nails each.

1 YamaLube (new version) only
2 YamaLube (new version) + TSI
3 Lubriplate + TSI

I will report as the nails begins to show visual signs of corrosion (48 hours to 1 month).

Second test - applied mixtures of TSI and YamaLube and Lubriplate + TSI to open ball bearings.
We want to see if the grease separates and begins to slough off or remain homogeneous as a grease mixture in the bearings.
We do know that if you add TSI to already greased bearings the grease will separate off the metal but for this test we are starting off with a homogeneous mixture. Lets hope the results are promising.

Jim N.

[Bryan Young]

Jim,

Thanks.  I guess the comparisons could be endless.  Can you add pics of what you are doing?  Now it is soaking?  What is looks like when you first put it in the water?

Bryan

[JGB]

Here are several pic to look at. Results are not as promising as we would like


Initial samples with 6 month sample on the right
the rest are microscope pics after 12 hours.

The Yama Lube is not doing well and the grease blob shows that it is absorbing water.
The Yama Lube + TSI is doing better but still shows corrosion. interesting that some of the Yama Lube has sloughed off with no corrosion (TSI must have attached to the metal)
The Lubriplate 101 + TSI has no corrosion and still has a good even coat with no signs of water absorption. It is a mineral oil based grease so will degrade with time as it is basically refined Dino oil.

Jim N.

[Bryan Young]

Thanks Jim.  I used to have tons of tubes...I wonder if in the garage.  Wouldn't mind checking additional grease, such as Triple Guard, CorrosionX and Triple Guard blended with regular CorrosionX in comparision.

[Rockfish1]

Jim,
I'm no tribologist, but here's what I think might be happening from a chemistry point of view:  I'm thinking that when you mix the Yammie grease and the TSI 301 that the initial failure to mix well followed by finally going together is because the quick flashing solvent in the TSI 301 doesn't mix well, then evaporats leaving the synthetic oil part and once the solvent is gone they appear to mix.  Then I think that you're getting the spotty corrosion because they didn't actually go together chemically (one isn't "miscible" in the other) and you get some spots on the nail where the TSI is predominant and some where it's the Yammie grease.  Got no proof - but it sure makes sense to me.

A couple of comments on the grease:  The Yammie grease is made by Chemtool in IL.....so is Lubrimatic brand "marine and wheel bearing" grease - BUT - the Yammie grease is an aluminum complex base and the Lubrimatic is a calcium sulfonate base.  According to all I can find out the aluminum complexes are pretty good, but cheaper and the calcium complexes are better yet but more expensive in terms of making a water insoluble corrosion resistant grease.  I though initially that maybe the blue grease that Alan hates because it's so sticky might be Lubrimatic, but upon looking closer the Lubrimatic is a "blue green" and the Yammie is all blue.  Now I'm thinking that maybe the grease he dislikes for being hard to remove is Triple Guard, which is pretty blue and sticks like glue to things I use it on like the prop shaft in an outboard....it's still there at the end of the season after being in and out of salty water all year.  As best I can tell Triple Guard is an aluminum complex base like the Yammie....but it seems heavier viscosity to me....it appears to be made by Bel-Ray in NJ.  As somebody noted - none of these things are "original" - they're all made by people who make a bunch of different grease/oil products and label them for others.

Also - to add another idea into the mix: I've been playing with Mercury Corrosion Guard......a spray on anti-corrosion coating that goes on wet and dries to a film sort of the way Boeshield does but sticky and dust-grabbing liek Boeshield.  It's made to protect outboard and outdrive components from corrosion.  I've sprayed a mower deck that had some rust spots on it with the stuff and been using it since last Summer at my place on the water - the film is still there and any rust action appears to be stopped dead.  It's safe for paints and from what I can see - plastic/rubber.  I'm thinking it might make a great anti-corrosion coating that resists dust and particle attachment in the same way that I think Eezox might.  I'm trying Eezox on reel internals and foot rivets now.........haven't gotten around to the Merc stuff in a reel yet. 

[Rockfish1]

Oops.........meant to say that the Corrosion Guard film is NOT so tacky when dry like Boeshield is.......apparently my fingers are too big and can't type 

[alantani]

we need a grease made up of tsi.

[Rockfish1]

Great idea!  Maybe as much as you and Jim have helped them sell.....they'd take such a suggestion seriously from you?  If they could get the 321 into a super duper corrosion resistant soap base like calcium sulfonate it might the the best #@* ever invented!  You da MAN!

[suitekids]

Great idea!  Maybe as much as you and Jim have helped them sell.....they'd take such a suggestion seriously from you?  If they could get the 321 into a super duper corrosion resistant soap base like calcium sulfonate it might the the best #@* ever invented!  You da MAN!

Selling is good! shipping and getting are frustrating experience