Shimano Biomaster 6000

[Danhans]

Hi all, i have learned a lot about reel servicing since i joined this board..
this is my first attempt on a tutorial..english is not my first language please bear with me 
to Alan or other moderators, please edit my post if there are any errors especially in part's name..thanks!!

im not sure if biomaster is commonly used in the US but in my country it is considered common..

let's start (feel free correct me if i'm wrong)



remove the spool assembly


clean up the bottom of the spool and put some grease to the clicker


clean up the drag stack *(should i grease this type drag of washers?)


remove everything in the spool shaft and put them in a correct order




now remove the rotor nut


clean up under the rotor


now remove the bail arm and bail arm's cover..careful with the spring..


clean up everything with contact cleaner..


also clean and apply a thin layer of grease to both sides of the rotor


also to the cover  * (i'm not sure if i have to do this..please don't laugh.. )


remove the line roller from the bail arm..notice some salt sticking on the roller and the roller socket..






everything is cleaned and greased up and ready to put them back together..






i called it "a helping hand"..it really makes your work much easier..


now grease up every holes and screws, put the bail arm assembly and the covers back in..you're done with the rotor!




move on the body..remove just the 3 chrome screws and leave the remaining 2 black screws..
you should be able to take out the whole anti reverse assembly without dismantle it..


here's how it looks like underneath the anti-reverse assembly..


now remove the remaining 2 black screws to open up the anti reverse assembly..


apply some oil and put the cover back up..
the cover won't fit if it's not in a correct position..just spin it around until it sits nicely
on top of the assembly..




now put back the black screws and set it aside..there are 6 holes on the cover..
it's easy to identify which hole belongs to the black screw and which belongs to the chrome..
just look through the holes, if you can see through to the bottom, it belongs to the chrome screw..
if not it is for the black screw..




pull out the anti-reverse sleeve


follow by pinion gear and pinion bearing


remove the rear shield screw. the shield will come off easily.




clean up the excess oil and remove every remaining screws..




remove the cover and you can see main gear..


clean, paint a thin coat of grease and set it aside.


remove the main gear and clean it up with carb cleaner or contact cleaner..


and apply a coat of grease..also packed all the bearing with grease exactly as Alan did..and set aside..
(sorry, just realized i did not take pictures when i pack those bearings with grease..i should be punished)


remove the first pin


follow by a metal plate that holds the worm shaft..


now remove the pin on the right


there is a plastic bushing under the worm shaft..be careful, don't loose it..


now you can pull out the worm shaft and the spool shaft..




in order to remove the worm shaft gear, you have to first remove the anti-reverse on/off switch..
first, remove the screw..


pull out the pin and spring..don't let the spring take flight..


now you have the dismantled the anti-reverse switch..


the reel cover and worm shaft gear really needs to be cleaned...


now we have everything cleaned up..






apply a coat of grease to the cover


grease up the worm shaft gear and put it back in..




install the anti-reverse switch (it's a bit tricky here)


put the worm shaft back in..make sure it fit properly with the gear..


if the worm shaft is properly installed the bushing should also fit nicely..


grease up the spool shaft and slide it in..


slide in the pin (right)


install the metal plate on the bottom of the worm shaft first then the left side pin..


put the main geat back in


apply some grease in the screw holes and tighten up all screws..


slide the pinion gear in..


then the pinion bearing


then anti-reverse sleeve


now for the anti-reverse assembly..check the position..make sure the screws are align with the screw holes on the body
and the anti-reverse assembly sits nicely on top..


slide the rotor in, paint some grease to the thread and bolt it down..


slide in the clicker gear, spool bearing and washers..


put the spool back in and we're done!


*please confirm if it's right or wrong

[paal]

Nice and thorough tutorial!
Nice reel too. It looks a lot like my old and faitful Super GT FA, just more bearings and a nicer handle. Was there a ball bearing in the line roller too, or a bushing?
Greetings from Norway!
Paal

Edit: another question: looks from the pictures that the main gear was instralled "dry" (apart from grease on the teeth)? It is very important to grease these gears well, they can corrode quite quickly if/when water gets inside.

[Bryan Young]

Nice Dan.  Not worry about the parts names, pictures are worth a thousand words. 

Very nice.  Thanks for sharings.  You may want to change those drags out sometimes to greased carbon fiber if you are targeting fast running fish.

[paal]

Nice Dan.  Not worry about the parts names, pictures are worth a thousand words. 

Very nice.  Thanks for sharings.  You may want to change those drags out sometimes to greased carbon fiber if you are targeting fast running fish.

Good point, although the Shimano felt washers will put up to more than I originally thought. I fought some ~15 lbs yellowfin tuna with a reel almost identical to this. The spool would get really hot on those long runs. The drag was still smooth afterwards, but I disassembled the reel to check. The felt washers had clearly taken a beating, a mix of fibre and grease had been "pressure boiled" out of the drag stack. You can see the "post YFT spool" and the unused spare spool below.

Even though the drag was still smooth, I replaced the washers with some HT-100 that I got from Alan

[Danhans]

Nice and thorough tutorial!
Nice reel too. It looks a lot like my old and faitful Super GT FA, just more bearings and a nicer handle. Was there a ball bearing in the line roller too, or a bushing?
Greetings from Norway!
Paal

Edit: another question: looks from the pictures that the main gear was instralled "dry" (apart from grease on the teeth)? It is very important to grease these gears well, they can corrode quite quickly if/when water gets inside.

thanks Paal, you are absolutely right..it's my bad..i will open up the reel again and apply a coat of grease to the main gear..
there is no ball bearing in the line roller..just a bushing..
dan

[Danhans]

Nice Dan.  Not worry about the parts names, pictures are worth a thousand words. 

Very nice.  Thanks for sharings.  You may want to change those drags out sometimes to greased carbon fiber if you are targeting fast running fish.

yes Bryan, yes i am using this reel mainly for light jigging for various species of trevally, cobia, queenfish etc..i will look forward into upgrading the drag washers to greased carbon fiber..thanks for the advice!
dan

[redsetta]

Well done Dan.
Looks like you're getting into the swing of it!
Cheers, Justin

[basto]

Well done! I bought a Saragosa 1400 recently that also has a worm gear line leveler. This system does a better job of putting the line on the spool than all my other reels that have the traverse cam system. I like.
cheers
Basto

[wallacewt]

i could follow your tutorial and get the job done i reckon,gd stuff

[alantani]

definitely worth a wrench!   

[Danhans]

thank you so much Alan..cant wait! 

[alantani]

you need a bearing packer, too, but i am all out and it could be months before i get anymore.   

[Danhans]

you are a very generous man Alan..a wrench is good enough for me.. 
i've just emailed you and update about some stuff i wanted to order from you..

[Alto Mare]

Very nice job Danhans, I would have never thought it was your first time.
You will like Alans wrench, but sorry , mine looks the best out of all of them :
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4046.0
Keep them coming.
Sal

[Danhans]

now that is the best looking wrench Sal!