Boss 870

[Rare]

I bought this reel used. This was the first accurate I own so right off the back there was a small issue when i was 150miles away  . Since it was going fishing with me that day, I just went with it at a good price. The reel over all is great. When i opened it up it had already grease the drags,  grease on bearings oil etc. I wiped and cleaned the drags and just put some cal grease on them. Anyways...

The problem I found at first was when you engage in full drag/over drive after pushing the black button. The problem at the time was when backing out of full drag (pulling the lever arm back) it will we limp had no pressure, but it will still have pressure on the reel. In order to get control you move it back on the off position. After that you had full control of the drag again. It only happened when you will engage in full drag when the lever arm was past the black button.

This being a boat reel, I didn't get around to it like I do my avets since I use the avets to cast when fishing in the keys bridges/piers and these are my all around reels here. I had some time yesterday (kind of forgot about it) but the reel was now acting a bit different than before. This time even when you had "full drag" & tried backing the lever arm back down it goes just a bit off the black button and stops there. Doesnt move from there. You will have to pull the drag control knob up and that would enable you to back down from full to off again.

It only happens when the drag is ""fully engage."" Other than that it fine unless you need that extra drag, click on the black button and fully engage on the drag. I took it all apart and inspected the best I could. This really had me bother and all I can think of is this part side plate nut. (Pic below)

Any clue on what it might be? IF I need a new sideplate from the 870 that is fine is about $100 () I will have them put the anti-reverse bearing in before shipping it out. I will hate to think it something so simple before going that extra mile.

Is it the side plate nut not letting the tension cam track sits back down after it is full engage?  If all taken apart the tension cam doesn't not move where it is suppose to be sitting in. It sits snug and tight on that part of the side plate. I believe that the person who had it before me must have tried to changed the drag pressures when it was fully engage cause that nut on the sideplate to look like that, That nut still holds tight like I said before if you were to put the tension cam/preset knob on it with high tolerance – doesn't move.

[alantani]

that looks painful...... 

i do not think there will be a way to rebuild the damaged aluminum.  a new side plate may be your best option.  ask them for a used side plate first, though.  the reason is that many are being upgraded to the "dawg."  that might be an option for you as well.  call and see if they can help you.  alan

[Rare]

Thanks for the tip, Alan. So, pretty much the side plate is the issue that doesnt let me back off when on full drag. Pfff...

A quick question; the Boss part #53 #54 & #55. Do you need 3 of these  adj. washer or 1? I see I have only one on mine, but will make sense to have one and not 3. Just wanted to double check on that.
(#53 .015) (#54 .020) & part (#55.025) Adj. Washer

That 2nd pic you can take that down... I was just taking off the sealed bearing from the Penn torque to get a smooth reel. Them seals are good for no water getting in but suck for jigging. It's better now....

It's been a bad month cause I cant find the 5:1 newell bearing I bought 2+ years ago to change the beaten up gears in the 505 HS...   I love this reel

[alantani]

i won't be able to look at the schematics until later.  guys, can anyone take a look?

[redsetta]

G'day Rare,
All three are required, with the thinnest in the middle and the thickest against the clicker drag cap, ie #54 (.020) / #53 (.015) / #55 (.025).
Hope that's of some assistance.
Good luck, Justin

[Rare]

Thanks, redsetta!

Wondering if that's the problem! Since these are the preset drag adjustment washer.... that would make perfect sense of it. I will call in on Monday and have them send me the washer and see if that takes care of the problem and report back when done. 

[Rare]

The quote at the bottom came from Matt @ accurate. I pm'ed him and he got back to me. Before Matt replied back to me I called accurate at lunch time and spoke Jose. (Awesome dude) He nailed what I thought at first and what Alan said as well about the sideplate. I will have them put in the 2 AR bearing as well. Hell if I wanna do that..lol Anyways hope this will help someone in the future...Thanks again guys 

Hello Nelson,

I check out the pictures in your post and you definitely need a new sideplate. The hex where the preset sits is completely rounded out.

As far as parts 53, 54 & 55, you only need as many to set the drag window where you like it. I think we typically use one thicker one or maybe a combination of two thicknesses to get the drag where we like it.

Feel free to call in your parts order when you are ready. We will have to do some searching for that sideplate as it is an older model.

Thanks and Fish Hard

[redsetta]

Nice work - glad you got it sorted.
Cheers, Justin

[Robert Janssen]

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but i found myself thinking about it the other day, for no particular reason.

It seems that this happens occasionally:

...you definitely need a new sideplate. The hex where the preset sits is completely rounded out.

...I have this reel apart right now..and it doesnt look good. The clutch leverhandle post hex head is completely buggered all the way around. All six corners have been rounded off...

...The hex that the preset sits on rounded off as I've seen elsewhere here...

...and it seems to me that it shouldn't, since a new sideplate is apparently a $100 item, and it is just so sucky to pay that for such a small fault..

So i was thinking, that there is an alternative, for those who have the means. Somewhat compulsively, i thought i would put it up.



Hop on over to the lathe and poke a suitable bar in the chuck. Could be stainless, titanium, gold, brass, adamantium, whatever.



Turn down to the proper length and suitable diameter. Poke a hole in it too.



Move over to the mill and rotab...



Zip, zip, zip... Now its a hexagon.



Drill and countersink a couple of holes...


...and after parting it off, it looks like this.



And, after having done a few similar moves to the original sideplate, (use the lathe to remove the remnants of the original hex, and maybe add a little counterbore. Drill and tap for screws and so on) it can be attached to the original sideplate, like the mockup in the pic.

Easy as pie, i say. Easy as pie for you to say, you say. And yes, i realize that not everyone has the luxury of such equipment, but some of you do, or know someone who does.

Or, maybe this could be achieved with slightly less refined methods. Hexagonal bars can be found a little here and there around the house. Maybe something from a hex key could be adapted, for example. A piece cut off, annealed, and a hole drilled through the center, another tight hole drilled through the sideplate, and the piece pressed in with some loctite for example. Or maybe a tall nut from the hardware store. (why didn't Accurate do this to begin with?)

Just thinking. I don't even have an Accurate and don't really care what they do. I just think it sucks to need to buy a new sideplate for such a little fault. Do as you like.

.

[Irish Jigger]

Nice work Doc. I can see you getting some side plates to refurbish.

[Alto Mare]

Doc, could I fly over and just sit back and watch you work? I promise I won't bother you .
Always amazing stuff, thanks for sharing.
Sal

[Bryan Young]

Doc, may I join Sal?  I'll just watch, learn, but more than not, just simply amazed.

[redsetta]

Always amazing stuff, thanks for sharing.

x2 - thanks.

[Ron Jones]

If the sideplate has enough meat you could run the round section through the sideplate and then stake it to the sideplate through the hole. That would aleviate the two extra screws.

Really nice work dock.
Ron