Magda Pro 15/20 DX

[Ripp]

Hi, all.

I'm new to this, so please bear with me.

I've recently finished my first, yearly, reel servicing on two used 15's assisted by schematics and parts lists from the boxes of two new 15's, also used as fresh examples to guide proper re-assembly.  I'm supprised that the schematics are not accurate, though, I've read Alan's remark that this is sometimes the case.  I cleaned everything thoroughly, as recommended by someone, in preparation to use Quantum hot sauce grease and oil.  I was not aggressive cleaning and lubing the bearings and paid little attention to the drag washers. I have, subsequently, discovered this forum and plan to give it another try.  I intend to break down the two new 15's and tune them, as well.
In the process, I discovered a "stud" in place of a screw.

So, first question...Where can I reliably order parts?  Sounds like Okuma is trouble, as is Mike's.  Tuna's for drag washers.  Screws and real little washers?

Also, I have three 20's, for slightly larger fish, which seem, again, according to the schematics and parts lists, clones of the 15's, with, roughly, 71 out of 81 parts in common.  In a effort to discover why the 20's feel "glitchier" than the 15's, I disassembled them, as well.  Much to my supprise, the metal hold plate had been "upgraded" to a circular plastic plate, supporting an additional plastic bushing on the handle side of the spool.  Also, the drive gear shaft assembly and its clutch slider is different, as well, and seems to be the source of the "glitchy" behavior.  Swapping comparible parts from a 15 to a 20 was not a perfict fit as expected.  There seemed to be some binding.

Second question...Is this "downgrade" doable?   And, where can I get parts?


Mike in Oregon City

[Jimmer]

Tuna's is great for Okuma parts also, they probably have what you need in stock and ship quickly. Call or send an email to Tom or Pauly - they should be able to give you some insight on your reel troubles, they are an authorized Okuma repair shop. - Good luck - Jimmer

[Ripp]

Thanks Jimmer,

This morning, I swapped the entire handle side assembly from a 15 to a 20.  It seems to work fine.  The downside is the loss of support of the handle-side, spool bushing from the now absent plastic hold plate.

More to come.

Mike in Oregon City.

[Jimmer]

You should be able to swap the plasitc bearing support also, I've never done a 15/20, retroed quite a few 30's, 45's and 55's. I think that combination plastic plate reduced the number of metal parts and made factory assembly faster. The AR dog post support is a weak link on these, not so bad on the 30's and 45's but way too small on the 55's. If you don't have that plastic bearing support plate check Tuna's. Don't forget to order the special screws for it - Jimmer

[Ripp]

Here's the latest. (I've now disassembled and reassembled 15's and 20's, including swapping parts and comparing the inner workings, so many times, I no longer have to keep careful track of what goes where or refer to schematics during reassembly).

In order to retrofit the 15's auto trip mechanism into a 20 with a plastic hold plate, you seem to have two courses of action.

-Replace the 20's plastic hold plate, drive gear shaft assembly and clutch slider with comparable parts from a 15 (don't forget the little spring for the clutch slider), or just swap an entire handle side assembly.  The downside, as I've previously mentioned, is the loss of bushing support for the handle side spool bushing.

-Modify the under side of the 20's plastic hold plate by removing the little plastic studs that guild its un-sprung clutch slider in order for the 15's sprung clutch slider to wobble freely just as the metal hold plate allows.  The thickness of the metal and plastic hold plates appear the same (sorry...no micrometer, yet) so be very careful when removing plastic.  Also, you might end up with a rough plastic surface.  In short, you need to make the inner surface of the plastic hold plate as smooth and featureless as a metal hold plate.  Then, replace the 20's drive gear shaft assembly and clutch slider with those from a 15, as above.   This maintains the 20's extra bushing support while employing the 15's smoother auto trip mechanism.

Now to gather up the nerve to carve up an otherwise perfectly good fishing reel.  Gulp! Think I'll order spares first.

Mike in Oregon City

PS   Does this thing have spell check?

[Ripp]

So. 

Is that it?  I'm going it alone?  214 views and only 4 replies, half of which are from me?  (By the way, thanks, again, Jimmer, for your reply).  No more sage advice than that?  "No, Mike no.  Don't do it.  You'll ruin your reels".  or  "Sounds like you're on the right track, Mike"  or  "I've been modifying reels since the Boor Wars but what you're doing is truly inspirational".  (I like this one the best).  "Seems that you over looked the tutorial on the Magda pro series.  Here's where you can find it...."

Alan's Convector tutorial was very helpful, but I can't believe I'm the first to identify what I think is a design flaw and what might be possible to remedy it.  Look for my up coming web site "Retro your Reels", moderated by Barbara Walters.

I'm waiting.

Mike in Oregon City

(Great!  Now I've got 5 replies).

[Jimmer]

I would disable the auto trip mechanism by grinding off the little peg on the AR spur that actuates it. The auto trip puts a lot of side force on the gears, causing premature wear on the pinion. Forgot to mention that in the previous post. If you don't have the white clicker springs in your reels it's a good upgrade and cheap from Tuna's. I would contact them and see if they have any more recommendations for these, they work on a ton of them. - Jimmer

[alantani]

mike, i know it's a hassle, but photos in this case are really helpful.  for parts, okuma has been generally responsive once you can talk to someone.  the problem is that there are only 20 guys in a building the size of a home depot or a lowe's.  and more then any other company, i have found them genuinely interested in customer feedback. 

[Ripp]

Jimmer,

Ooooohhh.  Disable the auto trip mechanism?  Let's be real clear about this.  I'm using terminology from the Okuma parts list, like...screw and washer.  (little joke).  It seems I have to throw in some of my own, but it should be discriptive.  Also, I have a pet peeve concerning abriviations (sorry).

I'm assuming AR refers to Anti Reverse, the function of the Anti-Reverse Pawl and the cog wheel on the end of the Drive Gear Shaft.  These are the same cogs, in the 15's, that also actuate the clutch slider and allow you to shift from free wheeling spool to driven spool by turning the Handle (Auto Trip).  On the 20's, there is a seperate tab on the face of the cog wheel that does the same.  You're saying to remove that tab, on the 20's, and eliminate the ability to Auto-Trip by turning the Handle.  

This could be big.  I'll have to consult with my wife.  After all, they're her reels...yes...all of them.

Thanks again.  I'll keep you posted.  

Mike in Oregon City


Pictures?  Rats!!!

[Bryan Young]

I just don't know.  I've studied the schematics and am wondering if there was a different version as the schematics that I looked at does not have the auto trip feature.  did schematics come with the reel?  if so, can you scan it and post it?

[Jimmer]

I apoligise, Ive tried to tell you what I know from working on the 30 and larger size reels. I didn't go to the Okuma website and maybe don't have the correct terminology for each and every part, there are people way more knowledgable than me about these, just trying to help any way I can If you have a specicfic question on something, maybe post a picture .

[Ripp]

Jimmer,

No apology necessary, my friend.  I pretty sure you're being very clear in your descriptions and we're communicating well.  I'm sure I'm being picky (ofter useful but annoying character flaw).  Thanks ever so much for your assistance.  My fisherman wife prefers to have an improved auto trip so I'm forging ahead.  Besides, I've already ordered parts.  I'm keeping your suggestion to disable auto trip as a backup plan.

Bryan,

The schematics in the box of the new 15's were fairly representative of the internal workings of the reels, though, some variations can be found on the schematics.  The only schematics I've found for the 20's were on line from various sources, including Okuma's website, and do not represent what I am assuming are more recent upgrades (which I don't like).

I've got to figure out how to post pictures.  Stay tuned.

Mike in Oregon City

[Ripp]

Hi, all,

    Parts and supplies trickling in.  Thanks to everyone on this forum for info, comments, links, tutorials,...you name it.  Especially to you, Alan, for making this forum possible and for turning simple reel maintenance into a budding reel tuning obsession.  Thanks, I think?

    I finally spoke to Daniel at the Okuma parts counter.  Very helpful and non-judgmental.  (All too often, in a situation such as that, I often hear the comment, "Why do you want to do that?").  In the process of ordering a few remaining, hard to find parts to "retro" my 20's, Daniel mentioned that the schematics available on line for the 20's, as I suspected, represent the early version, essentially a 15 with a longer spool, hence so many parts in common.  He offered to send me a copy of the updated schematics for the 20, with parts numbers, along with my ordered parts.  I hope to post that schematic here, some how.  Suggestions welcome.

Mike in Oregon City